Starting issue

[GERM]

So finally got around to bleeding the coolant system.
Car initially started surging between 1k and 1.8k. After ten minutes it surged between 1k and 1.1k constantly like a case of bad hiccups. I figured it would go away soon . 30+ minutes of running and no sign of a remedy.
Noticed my check engine light came on. It gave me two codes of P0505(iddle control system malfunction)
From my research most people were saying to either clean or replace the IACV but mine wasn't acting up before and i also cleaned it on the process. All the sensors and hoses are hooked back up. The only thing i can think of is that i bent the metal intake gasket when i removed the top. I bent it back in place though, but maybe not well enough.
Any input is much appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Blazinqwickly]

This is a common cause of not bleeding all the air properly out of the cooling system a lot of the time, you need to make sure you have the interior thermostat turned to the heat side so it opens up the heater core as well to allow a proper bleed.

Allow the car to get hot enough you hear the radiator fan kick on and allow the fans to cycle on and off several times, this insures the thermostat is opening and closing releasing any trapped air that might not have made it's way out of the system yet.
You could try jacking up the front of the car to elevate the radiator and then run the engine for a good 30 minutes or so (make sure you hit full temp) with the radiator cap off to let all air work out of the system. If you see coolant level drop, add more coolant with the engine running until it's topped off and staying full.

What's happening is you have coolant splashing onto the temp sensor but it's not actually submerged in the coolant all the time, so in the meantime it's like your idle control (choke) is kicking on and off repeatedly until you hit close to normal operating temp.

The first time I saw this happen was on a old DA Integra and my friend was stumped till I came over and re- did it for him and got it to idle right again.

If you do all of this and truly do it right and still have a high idle, then move onto that manifold gasket you are concern about possible causing a vacuum leak.

 

[GERM]

I parked it at a slight steep.
I tried bleeding the system for over 30mins.
I also turned the knob on to hot. I followed pretty much the steps i saw on the youtube videos.
Fans kick in about 4 times also.
I went to get a replacement gasket and the guy told me i was better off with the gasket i have now. The one's they sell are paper gaskets. He said to disconnect the battery and let the ECU reprogram itself before I bleed it again. I'm going to do that along with what was suggest here.
Thank you.

 

[GERM]

So I tried bleeding the system again and still not solved. Bleed it for nearly 40 mins. At a steep with the heater knob at max. I ran it till no air bubbles were coming out the funnel when I would squeeze the hoses.
I'm at the point where I'm just going to dismantle it and try all over again.
Maybe I crossed some of the hoses. I didnt take pictures nor did i mark them. I went off f23a1 pictures i found online for reference.

 

[GERM]

I keep getting contradictions as to how the small 3 hoses next to the MAP sensor go. Mainly the one the goes through the top of the valve cover. Some images it shows that it goes to the middle one. Other pictures shows that it goes to the one on the right.
I have a 98 ex f23a1. If anyone with this engine could post a picture of their engine, it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe this is why I'm still having an issue.
Thank you.

 

[GERM]

Two months later and I still can't get it to run correctly.
I replace her gasket. Ran smoke through the system and no leaks. Now my car idles and stuters slowly up to 1700rpm. Exhaust smells of gas and when I step on the throttle the motor shuts off.
Any ideas?
I got two codes for p0505.
I have also replaced the aicv.
Thank you.

 

[SupraGuy]

I'd test the IACV wiring, to make sure that it's okay. I'm currently less than impressed with the electrical system quality in my '99EX, so I wouldn't rule out an electrical fault. It looks to me like the IACV runs off of a stepper motor, so it shouldn't be too difficult to test for correct operation.

Really rich mixture is also problematic, probably causing the issues where you step on the gas and the engine dies.

Another possibility is a bad ECU. The late 90s were really bad for a lot of Japanese cars where the ECU modules got bad capacitors, which cause all sorts of problems when they fail. It may be worthwhile looking for another ECU from a wrecker.

Unless the ECU sets the IACV code when it can't get the mixture right, in which case one of more leaking injectors could do it. I haven't looked at how the fuel rail is mounted on the F23, but some of these are relatively easy to pull the fuel rail with the injectors, and then you can start the fuel pump and see if they leak. That will either be a simple test, or a royal pain in the rear. (On the Supra, it's easier to make a separate testing rig for the injectors, and probably a half a day to pull and reinstall them. On a Mitsu that I had, it was 3 minutes to pull the rail and jumper the fuel pump, then re-install the rail.)

 

[GERM]

Supraguy.

Thank you for your input. As I was reading your comment on checking the wiring; A light bulb went off. I spray painted the top part of my intake manifold with about three coats of temperature resistant paint. So maybe the ground wire that goes on the side of the manifold is not making proper connection. I'm going to scrape the paint off and see what happens.
Thank you.

 

[Nam1911a1]

My cat imploded sending material downstream and clogged my muffler. The cat was free flowing but the muffler was the choke point.

Check that.

 

[GERM]

so....
ten months later, she's back on the road. I was so upset about her not running correctly after numerous times of trying to bleed the coolant system that I bought a 97 camry to drive and resell. Bought a 97 camry with 148 original miles for $1200. it was my first toyota ever and honestly it was a horrible experience. The Camry was pretty clean, but the transmission went out at 149k. paid $800 to replace and sold it. then I just took my accord to the mechanic: it was $645 for a new aicv, radiator, timing belt and water pump. car sat for 10 months and now the transmission is acting weird it sometimes shifts smooth and sometimes small delays and or slightly rough kicks went shifting. it usually shifts smoother after its warmed up. I bought some honda atf and some lucas transmission fix. should I even replace the atf? it hasn't been changed for 124k. anyone had any similar issues? on a lighter and almost unbelievable note, my brother just put 260k miles on his 2002 v6 accord with original engine and transmission.