Hondata and the Temp Gauge 2001 Accord

Anybody get their cluster's temp gauge to work with Hondata? The gauge cluster no longer works and I am using an external aftermarket type hidden away. I would like to find a way to make the factory dash gauge work. I have tried to continue the Temp send wire separately from the ECM harness up to the cluster. The sending unit is 0-5 volts, factory cluster is 0-5volts, aftermarket gauges are 0-5 volts. The factory temp gauge works again when the hondata is unplugged and the stock ecm is connected. Like I said I even tried to run the wire up to the cluster by itself. I don't understand the problem...yet.

2001 Accord LX 5 speed F23 Turbo Hondata S300

 

I found out how each gauge circuit works, and the differences between the 98-99 accords, the 00-02 accords, and the preludes. And just as the circuit maps told me, the main diffence is where the signal is sent first.

Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge (’98-’99)
The engine coolant temperature gauge has two
intersecting coils wound around a permanent magnet
rotor. Voltage applied to the coils, through fuse 9 (in
driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box), generates a
magnetic field. The magnetic field, controlled by the
coolant temperature sending unit, causes the rotor to
rotate and the gauge needle to move. As the
resistance in the sending unit varies, current through
the gauge coils changes, moving the gauge needle
toward the coil with the strongest magnetic field.
The coolant temperature sending unit’s resistance
varies from about 137 ohms at low engine coolant
temperature to between 30-46 ohms at high
temperature.

Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge (’00-’02)
The engine coolant temperature gauge has two
intersecting coils wound around a permanent
magnet rotor. Voltage applied to the coils, through
fuse 9 (in driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box),
generates a magnetic field. The magnetic field,
controlled by the ECM or PCM causes the rotor to
rotate and the gauge needle to move. As the ECM
or PCM varies the current, current through the
gauge coils changes, moving the gauge needle
toward the coil with the strongest magnetic field.


Coolant Temperature '95 Prelude
With the ignition switch in ON () or START (),
voltage is applied through fuse 13 and the fuel and
engine coolant temperature gauges. The gauge
circuit is grounded at G402.
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) gauge is
divided into 7 separate segments. The number of
segments that light up depends on the input from
the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sending unit.
The sending unit’s resistance varies from about 142
ohms at low engine temperature to between 49 and
32 ohms at high temperature (radiator fan running).

It's measuring current, (amps). Normally ecus work on very low amperage, as to keep heat down. So I bet the amperage being sent to the gauges is lower in the 00-02 models than the 98-99s' sending unit is sending to the gauges. The 98-99s and the preludes are very similar execpt for the resistances in the sending units, and the prelude has a digital dash . Other than that they work the same way.

Yes Hondata reads the temp signal, and there is voltage at the sensor..

I personally think it is a junction Pin that hits the ecm and then up to the cluster temp gauge, but I cannot find it. The wire harness goes down behind the dash and through / by the horn relay. From there possibly multiplexed? Back probing at any spot shows no voltage on the DVOM. Plugging the Oem ECM back in and presto it works.

5 Volt
Yellow / Green wire
ECM connector C24 although some sources are coming up C26 ECT I used C24.
Gauge connector C2

It should be a one wire fix , the yellow and green one.
Get the signal to the cluster.
I turned it into a pile of useless data and a bunch of spaghetti.

I'm fighting the Cola Wars , or something, Pepsi One Coke Zero.

 

The factory cluster's temp gauge recieves a replexed coded digital signal generated from the ECM. The factory temp gauge in the cluster will not work with the 6th gen Accords AND Hondata. Hondata does not emulate the signal ..yet.

My research led me to Redline Gauges. They retrofit antique gauge clusters in house with modern internals. I would need a second spare gauge cluster to modify for when Hondata is used. It would then accept the signal from the factory CTS. The new modern internal temp gauge, would be calibrated and the needle sweep range programmed to match the factory specs. it will cost a few hundred to make everything 'working' , but it is hard to justify. The $20 dollar temp gauge in the center console hidden away works fine. I was hoping for any easier method to get it working or some feedback from other Hondata users.

Edit-Is there anything about the immobilizer that I need to know? Would it prevent the use of a second gauge cluster?

 

Cant help you with your problem but good info you supplied! Do you have a build thread, im planning on going turbo after i move to Florida later this year, would love to hear your setup.
Edit; found your thread. Where did you find the turbo manifold with center mount wastegate, all the ones i see are mounted off to the side?

 

This F23 turbo Manifold was supplied by Rev9 from ebay. JDMDepot has them too. They are those cast log types that last forever. Probably not the highest performing but keeps the AC and takes little space.

 

Thanks for the reply. Awesome build giving me motivation for my accord.

 

[QUOTE = "Mark2001Accord, post: 1113856, member: 24612"] Кто-нибудь может получить временную шкалу своего кластера для работы с Hondata? Блок датчиков больше не работает, и я использую внешний скрытый тип вторичного рынка. Я хотел бы найти способ заставить работать приборную панель. Я попытался продолжить отправку провода Temp отдельно от жгута ECM до кластера. Единица отправки составляет 0-5 вольт, заводская группа 0-5 вольт, послепродажные индикаторы 0-5 вольт. Заводской датчик температуры снова работает, когда хондата отключена и подключен сток-модуль. Как я уже сказал, я даже пытался проложить провод к кластеру сам по себе. Я не понимаю проблемы ... пока.

Аккорд LX 2001 5 скоростей F23 Turbo Hondata S300

[ATTACH = полный] 7405 [/ ATTACH] [/ QUOTE]




Приветствую!
У вас автомобиль 2001 года, соответственно на приборной панели стрелка температуры показывается температура, которую блок управления двигателем (цифровой сигнал) на приборной панели выдает разъем / вывод «С2».
Если вы используете от хондадаты внешний датчик температуры одноконтактный, то ваша панель приборов не будет показывать температуру, потому что от внешнего датчика есть аналоговый сигнал - панель приборов купе 1998-1999 годов может показать это.

Для работы с хондадатом и внешним сенсорным датчиком температуры вам понадобится панель от аккорда купе 1998-1999-х годов, так как она работает для аналогового сигнала от датчика.
Что вам нужно сделать:
1. Купить панель приборов от купе 1998-1999 годов с двигателем F23
2. При штатной проводке приборной панели, в розетке / выводе «С2» - провод, идущий на обрезку к этой клемме.
3. Проложить провод от внешнего датчика температуры к приборной панели (1998-1999) и припаять его к проводу в разъеме C2.

 

Yay for translate, thanks for the info SergA73

 

there are no problems!

 

Did this ever get solved. Curious to know what the fix was.

ran into the same when transferring an h swap from 99 to 01. my fix was to run an aftermarket guage and sending unit.