1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
Nice Graph,still have bugs in 1st/2nd gear misfire. Shop is leaning towards factory ignition system blowing spark. Will have the car until next week +.
Want this thing perfect. Been almost 2 years.
6th Gen Forced Induction members and their numbers
- Thread starter 1bad6
- Start date
Nice Graph,still have bugs in 1st/2nd gear misfire. Shop is leaning towards factory ignition system blowing spark. Will have the car until next week +.
Want this thing perfect. Been almost 2 years.
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
They took them out infront of me and put them to .030
told me I need to replace the o ring seals around the spark tubes.2 are ripped and hanging inside the tub.
told me I need to replace the o ring seals around the spark tubes.2 are ripped and hanging inside the tub.
ninjacord
Well-Known Member
I'm boosted as well. 98 coupe F23a4 untuned 203 whp, 212 wtq @ 8psi
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
ngk brke7s
The go to turbo Honda plug 
. Works great. I would try to tighten the gap little by little and see at what point the problem goes away if at all. Wouldn't go smaller than 20 thousandths though. If it still cuts out at that point...probably a different problem. I was running 20 pounds on the civic and on OEM coil had no problem at 20 thousandths.
. Works great. I would try to tighten the gap little by little and see at what point the problem goes away if at all. Wouldn't go smaller than 20 thousandths though. If it still cuts out at that point...probably a different problem. I was running 20 pounds on the civic and on OEM coil had no problem at 20 thousandths.
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
Thanks man,I kept the car at the shop and see what they decide. I found the MSD 6A digital ignition with SS coil from summit racing, I can get next day ship for free for 229$ together. Then just going to run the AEM boost solenoid (97$) and just wire the 2 wires into the EMS and run it that way to get rid of any boost spikes. But they told me not to buy anything until the tuner comes back and checks it out.
So figured upgrading the systems will be best all around.
edit: offtopic,but will removing the EGR valve gain any power? or anything else I could do to gain hidden or lose power. Im kinda afraid of getting the unorthodox crank pulley.
So figured upgrading the systems will be best all around.
edit: offtopic,but will removing the EGR valve gain any power? or anything else I could do to gain hidden or lose power. Im kinda afraid of getting the unorthodox crank pulley.
I would never run a solid crank pulley when the motor relies on it for dampening. Unless you are replacing it with a performance harmonic balancer (like ATI or fluidampr), i would stick to stock.
I would think so long as AEM is not configured to drive the EGR solenoid, the solenoid would always be in a closed state and removing it would not really net you any benefits. I don't have any data to back this up, but I don't think it will free up any power if removed.
I would think so long as AEM is not configured to drive the EGR solenoid, the solenoid would always be in a closed state and removing it would not really net you any benefits. I don't have any data to back this up, but I don't think it will free up any power if removed.
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
Okay,so best bet is get tired of the cars power or wait till it blows,and then buy a spare motor and build it from ground up and make a monster!
