DIY: Ignition Switch replacement (Recall number 02-031)

Discussion in 'DIY - Do It Yourself Forum' started by F23A1AT, Jun 8, 2009.

  1. F23A1AT

    F23A1AT Well-Known Member

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    This is the process for replacing the ignition switch in our cars. This switch will fail, it is a matter of when not if. Some will flame and say take it to the dealer, but for some the switch will fail twice or more times, the stealership will not fix it twice + for free. Symptoms of the failure of the said part will include the vehicle shutting down at random. While cruising the driver may notice the engine stalling, all gauges will read ZERO and the HVAC blower will also cease to work. The problem can be temporarily alleviated by carefully nudging the key while still in stage II toward stage III but not engaging the starter. As this may not solve the issue you are having with your car I am not responsible if this is not the problem, it is one of many solutions to solving the said symptoms, also the cheapest I have found. If this does not remedy the problem look for the Main relay DIY thread.

    Disclaimer: I am not you and you are not me, if you break something or muck something up while doing this, ABSOLUTELY NO POINTING FINGERS.

    Also if you have a stock radio and have any trim level including and above "EX" this includes V6s you will need the radio code or the radio will cease to function until the code is put back in. You can probably get it for free at your local stealership.

    Time required: About 30-45 minutes if you do it right
    Difficulty: 2 out of 10

    Required stuff:
    The ignition switch P/N 35130-S84-305 or Click this I'll play nice. This part is for a 98-02 Honda Accord ONLY (for other viewers non-6GA)
    A Phillips headed screw driver
    A Flat headed screw driver
    Patience
    About 30-45 mins

    NEW parts!!!
    [​IMG]

    Step One: Disconnect your battery, your going to be working in the vicinity of impact sensors so you could set off the airbag if you don't disconnect the battery it could go off. Let the system discharge for about 10 minutes.

    Step Two: Remove the fuse panel cover on the drivers side. Then remove the interior trim underneath the center console, it is only held on by clips so if you pull it will come off. This is where you need a flat screw driver carefully pull that panel back so you don't scratch the trim. Then pull on it, the piece is stubborn but it does come out.

    Step Three: Take the Phillips screw driver and remove the three screws holding the knee bolster on there are two behind the fuse panel cover and one behind the stubborn panel under the radio. Here is a pic of the two screws. Then remove the knee bolster it is held on by three clips one on the inboard side of the steering wheel and two nearest to the door. Set this aside. The passenger seat works good for this there usually isn't anything that could scratch it up [​IMG] Here is where the other screw is [​IMG]

    Step Four: Find the three screws holding the steering column cover on. they are on the bottom of the cover they are Phillips. pixor[​IMG]

    Step Five: Separate the two pieces of the column cover (they snap together) the will snap apart easily. To get the cover off you will need to lower the steering wheel and leave the adjusting lever down so that you can slip the bottom piece off, otherwise it will be a PITA to get off.

    Step Six: Unhook the wiring harness for the ignition switch it is a red clip with a white strip of plastic on it. It is plugged into the back of the fuse panel. This is what it looks like.[​IMG]

    Step Seven: Unscrew the two Phillips screws holding the ignition switch on. One on the top the other on the bottom. There WAS some black piece of plastic in the way. I assume it was some sort of shield but it was in my way and I couldn't unscrew it so it is in about eight little pieces now. [​IMG]
    This is one of the two screw holes the other is on the other side of that little set of wires in the black cover

    Step Eight: Take off the switch, it is just sitting on the end of a "keyed" shaft so it will not fight to come off.

    Step Nine: Route the wiring harness through the little space it calls home and back around to the fuse panel, Be careful not to rip anything out of place or you will have problems.

    Step Ten: Reinstall the new ignition switch via the two screws, I don't know why this happened but you may have to turn the center part the part that engages the shaft to the "OFF" position. Mine was turned to a different location, just hold it in the proper orientation and use a flat screw driver to carefully turn it to the off position.

    Step Eleven: Plug in the ignition switch harness, then reattach the battery and turn the key to the on (stage 1 or 2) to ensure everything works before you put the interior trim back on.

    If it works congratulations have a beer or soda if you prefer (I dunno why you would prefer the latter over the first)

    Step Twelve: Put all of the trim back on starting with the column cover. This was the most time consuming of my work, the bottom piece didn't really line up properly for me so it took a while. After you get the three screws in snap the top piece back on. Then move to the knee bolster, push it on then put the three screws back in. Then put the piece of trim back in under the center console, then the fuse panel cover.

    And just like every good mechanic knows there will be left over pieces :hihi: [​IMG]
    No I'm just kidding these were pieces that came with the part from Honda I don't know where they go and I didn't take any thing like them off so these are now garbage.


    You are now finished with the replacement of the Ignition switch in you 6GA, and it will hopefully not happen again in the life of this car for you at least.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2011
    Bond4387 likes this.
  2. Johnson

    Johnson Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup:
     
  3. CG6Lemon

    CG6Lemon Detailing Enthusiast

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    nice write up! :whip_001:
     
  4. BadgerType

    BadgerType Resident ***hole

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    added to the official DIY list

    Thanks
     
  5. finch13

    finch13 Well-Known Member

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    Those extra parts are shear bolts and a bracket to reattach the steering column to the dash if you had to drop and drill the bracket on the column, plus new screws to attach the switch to the key cylinder. I know 5th gens are like that and it might be a universal part, so they include everything.

    Good writeup!

    Also, radio codes can be found at AHM Owner Link: https://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/
     
  6. F23A1AT

    F23A1AT Well-Known Member

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    Here is the really funny thing I had to go to the stealership yesterday for some ATF. I asked about the price of the part and the labor costs etc. They told me the part was 49 and change plus a two hour labor charge brigning the total to approx. $210.00. :inouteek:

    Wade Raulerson Honda:
    Parts 50.00
    Labor 160.00
    Total 210.00

    DIY:
    Parts 35.00
    Time Free

    Gaining useful DIY skills: Priceless
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2010
  7. Accord281

    Accord281 Well-Known Member

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    Great write-up! It is important to note that the recall is only for 97-99 accords so those with 00 or higher shouldn't be affected by this defect, but if yours does break, you will have to pay for it even the first time.
     
  8. xi0utlawstarix

    xi0utlawstarix Well-Known Member

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    great write up!!!

    but this is a safety recall and it should be replacd for free? :thinking: got mine replaced for free.


    Important Safety Recall: Ignition Switch Interlock

    Dear Accord, Civic, CR-V, Odyssey or Prelude Owner:

    This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act.

    What is the reason for this notice?
    Honda Motor Co., Ltd., has determined that a defect relating to motor vehicle safety exists in the ignition switch on certain 1997 thru 2000 Honda automobiles. Electrical contacts in the ignition switch can wear prematurely due to high electrical current passing through the switch. Worn out ignition contacts could cause the engine to stall without warning. Although the engine will restart in most cases, if your engine stalls while driving in traffic or at highway speeds, you're at risk of being involved in a crash. Difficulties starting the engine (for example, hard-to-start, stalls immediately after starting, etc.) may indicate that the ignition switch is failing.
     
  9. 98accordlx

    98accordlx Well-Known Member

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    so let me get this straight. ever since i got all the locks replaced on my car including the ignition ive been dealing with my car stalling out and from time to time not restarting. i actually kinda got used to it stalling out cuz all id have to do if it didnt restart automatically id just pop the clutch and off i go but that only worked when on the highway doin 50 plus but yesterday when it stalled i wound up stuck in the parking lot of a kmart in canton off of 62 for 2 hours trying to get it to start again. i got my locks replaced back in september when i got the car so...............................
     
  10. BadgerType

    BadgerType Resident ***hole

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    this is for other accords, like mine, who dont fall under the warranty.

    damn honda for my defect free car
     

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