★ Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! ★ *UPDATED 4/15* ★

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 3/23/11*

Thanks man, that definitely helps as an assembly tip! I am still concerned about more details regarding the shape of our OEM sleeves, so that I can get the closest to identical replacement sleeves pressed in. Interested in more input also on the mentioned 'thin spots' in our cylinder walls and how it would affect the sleeving or integrity of the block afterward.

My shop will be boring out the stock sleeves, and pressing in the thickest sleeves to preserve cylinder/block integrity, while allowing maximal wall thickness after retaining the needed center bore of 86.5mm. These are the details I am still trying to convince myself of, and find out more about. The end thickness of the sleeves we are looking at will be 3.2-3.5mm thick, after being pressed back into the casting and bored to spec.

 

[x5carl3tMurd3rx]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 3/23/11*

I don't think it would have any effect on sleeving since you'd be boring out the entire stock sleeve.

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 3/23/11*

Nikita - Good to see some progress on your block! Makes me feel lazy lol. Feel free to hit me up with any questions during this!

That is correct the block is cast around the OEM sleeves.

The sleeves are straight due to the block being cast around them so they stay straight and true. No hourglass figure or thin spots there....

There shouldn't be any "thin spots" per say in the walls.... unless due to honing and sleeve manufacturing caused the honing to have the walls thinner in some spots, Plus it shouldn't be a worry since you are boring out the entire sleeve and a large portion of the block cylinder wall casting for full press in sleeves.

Make sure they are not "replacement sleeves" as manufactured by many. This is where the casting is kept in place, and a sleeve is pressed into the casting in lieu of boring out the whole cylinder wall area solely leaving a bottom portion for the new full sleeves to sit on with their lip.

As far as the process of install it's done several different ways. The common way that I have heard of is the heating of the block for expansion and the sleeves are then pressed in using a CNC machine. When the block cools it "shrinks" and presses on the sleeves to keep them in place. I guess I have never thought that cooling the sleeves and then pressing them in would work. I believe that it does but it also leads me to believe that it would make them significantly more brittle in the pressing phase of the installation of the sleeves and they would have to be significantly more cautious during install.

The freezing or warming of the sleeves or block doesn't necessarily need to be done and is more than capable of pressing them in without doing so. However, this does help ease the process of installation.

Our cylinder walls are fairly thick towards the bottom and along the sides especially where the sleeve will sit on and in at the bottom. So I don't understand their worries or fears of boring the walls too thin... That is why CNC machines are used for exact precision and therefore no worries...

Just as an FYI and not to be an word Nazi, but boring is for removal of engine internals (sleeves and casting) and honing is for fine adjusting of sleeves and cylinder walls for creating a nice clean cross-hatched surface for the piston/rings to slide and operate on. Again just pointing it out and not trying to be an a** Nakita

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 3/23/11*

Thanks for your input bro. That helps answer some questions. I always understood the difference between boring and honing man! I just don't mention honing at all really, because that is just the final step before installing the pistons and I'm focusing on the sleeve install. Speaking of honing though, wonder how much that takes off after the cylinders are bored..

 

[hotaccord243]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 3/23/11*

Thanks for your input bro. That helps answer some questions. I always understood the difference between boring and honing man! I just don't mention honing at all really, because that is just the final step before installing the pistons and I'm focusing on the sleeve install. Speaking of honing though, wonder how much that takes off after the cylinders are bored..

I knew you did but I just wanted to put it on there more for clarification if others are looking at this thread for information on how to go about this process.....

Glad I could help though! It depends on how much honing will take off. Most sleeves come close to OEM specs, especially if you get oversized pistons for more displacement, then you will be honing off a mm or two, but in your case it would be fractions of mm just to get it to exact sizes for your pistons.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 3/23/11*

Good call bro! I'm sure everyone can use this info! If honing takes off up to a mm, then maybe all I will need is honing for my sleeves, not boring. Like you said depends on how much the hone takes off.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 3/23/11*

After my 5-lug swap, I drove around and brakes worked perfectly for me without replacing the proportioning valve. I am just wondering how much BETTER they will work with the proper valve. I am also wondering if the effects of the valve would even still be there, if ABS is absent (since it's made for ABS)..

Another option is to just buy an aftermarket racing proportioning valve from Summit or something.. Would I be fine doing this and replacing my OEM one with it?

http://www.google.com/#q=brake+prop...gc.r_pw.&fp=7b2a1dda4f65c836&biw=1280&bih=643

Looking to purchase it soon so it's out of the way.

 

[ib042129]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 3/23/11*

Hey.
I did my drum to disc conversion a while back and I still drive with the stock proportioning valve. I bought the 40/40 valve a while back, but it is a pain to remove the lines from my stock one. They are stuck solid and there is not much space to work with them. I would not want to deal with it unless the engine is out of the car.
Don't quote me on this, but I think you should not use an ABS proportioning valve if you don't have ABS.

As far as how the car works. Never had a problem on the road. Took the car to the track and it is fine for AutoX, but when I did PDA you drive for 20min periods at much higher speeds and the breaks would go soft on me in 10 min or so. (Of course I am running street fluid.)

After my 5-lug swap, I drove around and brakes worked perfectly for me without replacing the proportioning valve. I am just wondering how much BETTER they will work with the proper valve. I am also wondering if the effects of the valve would even still be there, if ABS is absent (since it's made for ABS)..

Another option is to just buy an aftermarket racing proportioning valve from Summit or something.. Would I be fine doing this and replacing my OEM one with it?

http://www.google.com/#q=brake+prop...gc.r_pw.&fp=7b2a1dda4f65c836&biw=1280&bih=643

Looking to purchase it soon so it's out of the way.

 

[Russianred]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/18/11*

Thanks for your input Ivan! I have also been driving on my stock proportioning valve with no problems, for some reason I just thought that swapping the other valve would make it better or more reliable (proportioned) to complete the swap, and in general. My engine is already close to being out, I will have no issue accessing the area. Are there any benefits to getting that aftermarket proportioning valve like in the link above? Is that all it takes to adjust distribution on the car's whole brake system?

 

[ib042129]

Re: Russianred's Turbo Build Thread! *UPDATED 5/18/11*

Thanks for your input Ivan! I have also been driving on my stock proportioning valve with no problems, for some reason I just thought that swapping the other valve would make it better or more reliable (proportioned) to complete the swap, and in general. My engine is already close to being out, I will have no issue accessing the area. Are there any benefits to getting that aftermarket proportioning valve like in the link above? Is that all it takes to adjust distribution on the car's whole brake system?

I never went shopping for the fully adjustable ones. I principle this is all you would need. But make sure that they are for all 4 wheels and not just two, reading the description on those it seems like you would need two of those valves for the whole car.

But yea, you can replace yours when the engine is out, otherwise it is a pain.