AFAccord
Well-Known Member
I've used Eibach Pro-kit springs on my Accord for a very long time now, and just recently switched to Eibach Sportline springs. Both springs are notorious for giving some model Accords the "boat look" where the front sits higher than the rear. This is because Eibach lowering springs lower the car the same both front and rear, which sets the car unevenly front to back. There are a handful of theories about why our cars sit this way, but I won't go into all that.
This weekend I became tired enough of this look, that I became so motivated as to pull my suspension apart and see what could be done. :scared: Now some people say to just install some aftermarket struts (which sometimes included a lower spring perch) to solve the issue, but as we all know, Pro-kit springs work wonderfully with stock struts, so why spend the extra money when you were just going for a little lower stance while maintaining ride quality?!
I've figured out a way (NON-destructive to the spring or shock) to lower the front of our accords just slightly, to correct the boat look, so often achieved with lowering springs, more specifically Eibach springs.
So on to the DIY...
Tools Required:
- (1) 12mm Socket
- (1) 14mm Socket
- (2) 17mm Sockets, preferably one deep socket
- (2) Ratchets
- (1) Die Grinder (straight type, like a large dremel tool. A high-speed drill can also be used)
- (1) Friend who is willing to help you for a total of maybe five minutes.
- (1+) Metal grinding/shaping bits (the more the merrier. mine didn't wear down, but they broke loose from the shaft)
Note: All sockets can be substituted with wrenches of the same size, though it requires more elbow grease. The grinder needs to be a straight type, not angled. Pic for reference. These can be had for $30 at Harbor Freight Tools. The bits I used were about 1.5" in diameter, and 1/4" thick.
Parts Required:
- (1) None
Process:
1. Loosen the lugs on the front wheels and jack the front of the car up. You can either do one side at a time or both sides at the same time if you can lift the entire front up. Remember to be safe. Rest the car on jack stands and chock the back wheels.
2. Lift the hood, and remove two of the three 14mm nuts from the top of each front strut perch.
3. Loosen the the one remaining 14mm nut on each perch so that it will allow the strut to move freely in the next steps. Be sure it is still threaded enough to hold the strut/spring from falling out of place later.
4. Remove the two remaining 12mm nuts from the perch.
5. Remove the front wheel(s) from the car.
6. Remove the bolt at the bottom of the strut fork using one 17mm socket on the bolt head, and a deep socket 17mm or wrench on the nut side. Pushing down on the suspension while twisting the bold makes it easier to pull out once you have unthreaded it completely.
7. Remove the bolt on the back side of the strut that holds the fork to the strut using a 14mm socket.
8. At this point, as your friend to put their foot on the lugs, and step down on them, while you work the strut out of the fork.
9. Once the fork has been separated from the strut and the lower control arm, you can maneuver it off of the car. The fun begins here!
The goal is to bore the fork's opening out enough to fit over the main tube of the strut, and up against the 'perch'.
Looking at the top of the fork here, you're going to use the grinder to effectively 'bore' the strut opening out about 1/8" all around, 1/4" total diameter. You are only doing this down about 1/2" from the top.
I started like so... beginning about 1/4" down and work the bit toward the top once I'd reached the 1/8" depth seemed to be the easiest way to get a consistent grind.
Be sure to wear the proper eye protection when grinding...
Once you've 'bored' out the hole, you can fit the fork back over the control arm. Have your friend assist you once more by pushing the suspension down so you can fit the strut back into the newly bored fork.
A little elbow grease helps to get the fork back into position with the 17mm bolt lined up.
Once it's all back in place, and both the 17mm and 14mm bolts are reinstalled, the fork should be fitted nicely over the tube on the strut, and up against the perch.
I believe with the bolts tightened, the weight of the car is still dispersed onto the lower cap of the strut, and I think it is a perfectly reasonable and safe modification. Plus, it does NOT modify the strut or the spring! I'm there will be those who find fault in this method and call it ghetto, but they can kiss my ***. =)
Some before and after pictures. These are stock struts with Sportline springs.
Before...
After...
Front:
Rear:
If this helps just one person to correct the look of their car, then it was all worth it to me. Have fun!
This weekend I became tired enough of this look, that I became so motivated as to pull my suspension apart and see what could be done. :scared: Now some people say to just install some aftermarket struts (which sometimes included a lower spring perch) to solve the issue, but as we all know, Pro-kit springs work wonderfully with stock struts, so why spend the extra money when you were just going for a little lower stance while maintaining ride quality?!
I've figured out a way (NON-destructive to the spring or shock) to lower the front of our accords just slightly, to correct the boat look, so often achieved with lowering springs, more specifically Eibach springs.
So on to the DIY...
Tools Required:
- (1) 12mm Socket
- (1) 14mm Socket
- (2) 17mm Sockets, preferably one deep socket
- (2) Ratchets
- (1) Die Grinder (straight type, like a large dremel tool. A high-speed drill can also be used)
- (1) Friend who is willing to help you for a total of maybe five minutes.
- (1+) Metal grinding/shaping bits (the more the merrier. mine didn't wear down, but they broke loose from the shaft)
Note: All sockets can be substituted with wrenches of the same size, though it requires more elbow grease. The grinder needs to be a straight type, not angled. Pic for reference. These can be had for $30 at Harbor Freight Tools. The bits I used were about 1.5" in diameter, and 1/4" thick.
Parts Required:
- (1) None
Process:
1. Loosen the lugs on the front wheels and jack the front of the car up. You can either do one side at a time or both sides at the same time if you can lift the entire front up. Remember to be safe. Rest the car on jack stands and chock the back wheels.
2. Lift the hood, and remove two of the three 14mm nuts from the top of each front strut perch.
3. Loosen the the one remaining 14mm nut on each perch so that it will allow the strut to move freely in the next steps. Be sure it is still threaded enough to hold the strut/spring from falling out of place later.
4. Remove the two remaining 12mm nuts from the perch.
5. Remove the front wheel(s) from the car.
6. Remove the bolt at the bottom of the strut fork using one 17mm socket on the bolt head, and a deep socket 17mm or wrench on the nut side. Pushing down on the suspension while twisting the bold makes it easier to pull out once you have unthreaded it completely.
7. Remove the bolt on the back side of the strut that holds the fork to the strut using a 14mm socket.
8. At this point, as your friend to put their foot on the lugs, and step down on them, while you work the strut out of the fork.
9. Once the fork has been separated from the strut and the lower control arm, you can maneuver it off of the car. The fun begins here!
The goal is to bore the fork's opening out enough to fit over the main tube of the strut, and up against the 'perch'.
Looking at the top of the fork here, you're going to use the grinder to effectively 'bore' the strut opening out about 1/8" all around, 1/4" total diameter. You are only doing this down about 1/2" from the top.
I started like so... beginning about 1/4" down and work the bit toward the top once I'd reached the 1/8" depth seemed to be the easiest way to get a consistent grind.
Be sure to wear the proper eye protection when grinding...
Once you've 'bored' out the hole, you can fit the fork back over the control arm. Have your friend assist you once more by pushing the suspension down so you can fit the strut back into the newly bored fork.
A little elbow grease helps to get the fork back into position with the 17mm bolt lined up.
Once it's all back in place, and both the 17mm and 14mm bolts are reinstalled, the fork should be fitted nicely over the tube on the strut, and up against the perch.
I believe with the bolts tightened, the weight of the car is still dispersed onto the lower cap of the strut, and I think it is a perfectly reasonable and safe modification. Plus, it does NOT modify the strut or the spring! I'm there will be those who find fault in this method and call it ghetto, but they can kiss my ***. =)
Some before and after pictures. These are stock struts with Sportline springs.
Before...
After...
Front:
Rear:
If this helps just one person to correct the look of their car, then it was all worth it to me. Have fun!
Last edited:
