Front Adjustable UCAs - Suggestions

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, and Tires' started by CDsDontBurn, Dec 29, 2017.

  1. CDsDontBurn

    CDsDontBurn Well-Known Member

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    I was going to do the LCAs anyway. And the previous post got me thinking of doing all the other little bits too. It's just the UCAs I'm concerned about.

    I'm leaning on the TruHarts at this point. I REALLY want the Ingalls Engineering units, but they're unobtainium at the moment. That, or I'm not looking hard enough for them where they're not $200+ each side whereas I'd be willing to spend $150 on each side like I saw them for on Amazon.

    As for making the purchase, I'll be buying hardware this coming paycheck......if the wife doesn't want to splurge for Valentines.... :rolleyes: :wub:
     
  2. CDsDontBurn

    CDsDontBurn Well-Known Member

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    Parts came in today! I went with Mevotech's higher end line of product for the UCAs. I just didn't know enough about those adjustable units that made me feel comfortable enough to buy them and the Ingalls Engineering units are no longer available as (I found out) Dorman bought them out early last year.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/xWvhAPDLSzuFGvhR2

    For my PS pump job that I'm going to be replacing (should be in tomorrow)

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/1GL7ZhSnw0gknOXt2

    And, does anyone know why the end link nuts are oblong / oval?

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/wYV7rEqHI6kxMwci1
     
  3. Rusty Accord

    Rusty Accord Well-Known Member

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    Those are "self locking" nuts. Perfectly normal for the application, as not everyone has loctite in their tool box.
     
  4. CDsDontBurn

    CDsDontBurn Well-Known Member

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    Just watched two YT videos, one on how to do UCA and the second on how to do the LCA. The LCA is far more involved, but in doing so, I realized that it doesn't take a whole lot more to do the lower ball joints on the knuckle. Then, there's the wheel bearings as well.

    The saying goes, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but at the same time, I'm already there and all this stuff has 318k miles on it.....sooooooooooo

    What do you guys say? Should I replace the hubs and lower ball joints as well? I'd rather do the job once and with it all already apart, I might as well. That's my thinking at least.
     
  5. Rusty Accord

    Rusty Accord Well-Known Member

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    When I did the front end of my 99, I did hub bearings and lower ball joints at the same time. I re-used my 4 lug hubs though, as they were Honda parts. The hub bearings were Timken, but the ball joints were from Detroit Axle. I also did outer tie rod ends too. I did that at 232K miles. The hub bearings were why I was in there, as they were rumbling pretty good.
     
  6. Enne

    Enne Well-Known Member

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    I'd go ahead and do all of it.
     
  7. CDsDontBurn

    CDsDontBurn Well-Known Member

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    That's just it. Nothing is clunking, rumbling, or making noises of any sort at this time. But I'm one of those people who like to do preventative maintenance rather than "Oh shibby!!!" maintenance.

    That's the way I'm leaning towards also.
     
  8. Rusty Accord

    Rusty Accord Well-Known Member

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    Exactly. You'll have it torn down, so might as well go thru it all.
     
  9. CDsDontBurn

    CDsDontBurn Well-Known Member

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    So I guess this will have to wait another month or so then before I can get into this. I'll have to buy the bushings and the bearings and right now I'm tapped out for cash after having spent nearly $500 in TLC parts. It's just an extra $100, but rent is coming up, lol.

    Also, after I got tires....three weeks ago now?....they told me I needed new front brakes soon. I kinda figured because of the extreme shaking of the steering wheel when hitting the brakes with almost any sort of pressure. That, and I'm starting to hear the indicator pin making a slight squeal when I apply brake pressure, lol.
     
  10. BlkCurrantKord

    BlkCurrantKord Super Moderator

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    Yea, those are warped rotors.
     

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