Still low idle! Really?! Wow...

[redlinevtec]

A bad idle control valve doesnt always proceeed with a check engine light. But it should eventually. The brake booster is the black round looking thing right behind the master brake cylinder. There is a hose going from that to the trottle body, you can disconnect that guy and feed seafoam through there.

There will be a lot of white smoke.


How low does your idle go anyways? are we talking below 500 rpms?


I have one more question, was your car originally ULEV ENGINE? If so, your O2 sensors are wide band and its not compatable with the normal F23 engine. You may need to look into that as well.

Yeah, I figured out where the master brake booster line was the day you asked me if I ever Seafoamed. My buddy and I both used Seafoam on our cars in a parking lot. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes and let it rip. All came out pretty quick. I got a CEL, reset it, and never came back on. I scrubbed my intake manifold pretty good so I think the Seafoam had little effect.

My idle is pretty much at the bottom when I shift into gear. At idle in Neutral or Park, it sits around 780ish. Maybe 800, a little high if you ask me. I would decrease my idle but if I did I'm afraid I would stall. And I would increase my idle but that made the car shake more violently in gear at idle and my MPG's went to poop. Cleaning out the whole intake system made a significant improvement. I don't stall when shifting from Neutral to D4 at a stop light anymore and the idle is about 40% difference. Imagine how quiet it will be once I fix this problem?

So to answer your question, my idle is below 500 sometimes. It's really damn low. Then I think the IACV tries to bring it back up.

That's a good question about ULEV. No my car is a stock F23A1. 98 Honda Accord LX. Checked the VIN, no ULEV or SULEV. Stock. I don't think ULEV engines came out the first year. I think in 99 they did. Not sure. But no, regular F23A1 Vtec engine.

Any other ideas? I'm going to swap IACV's, throttle bodies & egr valves with my buddy this week. I'm not going to get my hopes up high. But we'll just have to see. I do have a lack in power, and like I said earlier when I first pull down on the throttle cable in the engine bay, there is a delay. Second time there is no delay. Maybe it is the TPS OR ECU. We'll just have to see...

Stupid car...

 

[Rainman215]

Hey for a while now ive been having a really weird idling problem too. When i get to a red light or a stop sign the car starts shaking more violently the more i slow down and once im at a complete stop, after 2-3 seconds it starts to idle normally. I was getting CELs but everytime id get ready to head to the shop the light would go off, and when i didnt have a chacne to get ther the light would stay on. Today driving from maryland back to philly (2-3 hours) i started having more problems. Once back in philly at red lights my RPMs were dropping crazy low as in to 200-300 RPM. The car stalled a few times because of this and then I figured the only way to get it home would be to put it in neutral at red lights and then keep the RPMs up manually. After about 10 minutes of doing that i decided to see if i could keep it in drive without stalling again. And for the remaining 15 minutes of the drive i was fine.

I dont want to thread jack but i think its easier for people to get help in one thread instead of 50 similar threads. Im going to the shop on monday to find out what the CEL code is.

 

[HondaLuver83]

swap throttlebodys and see if that helps. Im leaning more towars a idle control valve or tps sensor. Why dont u find the specifications for the ohm range. then you should use a multimeter and check the resistance for that part.

 

[redlinevtec]

Alright guys, come Tuesday I'll let you know how it goes. Wish me luck

 

[redlinevtec]

Unbelievable...
Alright so this past Tuesday my buddy and I got to work on our cars. I cleaned out his IACV and swapped his with mine. Same thing. So it's not the IACV. Next I cleaned out his EGR valve and swapped it with mine. Same thing. Next we swapped out spark plug wires. Same thing. Lastly we were about to swap out throttle bodies but we didn't since his throttle body was corroded where the coolant line enters and broke off the metal tube. So now we have to hit up a junk yard and find the bottom part with the three screws for his throttle body to fix his little problem. But if my throttle body wasn't functioning I would be getting a code.

I am out of ideas. I really am. I stall almost every other time when I switch from Neutral to D4 at a light. I don't wanna screw up my new engine because the whole damn engine vibrates rough and moves my hood. I'm leaning towards the transmission torque converter now.

So now I decided I would have someone else put their hands on my car. It's at a shop and the shop's mouth dropped when I told them everything I did. I have a feeling their going to have a hard time as well.

*Edit*
Oh yeah I forgot to mention, I took out the ECU, opened it up and checked for any burn spots on both sides. I didn't find anything. It's all nice and green. Not sure if that necessarily means it's good but I think so...

 

[redlinevtec]

I decided I'm done with the autotragic. I found a car with a complete 5spd today. If I can still get it for the price we agreed on today, I'm not looking back...

Let me know if any of you guys have any more ideas before I do the swap...
Bump

 

[HondaLuver83]

I decided I'm done with the autotragic. I found a car with a complete 5spd today. If I can still get it for the price we agreed on today, I'm not looking back...

Let me know if any of you guys have any more ideas before I do the swap...
Bump

Do it, the car is much more fun to drive. But I seriously regret not getting an H22 transmission, the f23 gears are super long.

 

[redlinevtec]

Do it, the car is much more fun to drive. But I seriously regret not getting an H22 transmission, the f23 gears are super long.

I got a steal on a complete 5spd swap except for some cosmetic stuff like the shifter boot and knob. But I bit the bullet and I'm going to start tearing parts out this Tuesday. Automatic transmission shifts smooth as butter. If anyone is interested in it, let me know. I been wanting to swap to 5spd regardless of my issue I have now...

If anyone has the same issue I have now and was hoping I would figure it out, sorry. Unfortunately me spending hundreds of dollars and swapping parts didn't fix it. Especially all of you that have been watching this thread and never put any input. So we'll never know for sure. Maybe someone in the future can figure this out. For now we'll never know.

thread closed...

 

[99accord boi]

i call dibs on the rear knuckles foo

 

[redlinevtec]

Just a quick minor update, not that this really applies to me anymore I hope. Hopefully this whole fiasco is related to when I was autotragic...But you never know.

When I had my automatic transmission, I would get a low rough idle in D4 or R in gear. I was talking to my friend Hasan at the recent SoCal meet and he said it may be a check valve which is part 4 shown below. Or it's formal name "JOINT, PURGE".


That part is very light, like a cheap plastic connector. Apparently he said if you can't blow through it, then it's bad. But I could see clear through part 4 and blow through it. I'm not sure if he was talking about the part below. Because I could not blow through it. Here is a picture below.

I can't blow through this part. Does anyone know if it opens up with continuity or is it always suppose to be open? There is no part number for the photo above on the Honda illustration. Hopefully someone can input about this part.