How bad are factory speakers ?

cg4ever

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Hey guys,

I'm going to change my factory head unit for a good Kenwood 4X50W.

I'm not listening that loud in my car and i don't mind not having that extra sub ompff. So just by replacing the head unit with a quality one of 4x50W how bad or..good the factory speakers can sound ?
 

Nam1911a1

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There is zero sound damping on the door skins. Factory speakers are terrible. I highly suggest adding sound damping mat before you install new speakers
 

cg4ever

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I don't want to go into somew wild diy stuff. Actually i just want to keep this oem as possible.

To put the question in another way, from changing the factory HU to a more high-end HU will the factory speakers will sound a bit better ?

Considering that the new HU will have a 5 band equalizer and dsp stuff.
 

Nam1911a1

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Eh...it’s personal preference. I know what a really high fidelity sound system sounds like. To most people they will believe what they want and if it sounds good to you that’s all that matters.


I’ll say this. Merely changing the power source willl not magically make bad sounding speakers sound better.
 

RedRyder

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I upgraded the 6x9's to the BOSE units from the CL, was going to do the fronts too but they were not direct fit. Sounds good enough for me, but then again I'm not an audiophile.
 

jypatric

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Alpine are decent speakers. You can also add an amp for higher output.
 

Nam1911a1

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Here is how the vast majority of people have no idea how much installation and prep have to do with the sound quality and not the price of the speakers.

I had a $40 pair of Kenwood 2 way speakers in my ford explore up front. I was powering them with the pioneer HU.

My friend had a $300 dollar Set if JL Audio 6.5” components off a nice Memphis Audio amp.

My speakers blew his out of the water in regards to sound quality, ability to reproduce a full audio spectrum, and midbass and bass down to 40hz. MoSt people thought I had a single 8” sub when I turned the 15” sub off.

Difference was my friend just bought the speakers and installed them in his factory untreated doors. Just thin, hollow sounding, acoustically deficient doors like 90% of cars.

Me on the other hand cleaned and degreased my doors. Installed two layers on 75% of the inside of the outer Door skin. Two layers on 90% of the inner door panel. And three layers around the speaker hole itself.

It’s like comparing a sub in a 1/4” plywood box compared to a solid 1.5” double walled MDF box.

Sound is energy. Tap on your door. That sound is the energy from your hand going to the door panel. That thin flimsy metal and anything that vibrates robs that sound energy. If you want the most out of ANY speaker install preparation and sound damping is key.

I proved time and time again that it’s not how much money you have. It’s how you do the instAll. You don’t need to spend a lot of money to have great sound. You just need to spend some time.

I spent about 2 hours on each door. But the outcome was welll worth it.
 

Nam1911a1

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You don’t even have to buy dynamite. Poor mans sound damping mat is Peel and Seal flashing from Lowe’s. I use it and it has withstood Georgia’s heat for two years and no problems. It is a fraction of the price and you can deaden both doors and the rear deck for less than 25 dollars.
 

cg4ever

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One question, from factory is the crossover built in the door panel speakers itself or into the tweeters ?
 

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