Update: Figured out the problem and wanted to update the thread in case it's ever googled.
Basically, I drove on it for about 15 minutes with an oil light on. When I was on the freeway, the cam shaft seized on the far right (passenger) side, but the crank kept spinning. It snapped the pin, rotated and then caught the cam shaft again. That's why the cam gear looked like it was at top dead center (but the shaft was not). That's also why it chugged like it was running super retarded, because the timing was off via the cam shaft. There was about a dozen teeth missing on the timing belt, too. I'm throwing in a new F23 this holiday break, so she should be right as rain soon. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.
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I've run into a bit of a puzzle with my 2000 4-cylinder manual Accord. I hit a giant boulder earlier in the summer on a city road and it left a huge dent in my oil pan. The oil light immediately came on so I pulled over and checked for leaks. There were none. I checked the oil level and it was raised noticeably. The car was still driving so I drove it home (about 5 minutes) and decided to get a new oil pan the next day from the junkyard. The next day I was driving on the freeway and just as I was going down a gentle decline (after about 15 minutes of driving) the engine cut out. I got it towed back to my place and I've been trying to figure it out since.
Basically, the car tries to start but it won't. It'll crank and you can hear maybe one combustion, but then it just goes back to cranking. If you lay on the gas full throttle you can get a combustion-crank-combustion-crank rhythm going and then it starts to stink like oil.
So far I've checked:
1. Oil pan - replaced with a spare H22 pan.
2. Oil pickup tube - it was dented as well, so I replaced it with a spare H23 one.
3. Fuel lines - undamaged.
4. Fuel pump - looks fine on visual inspection
5. Fuel upon priming - fuel squirts out (didn't check fuel pressure yet).
6. Spark - replaced spark plugs just for kicks.
7. Distributor - replaced with a junkyard one and there was no noticeable change.
8. Battery - bought a new one. Last one was old anyways and wouldn't hold a charge.
9. Compression - in the high 175-180 psi range on all four cylinders.
10. Ignition switch - I read that there was a recall so I took a multimeter and it works properly on all key positions.
The only other thing is a P1607 CEL that I've had for a few years now that started with cold weather. I've read that the only cure is to replace the ECU, so I've been waiting for a manual Accord to show up in the junkyard.
Any thoughts? I'm at a loss for ideas right now.
Basically, I drove on it for about 15 minutes with an oil light on. When I was on the freeway, the cam shaft seized on the far right (passenger) side, but the crank kept spinning. It snapped the pin, rotated and then caught the cam shaft again. That's why the cam gear looked like it was at top dead center (but the shaft was not). That's also why it chugged like it was running super retarded, because the timing was off via the cam shaft. There was about a dozen teeth missing on the timing belt, too. I'm throwing in a new F23 this holiday break, so she should be right as rain soon. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.
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I've run into a bit of a puzzle with my 2000 4-cylinder manual Accord. I hit a giant boulder earlier in the summer on a city road and it left a huge dent in my oil pan. The oil light immediately came on so I pulled over and checked for leaks. There were none. I checked the oil level and it was raised noticeably. The car was still driving so I drove it home (about 5 minutes) and decided to get a new oil pan the next day from the junkyard. The next day I was driving on the freeway and just as I was going down a gentle decline (after about 15 minutes of driving) the engine cut out. I got it towed back to my place and I've been trying to figure it out since.
Basically, the car tries to start but it won't. It'll crank and you can hear maybe one combustion, but then it just goes back to cranking. If you lay on the gas full throttle you can get a combustion-crank-combustion-crank rhythm going and then it starts to stink like oil.
So far I've checked:
1. Oil pan - replaced with a spare H22 pan.
2. Oil pickup tube - it was dented as well, so I replaced it with a spare H23 one.
3. Fuel lines - undamaged.
4. Fuel pump - looks fine on visual inspection
5. Fuel upon priming - fuel squirts out (didn't check fuel pressure yet).
6. Spark - replaced spark plugs just for kicks.
7. Distributor - replaced with a junkyard one and there was no noticeable change.
8. Battery - bought a new one. Last one was old anyways and wouldn't hold a charge.
9. Compression - in the high 175-180 psi range on all four cylinders.
10. Ignition switch - I read that there was a recall so I took a multimeter and it works properly on all key positions.
The only other thing is a P1607 CEL that I've had for a few years now that started with cold weather. I've read that the only cure is to replace the ECU, so I've been waiting for a manual Accord to show up in the junkyard.
Any thoughts? I'm at a loss for ideas right now.
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