★ Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! ★ *UPDATED 4/15* ★

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

Thanks Matt, that link was pretty informative. I gotta say that dude Johnl had a lot of good info!

Patrick, for $125 that the kit costs, and while the engine is open, I may as well invest in Kaizenspeed eliminator kit option. Yeah it will be made for racing

Also wanting to do something to the crank.. How much would it help to balance the crank? If not much, is there a better crank I can get for our engine while it's open and would be worth the upgrade with my build? Pics coming right up.

Found out from Darton today that MID sleeves are unavailable for the F23 since not enough demand is present. They DO have flanged dry sleeves which I could easily purchase for $275 from Darton, and have the shop press them in. They said that the sleeves can hold up to 20psi without beginning to cylinder walk, and more than 20 reliably with a proper block guard. I'd much prefer the MID sleeves due to their closed deck conversion, but I'll have to go with the flanged straight sleeves because to custom develop the F23 MID sleeves, it would cost upwards of $1200 for R&D and sleeves. The good part about the straight sleeves I guess is that they are easier to install, and that means this greatly increases the chances of the shop installing them properly. They are used to straight flanged sleeves - they install them all day. The other good thing is that I will add a block guard for extra integrity and get similar results as full MID sleeves.

Anyone have any input on the above questions?

 

[Erik123456789]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

get the kaizenspeed kit, i loved mine.. not sure on whp gains or anything but it would take half the time to get the timing on and off.. i never noticed any engine vibrations or anything which is good.. and about the sleeves.. FULL SLEEVE OR NO SLEEVE. lol =p

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

Thanks Matt, that link was pretty informative. I gotta say that dude Johnl had a lot of good info!

Patrick, for $125 that the kit costs, and while the engine is open, I may as well invest in Kaizenspeed eliminator kit option. Yeah it will be made for racing

Also wanting to do something to the crank.. How much would it help to balance the crank? If not much, is there a better crank I can get for our engine while it's open and would be worth the upgrade with my build? Pics coming right up.

Found out from Darton today that MID sleeves are unavailable for the F23 since not enough demand is present. They DO have flanged dry sleeves which I could easily purchase for $275 from Darton, and have the shop press them in. They said that the sleeves can hold up to 20psi without beginning to cylinder walk, and more than 20 reliably with a proper block guard. I'd much prefer the MID sleeves due to their closed deck conversion, but I'll have to go with the flanged straight sleeves because to custom develop the F23 MID sleeves, it would cost upwards of $1200 for R&D and sleeves. The good part about the straight sleeves I guess is that they are easier to install, and that means this greatly increases the chances of the shop installing them properly. They are used to straight flanged sleeves - they install them all day. The other good thing is that I will add a block guard for extra integrity and get similar results as full MID sleeves.

Anyone have any input on the above questions?

I don't know much about the balancer shaft removal kits....

As far as the crank, just get it knifeedged and balanced to make sure everything is good and balanced.

The sleeves and the blockguard will be perfect for your setup! Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[BadgerType]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

i typed out a big long response to your last wuestion before the site went crappola

k series sleeves and micropolish crank

 

[Atreidies]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

micropolish crank

This.

Our cranks have 55mm mains and 97mm stroke. No other Honda 55mm crank has the same stroke, so treating your current crank is your only real option. No biggy though. You can rev to 7200 with upgraded valvetrain without piston speeds getting high enough to cause reliability issues.

And don't cheap on the bearings. If they get compressed and deformed because they are junk, you will be doing this all over again.

 

[BadgerType]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

You can rev to 7200 with upgraded valvetrain without piston speeds getting high enough to cause reliability issues.

pssssssh, my shift light doesnt happen till 7200

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

get the kaizenspeed kit, i loved mine.. not sure on whp gains or anything but it would take half the time to get the timing on and off.. i never noticed any engine vibrations or anything which is good.. and about the sleeves.. FULL SLEEVE OR NO SLEEVE. lol =p

They are going to be full sleeves, but not the modular integrated deck (MID) ones, which would convert the block to a closed deck and take the function of a blockguard.

As far as the crank, just get it knifeedged

What do you mean knifeedged? What does it do?


Thanks for the advice Atreidies, I am planning on using ACL racing bearings. I'll be taking block and crank to the shop tomorrow to get the block inspected and get a price quote on micropolishing crank.

Here are the pics:

What are these shims? They look like they hold two of the axis on the crank, and each of the axis should take two of those shims, one on each side. The thing is, only two shims fell out, while seemingly there should be four. What's the deal with these? I'm assuming I need to buy new ones to replace these.

Thanks!

 

[x5carl3tMurd3rx]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

They are going to be full sleeves, but not the modular integrated deck (MID) ones, which would convert the block to a closed deck and take the function of a blockguard.




What do you mean knifeedged? What does it do?


Thanks for the advice Atreidies, I am planning on using ACL racing bearings. I'll be taking block and crank to the shop tomorrow to get the block inspected and get a price quote on micropolishing crank.

Here are the pics:

What are these shims? They look like they hold two of the axis on the crank, and each of the axis should take two of those shims, one on each side. The thing is, only two shims fell out, while seemingly there should be four. What's the deal with these? I'm assuming I need to buy new ones to replace these.

Thanks!

oh boy time for me to look smart. Knife edging is where the basically make the counter weights on the crank sharper then the are stock. this takes away from some of the rotational mass of the crank it also makes it so when the crank swings through the oil instead of splashing through it it "cut's" through it. This helps to prevent aeration.....which is bad.

as for the two"shims" you found those are thrust bearings which keep the crank from moving back and forth on the journals. they should be color coded the ones I pulled from my block last week had green dots on the top of them.

that all should be accurate information but if I'm wrong someone correct me as its late and has been a pretty long *** day.


also you should store your crank standing on one end instead of laying on its side like that.

 

[9450erick]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

yeah i had those 2 shims as well
i assumed there would be 4 but i guess not
do they make aftermarket racing shims or just go with oem
also what happens if you leave the crank on its side like that, i have had mine positioned like that since late august,(its in cardboard box and that cardboard box is sitting on wood) is that bad.

 

[Atreidies]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 10/10/10*

OEM thrust bearings will be fine. They won't see any additional load or wear/tear in an upgraded engine.

If you store a crank on it's side, there is a much better chance of stepping on it, which would put it off axis, or of scratching the bearing surface. They are designed to only be loaded at certain points, and with tight tolerances, so .002" off is pretty significant.

Badger - How high do you rev it before it really starts to drop off?