P0301, p0302, p0304, p0305, p0306, p0300, p1399...

[Baller]

Needing some input on a gaggle of codes that just showed up.

A little history:
2002 3L Accord EX 4dr
214K mi
No mods
New timing belt at 130K mi, 9 years ago
I did plugs, coil packs and adjusted valves at 211k mi that got rid of a P1399 code that was rough at idle and running.
Now, it sputters at idle, but runs smooth, at times, in neutral revved up. When driving it sputters under acceleration or under load, like up a hill, but smooth when cruising.
I drove it new off the lot March 17th, 2002. Never anything significant replaced. It's been a boringly reliable vehicle.

What could be the cause of all the codes at once? I know I'm in the neighborhood of, or beyond, needing the timing belt replaced again. I was wondering if these are codes that will show up shortly before the timing belt goes. Thanks for any input anyone can give me, it's greatly appreciated.

 

[Cherryelky305]

No codes show before a t belt breaks.

I would ask what spark plugs were used and why did you replace the coils?

I would start with swapping the old coils in.

If anything other than ngk plugs were used thats suspect number one.

 

[Baller]

No codes show before a t belt breaks.

I would ask what spark plugs were used and why did you replace the coils?

I would start with swapping the old coils in.

If anything other than ngk plugs were used thats suspect number one.

Thanks for the reply. Here is my original P1399 problem. I was a bit discouraged I didn't get any replies, but glad I got the problem solved. Before doing the coil packs, I replaced all the plugs. They were well overdue. The plugs I installed are NGK V-Power.

I may have been a bit hasty, but I trashed all the old coil packs. The reason I thought it could be the belt is all the codes all at once. Could the belt stretch enough to kill the timing causing misfires on, basically, all cylinders? What would cause all the cyclinders to misfire? I could see a plug/coil or two, but 5 out of 6 all at the same time?

 

[Cherryelky305]

The belt wont cause those codes, even if its due.

Did you use oem coil packs?



Usually when i see this code its plugs or egr.



If the egr valve is stuck open it will misfire.

Do you have access to a scanner that displayes egr value?



If i recall. 1.25 volts at idle is the max lift of the egr valve before problems arise.

Tapping the egr valve may provide hill billy diagnostic results.

 

[Baller]

Did you use oem coil packs?

The coils I bought weren't OEM. Here's what I purchased. The EGR sounds more like the problem. Like I said, a cylinder or two misfiring may have me thinking a coil, but 5 all at the same time makes me suspicious of something systemic that all cylinders have in common.

Usually when i see this code its plugs or egr.

If the egr valve is stuck open it will misfire.

This is new to me. Thanks, I'll have to look into this.

Do you have access to a scanner that displayes egr value?

If i recall. 1.25 volts at idle is the max lift of the egr valve before problems arise.

I just have a cheap wifi dongle that I use the OBDCarDoctor app to read with. I'll have to check it out to see if I'm able to see the status of the EGR valve.

Tapping the egr valve may provide hill billy diagnostic results.

I'm always up for hill billy diagnostics.

Thanks again for the input. I'll let you know what I find.

 

[Eclipse99fwb]

Just had a accord a few weeks ago at the shop with these codes. Turned out the egr port in the intake manifold had bilt up carbon and was clogged. Pull your intake manifold (very easy too do) and check the port on the bottom side near the throttle body. If its clogged you will need to use a small drill bit and break it loose (careful not to go to deep). Than you will need to clean out the manifold using some carb cleaner. Hope this helps.

 

[Baller]

Spent $58 on a new EGR valve and she's back to purring like a kitten.

Thanks for all the info that people provided here.

 

[Baller]

Just had a accord a few weeks ago at the shop with these codes. Turned out the egr port in the intake manifold had bilt up carbon and was clogged. Pull your intake manifold (very easy too do) and check the port on the bottom side near the throttle body. If its clogged you will need to use a small drill bit and break it loose (careful not to go to deep). Than you will need to clean out the manifold using some carb cleaner. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the reply. A few years ago, I had an EGR code come up with no misfiring. I took the intake off and cleaned the ports, like you mentioned, except I didn't use a drill. Everything worked out and no problems since. If it comes up again, I'll take the intake off and get the carb cleaner out.

7 years ago I changed jobs. My new job is a mile from my home. I think I'm doomed to EGR problems as my car rarely gets up to operating temp.

 

[Baller]

Still got "problems." It starts up, idles and runs but there is an irregular sputter. You can really hear it at the exhaust, but under the hood it sounds fine. In the car, you can feel the little sputter. When it gets revved, you can feel it at the beginning. As it revs up it smooths out. All this with no codes, though. What do you guys think? Below is a video I just took.

https://youtu.be/7U7u1DSkf7Y

 

[Baller]

Things are getting worse. Still has the sputter like in the video I posted. The sputter is really effecting the performance. From idle to 3k-3.5k I can really flog it and get a very weak response. Once it spins up to 3-3.5k it really goes like it should. I talked to a local auto parts store guy and he seemed to think it's air restriction somewhere. It doesn't really make sense to me. If it's air starved, wouldn't it be more starved at a higher RPM/demand? Same thing goes for fuel demand. All of this is with no codes. What do you all think? What should I look into first? Thanks for any help you can provide.