Coupe 5MT swap questions

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission Mods' started by Student005, Feb 5, 2018.

  1. Student005

    Student005 Active Member

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    Okay cool so you were able to drill from inside the footwell or you did it from the engine bay? I imagine it would be a royal pain to do it from the cabin footwell.


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  2. BlkCurrantKord

    BlkCurrantKord Super Moderator

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    Footwell. You can't get to it from the engine side. Get a drill bit and hole saw meant for metal.
     
  3. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Did it from the cabin footwell. Layed in the most awkward position ever, turned on my back and use a punch, made a small hole and actually used a pair of wire cutters to cut out the hole. That wasnt easy but power tools can get you in trouble quick. So after I did that I smoothed it out with a drill bit. I didnt have access to the "proper tools" at the time. You can not get to the spot from the engine bay. Its basically between the shock tower and firewall. You can barely fit your hand in there let alone a drill. My advice? Take out the seat and make your life easier. Dont replace the brake pedal because its a ***** to get the top bolt back in. Instead remove the pad and cut the pedal down. Buy a generic manual clutch pedal pad and use it as a stencil. Other than that the rest is fairly easy. Just source the parts and be angry when you cut into the firewall. And follow the premade stamp in the firewall the best you can. If you have any other questions let me know. I did this swap a few times. I did my first on my accord.
     
  4. Student005

    Student005 Active Member

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    Okay perfect. All that mechanical stuff should be easy the difficulty, I presume, lies in the wiring. Did you have to do any wiring for cruise control? I know I’ll have to do stuff for the vss and stuff like that but I haven’t read anything about the cruise control


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  5. Student005

    Student005 Active Member

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    Okay so you’re saying to leave my current brake and accelerator pedal and just add a clutch pedal? Because I believe the person I’m getting everything from has the whole assembly from whatever car they took it from. And okay I’ll be sure to ask if I have any more questions I appreciate all the help y’all.


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  6. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    Trust me youll want to wizard wheel the brake pedal. It took me like 3 hours to get the brake pedal back on. You need to get the firewall nuts off first which is easy. There is a hidden one that attaches to the steering column that you can only get to with a $hit ton of extensions and a swivel socket.
     
  7. BlkCurrantKord

    BlkCurrantKord Super Moderator

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    I deleted cruise control

    I just swapped assemblies. Didn't think it was THAT bad.
     
  8. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    What did you use for the top bolt?
     
  9. Student005

    Student005 Active Member

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    Okay well I’m trying to make this as clean as possible so I’m probably gonna try to get the assembly on and off and if that doesn’t work I have some power tools I can use to do the job. As far as cruise control goes I know my old EF that was manual swapped had a clutch switch (similar to brake switch) that had to have the cc wires into it or else if you hit the clutch in cc it would rev up because cc would hold the accelerator since it doesn’t recognize the clutch. Which I can think of why one would hit the clutch while in cruise but hey *♂️


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  10. capsidx

    capsidx Well-Known Member

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    You'll also need a manual ecu to get full revs which means you'll need the key that goes with it unless you plan on getting a chipped ecu.
     

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