Leaking dizzy or valve cover?

Enne

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Hiya,

Took a flash photo of the engine bay and noticed this leak coming from around the dizzy/valve cover...I replaced both the distributor cap and rotor, and the valve cover gasket in November 2015. This super slow leak has been there before, but now it's bothering me. Could anyone help me out identifying this? I cleaned the engine bay a few months ago but the leak is so slow, it's hard to tell where it's coming from.
b4bf674887d502b75a4274a4abbfcc57.jpg
 

Rusty Accord

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Hiya,

Took a flash photo of the engine bay and noticed this leak coming from around the dizzy/valve cover...I replaced both the distributor cap and rotor, and the valve cover gasket in November 2015. This super slow leak has been there before, but now it's bothering me. Could anyone help me out identifying this? I cleaned the engine bay a few months ago but the leak is so slow, it's hard to tell where it's coming from.
b4bf674887d502b75a4274a4abbfcc57.jpg

If I had to make a quick guess, I'd say "O" ring on the distributor base. If I were rebuilding/going thru it, I'd replace the other 2 seals (inside) too. But I think it's like 25 bucks plus shipping for all the seals from somebody (sorry not on my regular computer that has those direct links). I think Rock Auto offers a seal kit for 15 bucks though, or 7 bucks for just the "O" ring. I've got 2 F23's here that need an "O" ring minimum. It's a common leak point. Inspect the heater hose below the distributor, and note if it's swelling or not (it's not made to absorb oil from the outside). If it is, you'll need to look at replacing that hose. Just a heads up.
P.S. edit; Try and get us a slightly higher up pic, so we can see the valve cover, to see if it's leaking.
 

Accordx

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For sure check the hoses, that's how one of mine went bad. If you're gonna replace one, might as well replace the other two to get it over with as well.
 

Enne

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Thanks guys. I might go ahead and try replacing the rings myself. Is that a do it in an afternoon thing? We replaced the cap and rotor, but my dad did that whilst I was cleaning the interior, so I didn't get to see what all went into it.
 

Rusty Accord

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Thanks guys. I might go ahead and try replacing the rings myself. Is that a do it in an afternoon thing? We replaced the cap and rotor, but my dad did that whilst I was cleaning the interior, so I didn't get to see what all went into it.

Yeah, it's a long afternoon kind of thing. You have to take off the distributor cap, then the 3 bolts that hold the distributor to the head/engine. Then unplug the distributor from the wiring harness, so you can take the distributor over to the work bench. Once there, flip it upside down, and mark the off set of the dog ears (they engage into the cam drive slot, and are offset from center), before you remove the wound spring, and drive out the pin. It's very important to mark this on the shaft, and on the correct off set side, for reassembly later. Then you should be able to remove the upper shaft assembly out of the distributor housing. Once it's out, you'll see a seal at the bottom of the cavity, and one at the bottom of the distributor. Pop them out and replace them, oil up the lips and re-install the upper shaft assembly. Now, since you marked the drive shaft with the offset for the ears, install that piece and re-insert the pin and the install the wound spring. Finally replace the "O" ring (oiled up) and re-install the distributor in the car, making sure the dog ears engage into the cam slot before installing the 3 bolts. Then the cap can be put on and the wiring harness plug clipped back in. If you got the drive dog ear piece installed correctly, it should fire right up. If it doesn't, then the drive dog ear part was installed 180 out, and the distributor has to be pulled out again, and the drive dog spun 180.
 
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