ZFreak's 2001 Accord LX Sedan (5 speed) F20B Swap Build Thread

ZFreak

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I picked this 2001 Accord LX 5 speed up from the original owner - an older couple in their 60's. When I purchased it, it had about 170k miles on it and the paint was in need of some work (not to the point of repainting, but it had haze all over it). I went to town the first weekend I had it and got that sorted out. It still has a lot of door dings, and some damage on the front fenders in the same spot - which I believe is most likely from backing out from a parking stone and yanking the bumper off. So there is still some work there.


I bought this for $3000 as a daily driver. The original owner did absolutely nothing maintenance-wise other than changing the oil and putting tires on it, which ultimately would end up the reason for me replacing the engine. (read on)

First thing was to do a full and complete timing belt service on the F23A1 as it HAD NEVER BEEN DONE. Yes, that's right - 170k miles on the original timing belt, plugs, seals, coolant, etc. SHOCKED that it made it that far. The belt was in poor condition. Once that was out of the way, I noticed over the next several thousand miles that the car was using a little bit of oil. I would add a quart maybe every 2000 miles or so which I really didn't think anything of. This began getting worse to the point where it is now of using about 1 quart every fuel fillup (400-450 miles), but the plugs aren't covered in oil. The underside is bone-dry. When it is cold out in the morning and I warm the car up, I can smell the oil burning and when I first accelerate (lightly) on my street after the car has warmed up, I can see blueish smoke (not condensation) behind me.

Not wanting to just "replace the engine" with a used F23A1, I started looking into the F20B engine (just to be different than the usual H22 or H23 swap), and decided that was the route I was going to go.


So currently I am getting parts for the swap and this is what I have so far:


- 1999 F20B factory 5 speed (has larger cams and TB) engine w/T2T4 LSD transmission. Purchased from a local supplier here in Dallas, TX.
- ARP H22A4 Head Studs
- Custom built Carillo-CP Rods and Pistons (to withstand 9000 rpm)
- ARP Intake manifold extended studs (broached studs)
- Hondata Intake manifold gasket
- Exedy Clutch and 8lb Fidanza Flywheel for H22A4
- Brian Crower Dual valve springs with billet STEEL retainers (titanium will require replacing or adjustments more often), BC NA stage 2 cams, and BC keepers.
- Supertech valve guides and valve stem seals (again for H22A4)
- Manley custom made intake and exhaust valves
- KS manual timing belt tensioner
- KS new OEM H22 oil pump with balance shaft delete kit
- Rosko modified upper and lower F20B intake manifold (not running the EuroR intake manifold because I can't find one for a reasonable price, and Shawn can't find one either).
- ATI Crank Pulley
- Hytech (Rep) Header and High Flow Cat (H22A4)



Anyway, just wanted to get the thread started. Pics will follow here shortly.



Mods currently on my accord:
- 18" x 7.5" +30 Volk TE37's
- Eibach Sportline Springs + Eibach shocks
- Eibach front and rear sway bars
- Ingalls front upper control arms
- Ingalls lower rear links
- Rear disc conversion w/100% new parts
- Stoptech drilled rotors on all 4 corners
- Stoptech "street" pads (dusty!!!)
- FSTB
- Factory intake resonator removed
- K&N Drop in filter
- MTEC 4300k HID's
- 5% tint on all windows except 20% on front two windows.
- All interior lights are LED.



Have a new OEM valve cover too.. :)



















OK, There is one thing that I have run into that has FRUSTRATED me to no end and that is the INCREDIBLE amount of INCORRECT information out there on the internet for this engine (F20B). I am spending a (lot) of my money to set the record straight:

INTERNET: K20A ARP Connecting Rod Bolts (part #208-6003) will fit the stock F20B Rods.

TRUTH: THEY WILL NOT FIT! I spent $100 based on more than one person saying they will fit, and they are thicker and longer than the F20B bolts. They WILL NOT WORK. Other than having them make a custom set ($$$) or finding one from the old F23A1 group buy on here a few years ago, you will need the 98-2002 F23A1 Rod bolt. They are about $3 each (my dealer "lists them" for $11.10 each LOL). Part Number 13204-P8A-A01 (Honda),

Stock F20B/F23A1 Connecting rod bolt (#13204-P8A-A01) specs:
- 10mm, 12 point head
- 51.50mm (2.029") overall length
- 8.0mm (0.315") thickness/diameter

ARP K20A Connecting rod bolt (#208-6003) specs:
- 10mm, 12 point head
- 62.50mm (2.461") overall length
- 8.0mm (0.315") shank, 9.0mm (0.355") at threads, so it is considered a 9mm diameter.






INTERNET: H22A4, H23A Non-VTEC, and F22A1 Valves will fit the F20B Head.

TRUTH: THEY WILL NOT FIT (H22A4 without modification). I spent $150 buying intake and exhaust valves (one of each, for each of the 3 engines) to find this out because new OEM F20B valves are $40 and $60 EACH for Intake and Exhaust, respectively. I am having custom valves made by Manley for $350. See the pictures below for PROOF.

UPDATE: As far as exhaust valves go, after measuring the exhaust valves, the F20B exhaust valves are IDENTICAL in every way to the H22A4 exhaust valves. See measurements below.













VALVE SPECS (measured by me):

NOTE: H23A is the NON-VTEC, US-Spec 92-96 Prelude engine, not the Torneo/JDM H23 VTEC engine.

INTAKE VALVES (Face) (Length) (Stem Diameter) (OEM Honda Part Number):
F20B: 34mm (1.338"), 107.00mm (4.212"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14711-PCB-000
H23A: 34mm (1.338"), 104.00mm (4.095"), 6.5mm (0.256"), 14711-PT2-000
H22A4:35mm (1.380"), 107.00mm (4.212"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14711-P13-000
F22A1:34mm (1.338"), 112.00mm (4.410"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14711-PT3-A00

EXHAUST VALVES (Face) (Length) (Stem Diameter):
F20B: 30mm (1.182"), 107.00mm (4.212"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14721-PCB-000
H23A: 29mm (1.142"), 104.00mm (4.095"), 6.5mm (0.256"), 14721-PT2-000
H22A4:30mm (1.182"), 107.00mm (4.212"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14721-P13-000
F22A1:29mm (1.142"), 124.000mm (4.882"), 5.5mm (0.215"), 14721-P0J-A00







INTERNET: H22A4 timing belt will fit the F20B.

TRUTH: It will physically "fit" and the internet is saying that one is a 155 tooth and one is a 156 tooth. This is false. They are both 155 tooth. The difference (verified by myself and by HMotorsOnline where I got the OEM F20B Timing belt from) is that the F20B belt is the same length, but it is actually WIDER (as are the cam gears). GET THE RIGHT BELT FOR THIS ENGINE. You'll thank yourself later. The crankshaft pulley is still the same width (PCB vs P13) but the cam gears appear to be different.

F20B Belt #01641-PCB-305:

- Width: 24mm (0.945")
- Tooth Distance (tooth to tooth): 8.00mm (0.315")
- Number of Teeth: 155

H22A Belt #14400-P13-014:

- Width: 23mm (0.9055")
- Tooth Distance (tooth to tooth): 8.00mm (0.315")
- Number of Teeth: 155












INTERNET: H22A4 Valve springs, guides, and valve stem seals, as well as camshaft and camshaft seals will all fit the F20B.

TRUTH: This is correct. Identical sizes.



Other Information:
Head Studs/Bolts:
OEM F20B Head Studs/Bolts:
- Overall Length:
- Diameter: 12mm
ARP H22 Head Studs (#208-4304):
- Overall Length: 209.55mm (8.250")
- Diameter: 12mm

Main Studs/Bolts:
OEM F20B Main Studs:
- Overall Length: 131.50mm (5.177")
- Diameter: 10mm (same thread pitch as H22A4)
OEM H22A4 Main Studs (Part # 90007-PAA-T01):
- Overall Length: 131.50mm (5.177")
- Diameter: 10mm (same thread pitch as F20B too)
ARP H22A4 Head Studs (#208-5401):
- Overall Length: 136mm (5.351")
- Diameter: 11mm (wider shank, but same thread pitch as F20B and H22A)
 
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Sil2DrV6

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Nice to have you in the game. It really amazes me, when these cars run like forever, even w/ crappy maintenance.

- Stoptech "street" pads (dusty!!!)
Agreed. Lol
 

blackhawksfan18

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Car looks really good especially with those nice shoes. Can't wait to see the F20B as I was going to do one but didn't because I read somewhere on here that parts are hard to find. Makes sense since I don't think that motor was produced in the U.S. Good luck! :thumbsup:
 

ZFreak

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Parts aren't really that hard to find.

The head is identical to a H22A4 head, except for the valves are 1mm smaller intake and exhaust.

The block is different yes, but only in regards to bore size, crank, rods, pistons.

Otherwise a lot of it is basically a H22A4 from a prelude. Uses H22 water pump, thermostat,etc

Uses H22 valve springs, guides, seals, and so on. H22 clutch, flywheel, plugs, rear main seal, oil pump (pickup is different because the F20B uses a F23 oil pan).

I'll keep this up to date. Still collecting parts, but have acquired the engine/trans.
 
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ZFreak

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A few updated pics. I'm angry at the amount of incorrect information out there, and have made it a point to set this straight.


Also, upon tearing down this 5 speed F20B, the rod bearings were toast, and it had one rod bolt that actually snapped (with no effort at all) upon removal. I am having Carillo/CP make a custom set of rods and pistons for this engine. It will end up being a fully bulit top and bottom end.
 

ZFreak

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Parts aren't hard to find unless they are unique to this engine. As I've found when getting a valve job on my F20B head and needing new valves because these were beat to death.... but custom made ones in the US are cheaper than buying OEM ones from the guy in Singapore that sells them (looking at over $500 plus $80 shipping) for a new set of OEM F20B Valves.
 
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