F23A1AT
Well-Known Member
Hmm good to know stuff here. I didn't think about the fact that these parts are mass produced so matching each set is impossible.
ya pretty much. we were both detailed in different areas. so with both posts he should know what he's in for haha.^basically the steps I provided him, no? I'm somewhat intoxicated, so reading your description right now and making coherent sense of it may not work out for me. Obviously I was not super detailed, but overall covered most of the main points.
not necessarily but theres no way of telling before getting the head off. unless you borescope it I guess but even then you can't really tell too much.I did something similar after I melted through the top of a piston in a Mazda B motor. (touch too much timing, oops)
pulled the piston and rod out, had new piston and rings installed on rod, stuck it back in.
Never even pulled the motor from the car.
It was still running fine 2 years later when it was sold to someone else, and they were still driving it a year after that to my knowledge.
as long as you've not scarred up the cylinder wall it can be done.
Chances are though, if it's not got compression it's probably already killed the cylinder wall.
So we pulled out the valves on the cylinder with low compression and the exhaust valves they dont look to good. They are very uneven all around. So im guessing this was my problem the entire time. How much will it cost to get a valve job on those valves? How much more would it be to get them all redone?