Starting issue

GERM

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Hi guys/gals

Looking for some input on an issue I've been having with my 98 accord.
Issue:
Car starting idling low at stops. In some occasions so low that it would stall.
I would loose power while driving. Stepping on gas would do nothing.
Car would turn on, I let it sit for a few minutes then it would drive as if nothing happens for about half a mile or so before issue would come back.
Now the car won't stay on. It will turn on For about a split second before shutting off.
The car:
1998 accord 4 cylinder A/T 204k miles.
What I've done:
When my car turned 200k I replaced the following just to be on the safe side.
New distributor.
New NGK plugs and wires.
New air filter.
At 203k:
new MAP sensor, had similar issues to what is going on right now. It's a OEM brand sensor.
New fuel pump, because I thought it was going out, but it was just the MAP sensor.
New CAT at 196k
no CEL.

Any input will be appreciated.
Thank you for your time.
 
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DarkSideAccord

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is it getting worse by the day? same thing happened on mine when my catalytic converter got clogged... the motor sounded like it was choking and eventually stall... put your hand near the muffler and have someone rev the motor... if it's the clogged catalytic converter, u won't feel much exhaust fumes coming out
 

Rusty Accord

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Since you have a fairly new cat, new plugs, wires, distributor, air filter, fuel pump and MAP sensor, along with no codes, IDK. But what's happening should be throwing a code. Have you checked the coolant level? Just mentioning it, as an air bubble/pocket will cause funky action of the IAC.
 

Sketch o5

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some of those issues sound similar to problems i had when the ignition switch in my old accord went bad. could be the issue.
 

GERM

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I'm assuming the issue is that is not getting enough air some how. If it was the ignition switch wouldn't the issue only happen when i try to start the car?
Or can it also affect the vehicle while it's being driven?
I did notice my car having a small surges in lost of power a week before it got worse.
Example. I would be driving 50mph at less say 3500rpm it would go down to about 3100rpm by itself for about a split second.
 

GERM

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So here is something embarrassing.
My fuel gauge was still reading fuel in the tank, but i started getting the feeling that it was inaccurate. I replaced the fuel pump my self. I am assuming that the fuel measuring device attach to the filter did not go down all the way. Since we ruled the most common things out; I figured it wouldn't hurt to add 2 gallons of fuel. Little ******* started right up. I drove it around my neighbor hood and one time on the street for about 15 minutes with no issues. Only small issue is that from time to time at stops it is still idling low 400-500rpm, but nothing lower. I think I'll just clean the IACV and hopefully that resolves the issue. Hopefully this was my problem and not some sort of coincidence.
Thank you again for your guy's input and time.
P.S. if anyone has a good thread, info or video that shows how to remove that IACV thats completely obstructed, that would be great. Can't seem to find a decent one.
 

J Chronic

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Did you check/change fuel filter,pressure and tps? Also for vacuum leaks? If you bent the float or only changed the pump itself. It'll read inaccurate.
 

GERM

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I remember that the fuel pump I received was a little bit bigger than my old one. I also recalled that the filter pad wouldn't go all the way down because it will come in contact with the pump or some other component. I did not replaced the TPS.
As for the IACV I just ended up taking the whole top part of the intake manifold off. Its a good thing, 19 years of carbon build up is insane. I was literally scraping chunks off with a flathead screwdriver.
I just hope i can put it back together correctly. I have never dismantled an intake manifold before, but you'll never learn if you don't try.
 
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