DIY Evap Canister Change - P1457

Discussion in 'DIY - Do It Yourself Forum' started by CHID0, Aug 4, 2011.

  1. CHID0

    CHID0 Well-Known Member

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    If you have a CEL and pull the code p1457 then your evap canister shut valve is either rusted the crap in either the open or closed position. The DIY is cake and only takes 10-15 from start to finish. Even if you have minimum mechanical ability, you can do this.

    Here are pics of the canister and the shut valve looks rusted to sh!t

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    History:
    I failed emissions because I got the code p1457 which points to evap canister. Now I know the evap canister hardly ever goes bad, it's normally the shut valve rusted open or shut. I got this code for the first time about 2+ years ago and I would normally just reset/erase the code anytime it would come on. The issue would pop up about once every 5 months or so. After a while, the the normal procedure stopped working. I figured it was time to fix it permanently. I've read, and it has been brought to my attention, HERE, that you could fry your ECU/PCM by simply resetting it every time or letting the issue go unchecked for an extended period of time. On the flip side I've read that it's a non issue. I would recommend that if you get a p1457 CEL once in a while and it doesn't come back on for months after resetting it, it may be a non issue and you can let it go for a while, but once the CEL comes on and continues to pop back up regularly after resetting it, then fix the problem.

    Here's how:

    Tools needed:
    #12 socket
    3/8" socket wrench
    3/8" extension (a few inches at least)
    phillip screwdriver
    silicon if necessary
    needle nose pliers
    jack
    jack stand

    Parts needed:
    17011-S84-A00 Canister Set #6 in the diagram
    17310-S0X-A0 Canister Vent Shut Valve #8 in the diagram
    93893-05010-08 (x2) Screw-Washer (5X10) #53 in the diagram

    [​IMG]
    Purchased from Majestic Honda

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    The reason for getting the canister set is because the shut valve is held in place by 2 screws and the whole assembly is mounted such that there is no protection from the elements, and in most cases the screws will be rusted on.

    1. Prep the new parts for install. Screw the new shut valve to the canister. Both items come with an o-ring; the canister has it taped to the side, and the shut valve already has it in place. I added silicon around the new screws in hopes that it would prevent rusting (might be pointless but it made me feel better for some reason).

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    2. Jack the car up at the driver's side rear jack point. Chock the front wheels. Add jack stand for safety.

    3. Locate canister. Using the new canister as reference begin removing associated hoses. (see diagram) #1, and #2 use the needle nose pliers to remove hoses. #3 has a hose clamp. #4 use your fingers and pinch sides to remove. Disconnect brown wire harness.
    [​IMG]

    4. Remove #12 bolt securing the canister to the bracket. The bolt head is most likely rusted so it may take some effort to get the socket over the bolt head. After the bolt is removed slide canister toward the left of the car slightly to free it from the bracket.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    5. Install the new canister in reverse order (steps 4-2)

    6. Scratch your head and think to yourself, "Damn, that was easy."
     
  2. xmsleepr

    xmsleepr Well-Known Member

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    omg your a lifesaver! ive had this light on for the past 3 months but ive been too busy with school and work to even get under the car and see whats wrong! so if i get down there and can take off the 2screws can i get away with just replacing the valve?
     
  3. CHID0

    CHID0 Well-Known Member

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    Yep....after looking at the screws on mine i bet i could have gotten them off with a little elbow grease. Happy i went for the full replacement though.
     
  4. djmerkone

    djmerkone Well-Known Member

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    Sweet write up! Kudos!
     
  5. 2002CG3coupe

    2002CG3coupe Well-Known Member

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    Nice DIY ever thought about doing the fuel filter also
     
  6. sikjdm

    sikjdm Well-Known Member

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    interesting..i've got the p1456 and already replaced the gas cap. started coming on about a year ago and i did what you did, just reset it and a every month or so it would come back and and just recently, it won't go away, it just stays on now..any idea if it could be the canister with the 1456 code too?
     
  7. xmsleepr

    xmsleepr Well-Known Member

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    we has fuel filter? o_O

    wasnt this a recall or something for our cars?

    17310-S0X-A0 is that part number correct? every search i make comes up as A02 and says its the same valve for 5th gen preludes and 96+ civics...
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2011
  8. CHID0

    CHID0 Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't seem like a canister shut valve issue....might have toake that one to the dealership is the gas cap replacement didn't work. Maybe clean around the filler neck.
     
  9. redlinevtec

    redlinevtec Well-Known Member

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    oh man, I thought I had 1457 but when I connected my computer this morning it read 1456. i've had that code for awhile though. oh well. I'll just keep resetting until i figure it out.
     
  10. dreamliner77

    dreamliner77 Active Member

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