No Start Possible Fuse or Electrical Problem Please Help

Akuza

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A couple of weeks ago I was attempting to make the connection part of the car electrical outlet, a little spark appeared and next thing i know the radio and outlet both stop working. I do some research and replace the fuse, and voila they work. I noticed other fuse's were in not so good condition so I replaced all fuses inside the car, no in engine bay, with new fresh ones. Next thing I know the car slowly starts developing its own little problems, first with no starting, instead my check engine and maintenance light, which have been there for months due to some minor things, are faded and i don't hear the fuel pump priming. Then when they key is turned its just a buzzing clicking sound. I found as a temporary fix to disconnect the battery, then reconnect and it resets the car and lets it turn on and will run fine, or used to. Now If i turn on my high beams, the instrument cluster will black out for a second as well as the radio, even without the high beams the radio now shuts on and off randomly. Someone please help, the problem seems similar to

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50566&highlight=fuse

I'll link some videos of my it in my case

https://youtu.be/x0AS36j-AMU - No Start

https://youtu.be/pLscQbVBGpE - Cluster
 

xci.ed6

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What kinda car?

Have any wiring diagrams?

The cluster suggests the parking light circuit, same with radio if it is lights. Maybe some shared power supply point if it is sound. Need diagram though.
 

Akuza

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What kinda car?

Have any wiring diagrams?

The cluster suggests the parking light circuit, same with radio if it is lights. Maybe some shared power supply point if it is sound. Need diagram though.

1999 Accord v6, 2 door, as far as diagrams I don't have, ill try to find one, I was told to check for grounds from battery, as well as grounds under the dash.

edit: it is an ex model, and i have had the ignition switch replaced before, I just tested if wiggling the key would turn the car off and it does not so I am stuck.
Found http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1999/Honda/Accord/print_wiring_chart.asp
 
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xci.ed6

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Is it just the radio lights that shut off?

Or the whole radio?

The 'diagram' you posted doesn't help, btw. It shows only what wires do what, we need to know where they go AND how they get there.
 

Akuza

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If i clicked the headlights the dash cluster would shut off for a second or less and come back, as well as the radio, basically would shut off, stop playing, and turn on within a second or less. The Main issue is just how frequent I have the problem where the car will not start, just dim dash lights, no fuel priming, and a internal clicking sound when i turn the ignition, the indoor lights as well will not turn on in this instance also.

No start - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0AS36j-AMU

Using http://www.wilsonautoelectric.com/tsb_database.html
it pulls out all sorts of diagrams but I do not know which one is what you are looking for. 99' Honda Accord 3.0L
 

xci.ed6

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I'll get on that later, but more failures points to a bigger cause. Start by checking the large terminals and connectors visually for corrosion.

Then check the larger wires electrically. First off, set your DVOM to volts. Mearsure volts from the battery post negative to the engine block while cranking. Then from the battery post to the chassis, while cranking. See anything?

Then do the battery positive post to the fuse blocks, while cranking. Poke random fuses. Headlight, radio, whatever. See anything?

You have a bad connection somewhere, so it only has severe voltage drop while loaded. The dvom is to measure this drop, the cranking is to cause this load.
 

Akuza

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I'll get on that later, but more failures points to a bigger cause. Start by checking the large terminals and connectors visually for corrosion.

Then check the larger wires electrically. First off, set your DVOM to volts. Mearsure volts from the battery post negative to the engine block while cranking. Then from the battery post to the chassis, while cranking. See anything?

Then do the battery positive post to the fuse blocks, while cranking. Poke random fuses. Headlight, radio, whatever. See anything?

You have a bad connection somewhere, so it only has severe voltage drop while loaded. The dvom is to measure this drop, the cranking is to cause this load.

Okay I'll be checking all of these things ( by the way thank you for the help and being so detailed ), only thing i need some help understanding is for example, how would i check while cranking if it does not crank, would turning the key even though there is no crank mean the same thing?
 

xci.ed6

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No cranking will show a massive voltage drop.

Up to ~.5v is normal
~1.5v is dim/slow
~3v is just 'clicking
3v+ is dead

Rough guess, btw.
 

Akuza

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Alright, again I can't say enough thank you. I am writing all these down to get to after work, I reckon checking the fuses is just a matter of checking them with the multi meter on continuity as far as the battery positive to fuse block, I don't really know where that is so I'll google it.
 

xci.ed6

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Set on volts.

Example:
If you have 12.6v on the battery, and 12.4 from the fuse to the chassis, you will measure 0.2v of drop. Say 0.1v is what you will see on positive, from the battery positive terminal to the fuse. And you will see 0.1v on the ground, from the battery negative to the chassis. 0.1. + 0.1 + 12.4 = 12.6

Now say you crank, 11.5v at the battery, 9.8v at the fuse. Then you see 0.1v at the chassis, and find 1.6v positive...you found where you problem is!
 
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