From the repair manual, Section 21, page 22: Recirculation control Motor Test
1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the recirculation control motor.
[NOTICE]
Incorrectly applying power and ground to the recirculation control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No.1 terminal, and ground the No.5 and No.7 terminals; the recirculation control motor should run smoothly. To avoid damaging the recirculation control motor, do not reverse power and ground. Disconnect the No.5 or No.7 terminals from ground; the recirculation control motor should stop at Fresh or Recirculate. Don't cycle the recirculation control motor for a long time.
[there is a diagram of the 7 pin connector at this point. It is flat on the bottom, and is raised at the odd numbers, with 3 and 5 slightly higher than 1 and 7.]
3. If the recirculation control motor does not run in step 2, remove it then check the recirculation control linkage and doors for smooth movement.
* If the linkage and doors more smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor.
* If the linkage or doors sticks or binds, repair them as needed.
Recirculation Control Motor Replacement
1. Remove the glove box (see page 20-87).
2. disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the recirculation control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws and the recirculation control motor from the blower unit.
[ diagram of the motor and wiring harness with reference to the glove box follows, wires labelled as (A) and motor as (B) The screws referred to are two which go from the right hand side through brackets on the motor. ]
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the morot runs smoothly.
Edit: My HCU is acting quite badly as well, the controls will sometimes not light up while the car is running. I can still control fan speed, but I cannot select different vents, turn on A/C, rear window defrost, or change the temperature mix (I can turn the dial, but it does nothing) while it is in this state. A little pressure on the back of the module (Pulling out the clock, and reaching in back there) will usually get it working. A bit of percussive maintenance did the trick for a while, but it takes a bit more finesse to do it now. This was it's intermittant issue before, but yours sounds different.