DIY - 98-02 Accord Valve Adjustment (4 cylinder, VTEC specific)

Discussion in 'DIY - Do It Yourself Forum' started by 6THGEN_AI4, Mar 1, 2007.

  1. 6THGEN_AI4

    6THGEN_AI4 Guest

    Well since I want to do this to my car I search and I found this DIY.
    I hope it helps.:D

    1998 Accord Valve Adjustment (4 cylinder, VTEC specific)

    The following information will help you adjust the valves on your 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder VTEC engine. Valves should be adjusted every 30-60K, depending on how noisy your specific car is. This procedure will also work with most other Honda engines in which valve adjustments are required. The major difference between engines is valve clearance. Obtain the correct clearance values before attempting this procedure. I also must, for the sake of anyone who tried this and shouldn't have, claim no responsibility for your use of this procedure. You use it and screw up your car, it's your problem. I simply place this here for a reference. It is simple enough though that most anyone can do it without going back to the dealer. Warning - your back may hurt after leaning over the engine for a while.... This procedure should take you about 1-1.5 hours the first time.


    Be careful during this procedure. Work on the engine only when it is completely cool. Do not get oil on the timing belt or other belts.

    Valve clearances for the 1998 Honda Accord VTEC 4 cylinder engine:
    Intake (closest to cabin): 0.24mm to 0.28mm
    Exhaust (closest to front of car): 0.28mm to 0.32mm

    Tools required to adjust valves:
    • Feeler gauges
    • 19mm socket
    • 10mm socket
    • socket wrench
    • 10mm box/open wrench
    • standard screwdriver
    • medium pliers
    • various socket extensions (I used 12" and 3")
    • universal (swivel) socket extension (optional, but makes life easier)
    Steps for adjusting valves:
    • Turn the front wheels all the way to the left.
    • Remove all plug wires from the plugs and move them out of the way of the valve cover.
    • Disconnect the 2 hoses from the valve cover and move out of the way of the cover (pliers can be used to loosen clamps).
    • Loosen the five 10mm bolts until they are loose in the cover. They do not have to be fully removed from the cover - they are very long, but only threaded a little ways.
    • Once all the bolts are loose, the valve cover can be pulled off. Slowly pull it off, helping any areas where the valve cover gasket is sticking.
    • With the cover off, wipe off any oil residue from the inside of the valve cover.
    • Remove the dipstick and tube by removing the single 10mm bolt.
    • Pull the wiring harness from the timing belt upper cover (it's just tucked in there).
    • Remove the timing belt upper cover by removing the two 10mm bolts from it. You will likely need a swivel (universal) joint to get at them. The timing belt should now be visible, as well as the head. Check your timing belt while you're in there and make sure it looks good (no cracks). Also, inspect the drive belts while you are inspecting that area anyway.
    • In the wheel well, you'll see a small opening. Insert the 19mm socket on an extension through that hole and connect with the crankshaft bolt behind it.
    • Crank the bolt counter clockwise until the arrow on the timing sprocket (at top of timing belt) has the word "UP" facing upwards and in the full upright position.
    • At this point the number 1 cylinder valves (intake AND exhaust) can be adjusted (cylinder 1 will be at Top Dead Center). This is the cylinder closest to the sprocket. You'll notice a "1" on the head, right near that sprocket.
    • Check the valve clearances with the correct feeler gauges. The gauge should drag along between the valve and its associated lifter. If it doesn't fit or if it easily fits and slides around without any drag, adjustment is required. Do not apply pressure on the top of the valves at all, because it screws up the measurement. The place to check is right above the valve. Wiggle the arm above the valve a little and you'll see which parts don't move. Test with the feeler gauges right above that!
    • If adjustments are required, take the 10mm box wrench and loosen the nut on the top of the valve. Adjust the clearance then by adjusting the standard screw. It doesn't take much, so don't move it too far. When the adjustment is complete, hold the screw in place and tighten the nut. Re-check with the feeler gauge to ensure your adjustment is correct.
    • When the first cylinder is complete, turn the crankshaft 90 degrees counterclockwise. The "UP" should now be facing the front of the car. Adjust the valves for cylinder 3 (note, from front of car, cylinders look like 4-3-2-1).
    • When cylinder 3 is complete, turn the crankshaft 90 degrees counterclockwise again. "UP" should be at the bottom of the sprocket. Adjust the valves for cylinder 4.
    • When cylinder 4 is complete, turn the crankshaft 90 degrees counterclockwise again. "UP" should be facing the passenger compartment. Adjust the valves for cylinder 2.
    • Re-assemble car (reverse of first 9 steps). Remove all tools from the engine bay. Replace the valve cover gasket only if leaking or broken. The rubber gaskets on Honda valve covers are reuseable.
    • Start the engine and listen for
    DIY FOUND HERE
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 18, 2007
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  2. FallenAngelHIM

    FallenAngelHIM Well-Known Member

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    yeah sure, that doesn't sound hard....
     
  3. 6THGEN_AI4

    6THGEN_AI4 Guest

    ^^^ Well is kinda hard for us that we're not mechanics but if it says that is 1.5 hours for first timers....I don't know shouln't be that hard.
     
  4. Bearcat

    Bearcat Well-Known Member

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    :peace: That is an awesome write up. Better than the one in the Haynes manual which tells nothing about the removing the dispict before removing the tb cover and also the place in the wheel well to turn the crankshaft.
     
  5. AFAccord

    AFAccord Well-Known Member

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    You'll need access to the cam gear, so take the top cover off...

    [​IMG]


    Here's where you start...

    [​IMG]


    Beginning at TDC...

    [​IMG]


    Tightening it down to the right 'feel'...

    [​IMG]


    Now that it 'feels' right, holding it in place while tightening the 10mm nut to lock it in.

    [​IMG]


    After turning the crank 90 degrees, cyl 3 gets adjusted...

    [​IMG]

    Remember to hold the screw in place while tightening the 10mm nut...

    [​IMG]


    Simple stuff guys. Hope the pics help. :thumbsup:
     
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  6. Bearcat

    Bearcat Well-Known Member

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    I love doing this maintenance. It really improved my car and it cost nothing except the initial $5 feeler guage.
     
  7. hotaccord243

    hotaccord243 Well-Known Member

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    great write up!
    but one thing i had a question on, was the factory specs for a 98-02 accord vtec 4cyl motor, in the books says intake-.010 and exhaust .012 in,

    and you say .024-.028 for intake and .028 and .032 for exhaust but in the picture you can see the .010 feeler gauge in your hand

    just thought id clear that up, cause i got a little confused there....
     
  8. AFAccord

    AFAccord Well-Known Member

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    Actually, they are My photos, just in the OP's write-up. I don't recall off the top of my head, but if I was using that .012, then your specs must be correct. :thumbsup:
     
  9. mxjoe388

    mxjoe388 Well-Known Member

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    ok so i have to do an adjustment but i was woundering if these distances r 4 the ulev vtec?or not?
     
  10. AFAccord

    AFAccord Well-Known Member

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    Same for all 4cyl motors.

    Also, after looking over the FSM, i've found an answer to the mix-up above.

    Clearance is as follows:

    Intake 0.26mm (0.010in) +/- 0.02mm (0.0008in)
    Exhaust 0.30mm (0.012in) +/- 0.02mm (0.0008in)
     

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