Hit a giant rock - car won't start

Update: Figured out the problem and wanted to update the thread in case it's ever googled.

Basically, I drove on it for about 15 minutes with an oil light on. When I was on the freeway, the cam shaft seized on the far right (passenger) side, but the crank kept spinning. It snapped the pin, rotated and then caught the cam shaft again. That's why the cam gear looked like it was at top dead center (but the shaft was not). That's also why it chugged like it was running super retarded, because the timing was off via the cam shaft. There was about a dozen teeth missing on the timing belt, too. I'm throwing in a new F23 this holiday break, so she should be right as rain soon. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.

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I've run into a bit of a puzzle with my 2000 4-cylinder manual Accord. I hit a giant boulder earlier in the summer on a city road and it left a huge dent in my oil pan. The oil light immediately came on so I pulled over and checked for leaks. There were none. I checked the oil level and it was raised noticeably. The car was still driving so I drove it home (about 5 minutes) and decided to get a new oil pan the next day from the junkyard. The next day I was driving on the freeway and just as I was going down a gentle decline (after about 15 minutes of driving) the engine cut out. I got it towed back to my place and I've been trying to figure it out since.

Basically, the car tries to start but it won't. It'll crank and you can hear maybe one combustion, but then it just goes back to cranking. If you lay on the gas full throttle you can get a combustion-crank-combustion-crank rhythm going and then it starts to stink like oil.

So far I've checked:
1. Oil pan - replaced with a spare H22 pan.
2. Oil pickup tube - it was dented as well, so I replaced it with a spare H23 one.
3. Fuel lines - undamaged.
4. Fuel pump - looks fine on visual inspection
5. Fuel upon priming - fuel squirts out (didn't check fuel pressure yet).
6. Spark - replaced spark plugs just for kicks.
7. Distributor - replaced with a junkyard one and there was no noticeable change.
8. Battery - bought a new one. Last one was old anyways and wouldn't hold a charge.
9. Compression - in the high 175-180 psi range on all four cylinders.
10. Ignition switch - I read that there was a recall so I took a multimeter and it works properly on all key positions.

The only other thing is a P1607 CEL that I've had for a few years now that started with cold weather. I've read that the only cure is to replace the ECU, so I've been waiting for a manual Accord to show up in the junkyard.

Any thoughts? I'm at a loss for ideas right now.

Check fuel pressure.
get a 'noid' light, check fuel inj signal
Check spark to the plug, pull em a lil, they'll make a 'crack!' sound

Oh, p1607, in your case, remove ecm, look CLOSE for a cracked solder joint. Reheat, melt that solder.

So P1607 are repairable? The web made it seem like you had to replace the whole unit. I guess that's starting point #1. I'll let you guys know how it works.

Well, some are f'd, yours only does it when it's cold. Makes me think temp is causing the silicon board to change, making the cracked joint no longer work.

Main relay had this prob on some cars, the I took the main out and melted em to fix em, no more probs after that!

Our prob happened when hot. Yours is when cold, a bit off there, but maybe the board flexes diff, idk, I would still check that.

Well, I took the ECU out and inspected it for at least half an hour and couldn't find anything obvious.

On another note, I can start the car if I lay on the gas full throttle (this also was the case on the day my car stalled out on me, so "no start" isn't quite accurate). It will slowly chug to life with a very, very rough idle and will die in a few seconds if I let go of the gas. It also stinks very much. I wonder if this would be a fuel pressure thing?

It could be, you got inj signal if it runs at all, and spark too.

Check the pressure.

Cracked solder is really hard to find, like 1/2 the size of a hair! Usually your looking at the base of each pin, it's where the solder is.
yours may not be cracked, I guess, but something, probly some $0.15 digikey part...

Ok, I got an ECU out of a 99 manual Accord that just popped up in the junkyard yesterday. I tried starting with that in my 2000 and it cranks but won't start. No combustion at all unlike with the original ECU.

Is this my car's immobilizer stopping me now? It looks like 1999 Accords have immobilizers as well. Should I be calling a locksmith to get my key configured for this ECU, or should I go back to checking the fuel pressure?...

****, I dunno bout your imobilizer prob...

Forgot/missed your oil pump prob. If it got suck-squish-blow, it almost does, but I'd still worry in the future. Change oil and check w/ a magnet.

All I can say, see if it gets spark, see if inj goes, see if it gets fuel, see if it gets air, exhausts, gotta go from square one.

What do you mean by "suck-squish-blow"? I did change the oil while it was sitting in my garage. I didn't see any metal particles in the oil pan.

I'm checking the fuel pressure next. Just need to buy a metric-to-SAE adapter for the kit. So expensive, lol. But still cheaper than a mechanic thus far. They'll just run the same checks I've already ran.