Window Regulator and Glass Run Channel Replacement

HomerJay

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This is most likely one of the more bland DIYs you've seen. It's what I'd call a "practical" DIY as it's got nothing to do with making your car look or perform better...;)

Somehow the upper rear corner of the "glass run channel" gasket was being grabbed by the window whenever I raised the window. Over the years, this resulted in stripped teeth on the window regulator and eventually the motor was unable to close the window completely.

This is what my regulator looked like (additional damage photos below):
20080105-06.jpg


I finally got around to changing the regulator this weekend...:D...it's nice to be able to roll that window up. Considering the glass run channel was the catalyst, I replaced this part as well.

This DIY is for the coupe. From the service manual, it appears the regulators for four doors are a completely different style than those used on the coupe.

What you'll need:
  • A broken window regulator or screwed up glass run channel. Otherwise you probably won't be doing this work...:p
  • Replacement regulator - $68
  • Replacement glass run channel - listed as "UPPER WINDOW SEAL" (on the bottom of the linked page) - $36
  • Socket set (10mm and 8mm)
  • Torx driver (T-15)
1) Remove the door panel. I didn't take photos during the process but it's pretty easy. Remove two screws (in door latch and door handle "cup"), disconnect the door latch from the metal rod. Then I usually start on the hinge side and very gently pull the panel off. Remove the cover opposite the side mirror, lift the door panel a bit. There are a few wiring harnesses and a light bulb to remove at that point. Once the door panel is off, remove the two screws holding the metal clip in the middle of the door.

20080105-01.jpg


2) Now remove the white plastic cover. I simply peeled it back from top to bottom. I was unable to get the clip holding the light wire removed so I cut the plastic where the red line is below:

20080105-02.jpg


3) Lower the glass (I removed the door switches from the door panel and reconnected the blue wire connector) until you can see the two bolts holding the window in place. Be sure to hold the glass so as to not drop into the door when it's removed. Remove both bolts. Remove the glass by pulling up, and towards the outside. This is what you'll have now:

20080105-03.jpg


4) Scribe a mark around the bolt marked in green above. Disconnect the wiring harness that is in the corner of the door on the hinge side. The wiring harness disconnects from a clip that is holding it in place. Loosen the wire from another clip in the door. Remove the red bolts, and loosen the blue bolts. Remove the regulator through the hole marked with a red arrow.

(At this point I was starting to run out of sunlight so took fewer pictures)

5) Remove the torx bolts that are holding the motor to the regulator. BE CAREFUL as there is a spring that will release when the motor is removed.

6) Remove the spring from the old regulator and install into the replacement regulator.

7) Grease the joints of the regulator assembly and the point at which the motor gear fits into the regulator.

This is what my damaged regulator looked like:

20080105-04.jpg


20080105-05.jpg


20080105-06.jpg


20080105-07.jpg


8) Reattach the motor to the regulator. I had a bit of trouble with getting one of the screws past the regulator gear. Since the new regulator came with new screws, I used all 4 holes instead of the 3 originally used.

Reversing the steps at this point would complete the regulator replacement. If you need to change your glass run channel the next few steps will explain that process.

9) Loosen the three bolts holding the side mirror. Remove the nut marked in red below. The silver track marked with the red arrow is what we want to remove. You will need to remove the nuts listed in step 10 before the track can be removed.

20080105-08.jpg


10) Remove the gold-covered bolt in the middle of the door (in line with the nut you just removed):

20080105-09.jpg


And the second bolt a little further down:

20080105-10.jpg


11) Remove three screws to remove the outer vertical trim (on the vertical door edge). The top screw is hidden below the weatherstripping:

20080105-11.jpg


12) Now back to the mirror side of the door. A little twisting (and maybe some more loosening) will remove the silver track (marked with red arrow):

20080105-08.jpg


13) Once the track is loosened, the remaining portion of the strip can be removed from the window channel. Once the entire piece has been loosened, the track and strip can be removed from the same opening used to remove the regulator (marked with red arrow):

20080105-03.jpg


14) Remove the weatherstripping from the track, replace with the new glass run channel. A la Haynes, installation is reverse of removal...;) The end of the new glass run channel near the door lock was longer than I needed so I cut the extra material to match the weatherstripping I removed.

Hope you enjoyed this DIY as much as possible...:p...it's my first and I'll be the first to admit not what I'd call a "fun" DIY. Although, the quiet ride down the highway is certainly a welcome update...:D

It took me ~2-1/2 to 3 hours to complete both tasks. I took my time, although it was getting dark. Thankfully, I had an Energizer tripod flashlight on hand which helped once the sun went down...:)
 
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98ACCORD

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hey thanks for the DIY

my window doesn't all the way either it like pops out of place half way through i have to like pull it back then bring the window up.


so do you think i would have to replace both the regulator and the channel?

thanks
 

HomerJay

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hey thanks for the DIY

my window doesn't all the way either it like pops out of place half way through i have to like pull it back then bring the window up.


so do you think i would have to replace both the regulator and the channel?

thanks
My weatherstripping (glass run channel) was actually being pushed into the gap where the glass was supposed to go. If your weatherstripping isn't damaged, I probably wouldn't go through the trouble to replace it.
 

CDsDontBurn

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bump.

found this a few weeks ago because i needed to take apart my car's passenger window to replace the regulator and all the pictures came up no problem. now that i'm actually doing the work, the pictures the pictures don't come up at all. tried FF, Chrome, and IE8.

does the OP or anybody else still happen to have these pictures?
 

Revenuite

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The pics are hosted on a domain called sitetown.com, which is offline. :(
 

CDsDontBurn

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I found a few DIY videos on YouTube. The ones I found were that of a 4th gen accord and 5th gen Accord. The window regulator mechanics structures are basically the same between 4th, 5th, and 6th gen Accords.
 

Revenuite

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I have mine apart right now and will take some pics. The difference with the 2dr coupe is that the regulator bolts attaching the window are best accessed with the window lowered, near the very bottom position of the door. There is a hole for the front bolt, and open access for the rear. Atleast for the passenger side, that is.

I picked up a regulator from rockauto for $22+7 shipping, should get it in a few days. My motor seemed fine, but regulator teeth, where the regulator puts the window at the top of the door, had worn, causing the window to 'click' repeatedly near the top as the motor gear slipped over the worn regulator gears.
 
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ranand

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Homerjay's post is excellent. Just wanted to add you don't need to remove the bolts on the side and near the mirror. Also the screw at the top left can remain in. The seal can be slid into the metal groove held by those bolts. Silicone spray oil on the channel makes this a lot easier. Thanks for your help HomerJay and CDsdontBurn.
 

Chris Catignani

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Thanks @HomerJay for in info. I was having similar issues...but it was a different problem.
Window would not go all the way up....but it was due to the this:
The mid rivet had worked loose and eventually mis-aligning the teeth.
 

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