After reading all this, your best bet is to do what I did with my previous car.
1. Source a turbo : What I used was a garret t28 from a nissan 240sx sr20det which is also ball bearing,and get it rebuilt. Be careful redtop is a t25 journal bearing. You're looking for a blacktop. You can get these used on ebay, and then professionally rebuilt locally. Don't cheap out on the turbo, you're gonna regret it when the turbo vanes shoot into your cylinders and either put a hole in your piston, score your cylinder walls, or just bend some valves if you're lucky.
2. The Turbo Manifold : Now many people don't know what to do here. Cast Iron log manifold or Ram horn? Well a properly reinforced cast iron log manifold is decently cheap and should last you a very long time, and resist cracking very well. The only problem being is they have terrible flow. Properly made ram horns are expensive, and have the best flow. Bottom line is if your lookin to make cheap reliable power go log, if you have big HP dreams go ram. You also need to match the Turbo flange to the manifold, pretty important though you could always put an adapter on.
3.The Wastegate: Now wastegates are another thing you absolutely can not cheap out on. The spring inside the wastegate must be the amount of PSI you are planning to run obviously. Tials are some of the best wastegates I've ever used. Held 40 psi on my friends civic no problems.
4.The Intercooler: If you want your turbo-ed engine to be efficient, then you are going to need a decently flowing intercooler. Intercoolers come in bar and plate and tube and fin. Bar and plates have good durability, better cooling but less flow. Fin types get damaged easily, cool less, but flow better. If you want to compromise there is a hybrid fin which is a combo of both, but is also a little bit more expensive. Dont go more than 2.5 inlet outlet if you're planning to run a small turbo, you're going to lose flow from the pressure drop.
5. Blow off valve: Honestly you can get any bov you want and be able to get away with it. Old style HKS bov's are pretty cheap now adays. Watch out for fakes too. Greddy Type-S bovs are discontinued so if anyone is selling them on ebay be wary.
6. Engine Management System and tune: Here is where people vary greatly. I being part of the East Coast Honda game used Hondata with a step down harness. If you didnt know Hondata is a chipped p28/p72 oem honda ecu, that is tuneable via usb port using a laptop. Very tuner friendly. This option is great if you didnt have to replace the hondata with the stock ecu everytime you went for an inspection. I know all you west coast guys love your AEM plug and play, but same issue. Crome is free, but its hard to find a tuner for. There are a coupe of others but Ive never had experience with them so I wont mention them. Hondata is 500 bucks, AEM used to be close to 1000. Its really up to you what you want to use though. But we all know East Coast Hondas are faster than west coast hehehe. Just look at Chris Miller NRG tech in Long Island,NY, hes a local superstar (shameless plug lol), also tubaso from yosolo racing, Morris Tuning/Midnight Auto.
If you are going to turbo look to spend more than 1000 for a reliable setup. A tune is usually 500 alone. Dont forget to factor in the price of tapping oil lines, oil pans, oil pressure gauges, boost pressure gauges, Wideband Airfuelratio gauge, Intercooler Pipings and Fittings (dont use screw clamps, they have been known to leak and pop off).If i forgot anything my bad
