Missing Parts! Important For Finishing Timing Belt Replacement Project???

[windnsalsa]

Mod, please move if this doesn't fall under "urgent" sub-forum. I would want to know if I need replacement parts now while I have all timing belt related parts removed and need to get the car running tomorrow.

Model: see signature

Issue #1:
The timing belt front upper cover is usually attached by 2 bolts to the rear/back upper cover [=BUC, which is between the cylinder head and the cam sprocket]. The front part [bolt area towards the radiator side] can no longer be bolted because the plastic sleeve/housing/tab of the BUC broke. The BUC houses the bolt's metal barrel that secures the bolt.

The BUC costs alot for just a stupid plastic back cover plate. Would there be any issue if that left bolt tab area is without a bolt attached in the long term? So, the front upper cover would only be secured with only one bolt [located towards the firewall side] remaining.


Issue #2:
The rubber seal around the tensioner main nut is missing. Would this be a problem?

Illustration Pictures of Parts below:
*Very annoying, new members can't include external link. Also, very frustrating experience here of attaching any image [e.g. size quota, but my attachment was clearly under maximum limits]

UPDATE:
*RedRyder, thanks for the spaces tip.

*Link to the illustration should work after removing the 2 spaces around the forward slash and copy&paste it in the url box
bit.do / ecJsC


item #3
11820-P0A-000
Cover, Timing Belt (Upper)

item #4 [BUC]
11830-PAA-800
Cover, Timing Belt Back
*the area affected is the bolt hole to the left of #16

item #22
tensioner adjusting nut rubber seal

 

[BlkCurrantKord]

You should keep them both but if the inner piece is broken, just pull it off. Better for it to not be there than wobble around and potentially get stuck in the timing belt.

 

[RedRyder]

With how often the timing belt maintenence is done, and how involved it is to get to anything related to it, it's best to just replace everything.

You can post pictures, links, etc after 7 days. You can kind of cheat with links if you just insert a space somewhere. As for photos, best to use an image hosting site like Flickr or the like.

 

[windnsalsa]

You should keep them both but if the inner piece is broken, just pull it off. Better for it to not be there than wobble around and potentially get stuck in the timing belt.

Ok, I think the illustration link should work now to help with seeing the exact part is broken. If 'inner' piece [which is the back upper cover=BUC] is removed, then the front upper cover [FUC] no longer can be attached. The BUC still has 2 bolts attaching it to the block. So, it would not be wobbling. The broken piece is the bolt sleeve that would attach the FUC. Now, there would be only 1 and not 2 bolts securing the FUC

 

[windnsalsa]

???
OT: curious if this is bad for anything if I turn on the engine, while many parts are removed [timing, balancer & accessory drive belts, pulley tensioners, balancer drive & belt pulleys,]. I might have to wait for my brother to get some parts at the dealership and get a couple things done. I might want to heat up the engine and open up the heater core to drain possibly more coolant as well as help drain the oil for an oil filter change.

 

[Rusty Accord]

???
OT: curious if this is bad for anything if I turn on the engine, while many parts are removed [timing, balancer & accessory drive belts, pulley tensioners, balancer drive & belt pulleys,]. I might have to wait for my brother to get some parts at the dealership and get a couple things done. I might want to heat up the engine and open up the heater core to drain possibly more coolant as well as help drain the oil for an oil filter change.

Don't turn on the engine, and don't turn the engine while the belt is off. Doing so can damage the engine, because some valves might be extended (open) that will hit the piston.
While you have the belt off, replace the water pump.

 

[windnsalsa]

stealership quoted $95 for the back plate. WHOAAAAAAA! Fortunately, I found a replacement at a Pick N Pull junkyard as well as the rubber seal.*

The rubber seal is installed / removed after the bottom cover is in place. It seems it can be found something similar at a local hardware store.**

Upon closer inspection, the front upper cover forward bolt hole could probably be tied to a bolt nearby to minimize vibation/movement. The back plate still had 2 bolts securing it to the head.

I replaced alot of things [eg. water pump, TB & balancer belts, crank, balancer & cam seals, both tensioners] and will finish with*valve cover gasket/plug seals/bolt grommets and oil filter change.

I ended up not turning the engine over as suggested.*

I am almost finished.*I might post another thread about a small inconsistency of aligning the marks on the rear balancer sprocket [whereas front balancer sprocket and crank sprocket are aligned] after putting on balancer belt.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Rusty Accord]

stealership quoted $95 for the back plate. WHOAAAAAAA! Fortunately, I found a replacement at a Pick N Pull junkyard as well as the rubber seal.*
I replaced alot of things [eg. water pump, TB & balancer belts, crank, balancer & cam seals, both tensioners] and will finish with*valve cover gasket/plug seals/bolt grommets and oil filter change.

I ended up not turning the engine over as suggested.*

I am almost finished.*I might post another thread about a small inconsistency of aligning the marks on the rear balancer sprocket [whereas front balancer sprocket and crank sprocket are aligned] after putting on balancer belt.

Thanks everyone.

Congrats on doing all that work. I hope you rolled the engine over about 6 times after getting both belts changed. It's one of those things I do to make sure everything is good to go.
As for the upper sprocket at the camshaft, there's an arrow on the back side that should point straight up, but if you look at the gear on the front side (where you slide the belt on) you'll see 2 flats that line up with the front surface of the valve cover/head mating surface. I use that as a reference point so I don't have to keep getting up and down (hard on my knees these days). But getting both belts in time and tensioned right is a PIA. That's where I seem to spend most of my time, getting it right. Supposedly you can back the nut off (with the rubber washer) and it'll set the tension, but, I prefer to get it right with the cover off.
But, congrats on the job.

 

[windnsalsa]

Congrats on doing all that work. I hope you rolled the engine over about 6 times after getting both belts changed. It's one of those things I do to make sure everything is good to go.
As for the upper sprocket at the camshaft, there's an arrow on the back side that should point straight up, but if you look at the gear on the front side (where you slide the belt on) you'll see 2 flats that line up with the front surface of the valve cover/head mating surface. I use that as a reference point so I don't have to keep getting up and down (hard on my knees these days). But getting both belts in time and tensioned right is a PIA. That's where I seem to spend most of my time, getting it right. Supposedly you can back the nut off (with the rubber washer) and it'll set the tension, but, I prefer to get it right with the cover off.
But, congrats on the job.

thanks, but the project turned out more complicated than what's detailed on paper. Yes, I did turn the crank 6 times. I created another post regarding some observations I encountered. Link below which should work after removing the space before the forward slash and copy&paste it in the url box. I can't post links yet.

bit.do /ec8oS