2000 honda accord f23a4. stupid code keeps coming on. when i open the gas cap i no longer hear the vacuum sound from opening. so im sure i have a leak. gas mileage is still good. is that the evap canister? common fixes? maybe gas cap?
a p1456 leak is on the gas tank side, not so much canister, etc. So gas cap is the place to start, then fuel filler neck, and so on. I've had this code for a few years now but even after having the car smoke tested I still couldn't find it.
Someone here said the gas tank likes to rust out on the front driver side so that would also be something to possibly check. Good luck.
He's probably talking about me.
Had this on both my 6gs and both times it was a rusted out tank.
I had made a thread on how to change the gas tank but something happened to photobucket and now the pics wont show up.
so its fine if i just leave it the way it is? it wont do anything?
The PO1456 code covers quite a few things. Honda says replace the gas cap first. Then it goes on to checking the fuel tank, fuel filler line and vent line, then it moves on to other parts of the fuel system (under the car). I didn't have a code 1456, but I did have a fuel tank leak (mine was in 3 places on the rear tank seam, and would make a big puddle of fuel on the ground, and the car stunk of fuel.
Most times, it's the cap though. Keep in mind that a rusty fuel tank won't throw a PO1456 code. But, those of us in the northern climates are used to rust, and we know what it effects.
I had the code for 3 years on Connie.
I noticed no difference after fixing it, aside from not having a CEL, and I drive Connie a LOT. I only changed the tank because it was becoming quite the leak and I needed to get some exhaust work involving welding done.
If you need to pass emissions, you still can without fixing anything; when you reset the code by unhooking the battery, it takes about 1/3 of a tank of gas for it to come back on. Your monitor for "evaporative emissions system" will scan as "not ready". You are allowed one "not ready" here in Ontario; as long as everything else comes back "ready", your overall result will still be a pass.
Why didn't you just pull fuse #13 (passenger side fuse box) to clear the code? That what I did on my wife's car (2000 Accord) when I needed to clear codes whenever I did "engine related" work before I bought my nice code reader (I can clear codes with it), as it can read real time/live data.
I think if you had less than a half a tank, you probably could clear the code, and then run it thru emissions testing and pass. I'm not 100% sure, as we don't have emissions testing here in Michigan.