Going for a re-tune.... (Round #2) Updated 10/28/13

hotaccord243

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Re: Going for a re-tune....

Devin, you really need to get on the ball and get this thing running! I'm getting an itch to play with the Accord again, and I need a good setup to copy. :beer:

I know, I have been lazy and needed a much needed break, but now am getting antsy to get it running on E85 and push for more boost and break that 400whp mark, i'm sick of waiting.

I think this weekend I will do a leakdown test to see what is wrong, and start ripping the sucker apart to fix it, start fresh on the timing, and see what happens....
 

akoutmos

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Re: Going for a re-tune....

I was looking through your AEM map that you gave to Nikita, and i noticed that you had Injectors 1, 2, 4, and 5 active but injector 3 disabled. For a stock accord wiring harness that will not work seeing as the wrong pin will be activated and injector 3 will do nothing. Did you modify your harness at all?
 

hotaccord243

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Re: Going for a re-tune....

My injectors are set to 1, 2, 4, and 5. Three was never used. I had a shop install the AEM so I honestly could not tell you if it was modified or not. Sorry.
 

akoutmos

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Re: Going for a re-tune....

My injectors are set to 1, 2, 4, and 5. Three was never used. I had a shop install the AEM so I honestly could not tell you if it was modified or not. Sorry.

Fair enough. I would take a look into it if you are indeed running this map. Maybe the shop messed up some of the settings on the EMS.
 

hotaccord243

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Re: Going for a re-tune....

Borrowed a Leakdown tester from a buddy, going to do a leakdown test tomorrow night and we'll see what happens....
 

hotaccord243

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Re: Going for a re-tune....

Results from last night:

Cylinder 1 - 20% loss from the left side exhaust valve.
Cylinder 2 - 6% loss. perfect.
Cylinder 3 - 20% loss into adjacent cylynder (adjacent valves from the top)
Cylinder 4 - 13% loss coming from up top between valves/adjacent cylinder

From what I can gather, it seems to be two issues from the get go that are causing part of the problem:

- Bad exhaust valves/seals at Cylinder #1
- Bad head gasket (must have been set wrong or nicked when installed between Cylinder 3 & 4.

I'm assuming the bad head gasket is the reason why I had bad/low results from the compression test also, which eplains why the car is idling roughly, along with a bad exhaust valve.

Thoughts/suggestions?
 

Russianred

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Re: Going for a re-tune....

As far as head gasket, should be an easy fix (relatively) for us, we generally know what we are doing haha. The valves, probably need to take the head to a shop unless you have a DIY solution. How did this happen with the valves, wasn't the head in like perfect built shape and ready to rock? Hmm, weird; and you didn't blow anything last time you ran the car right, just overhauled the build? Another theory is that when you were having those timing issues something could have happened and done a little damage to the valves there. Those are the only things I can think of right now.
 

hotaccord243

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Re: Going for a re-tune....

As far as head gasket, should be an easy fix (relatively) for us, we generally know what we are doing haha. The valves, probably need to take the head to a shop unless you have a DIY solution. How did this happen with the valves, wasn't the head in like perfect built shape and ready to rock? Hmm, weird; and you didn't blow anything last time you ran the car right, just overhauled the build? Another theory is that when you were having those timing issues something could have happened and done a little damage to the valves there. Those are the only things I can think of right now.

Thanks Nikita!

Well, by now we both know how to do it easier than the last time right? LOL.

My plan is to remove the head and replace the head gasket. When I have the head off I will do a few things. Turn the head so that it is at TDC for cylinder 1, and see if the valve sits "crooked". If so, then I will just replace the valve. If it seems to sit fine, tip the head on it's side and run water through it to see if a seal is leaking or the valve itself (if it's not noticible to they naked eye that is).

The only things that I can think that did this, was you are exactly right, either I set it down at a funny angle (which should have bent both exhaust valves not just one....) or maybe when the timing was slightly off it caused a tiny bit of damage to it and that's why it's off. I dont know, but glad I do know what it is now at least.

I may have the head decked, preasure checked and cleaned just for same measures, but I will have to see what exactly is happening underneath there and hopefully get the compression back to where it should be and running just fine.

When I put the head back on i'll be sure to make dam* sure that the timing is dead on, and see if that works. It's the only things that come to mind on why everything is so "off".... and having so many problems getting the timing done.

Any thoughts? Does this seem actually logical on why I am having this issue?
 
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