2000 Coupe Project

[bluelights81]

Hello everyone. I'm starting to piece together a rebuild/turbo build for my 2000 coupe. I've had the car for 12 years and have taken extremely good care of it. I've got the car exactly how I want it except for the engine. It has 180K on it, so a rebuild with performance internals are in order if I'm going to turbo it. Reliability is key, as this will be a daily driver, not a track car. I also want to buy quality parts, do it right the first time and not cheap out on anything. I want to build a straight F23 as it stands, with no swaps, however popular the H22 head swap is. I love the Accord, and want to build it as close to it was stock, obviously with higher performance parts to withstand the added beating of boost. Currently as the car sits, it has:

-Koni/Ground Control suspension setup
-24mm Progress rear anti-sway bar
-Neuspeed front tower brace
-18" RH Evolution C5 wheels painted a custom gunmetal
-AEM Cold Air Intake
-Brembo blank rotors with Axxis HP Pads
-Goodridge stainless steel brake lines
-OBX Headers and cat back exhaust
-OEM Honda full lip kit
-a few other add ons which aren't particularly worth mentioning

I have begun to buy parts here and there, as money permits, for the turbo/rebuild project. So far I have bought:

-Speed Factory orange 4-bar MAP sensor
-Mishimoto black Z-line universal intercooler
-Gates Racing Timing and Balance Shaft belts
-Rywire OBD1 conversion harness
-Bisimoto Intake Manifold gasket
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump

I am planning on buying Crower rods and Wiseco K20 pistons to complete the bottom end. I will most likely be using the stock head and stock intake manifold as well as most of my research concludes both are capable. Will be mirroring the build by AFACCORD if any of you have followed and/or seen his build. My hp goals are 300-350 if all goes as planned. Will try to update my progress as I go. Any feedback and/or suggestions from others who have undertaken a similar build is welcomed!

 

[RedRyder]

Plans look solid, sounds like you've done your research. Good luck with the build!

Post a members ride thread for your car, I'd like to see it.

 

[bluelights81]

Hey thank you! Appreciate it. I tried to upload some pictures on the Members Ride Forum, however it has a 19 KB size limit. Not sure if it's because I'm a new member or what. However I just created an album in my profile with some pictures if you'd like to take a look!

http://6thgenaccord.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1268

 

[RedRyder]

Cool. Upload your photos to a sharing site like Photobucket, then paste the IMG link here.

EDIT
Car looks good, I love old school RH rims. I had a set of C2000's (limited edition of C2). What pedal covers are those?

 

[bluelights81]

Thanks for the compliment. One of the wheels have a dent in them, however it hasn't seemed to drastically effect balancing in the past. I'd love to get them professionally redone, however the going rate here in New England is about $250/wheel. They look good enough now to hold off on that.

And as far as the pedal covers, I have no idea haha. Got them as a gift when I first got the car. I'm assuming they're a cheap knockoff set, however they've held for 12 years and never came loose, so I can't complain. I also did a full LED conversion on the inside. Actually took me about 8 hours, when all was said and done, tweaking them. Aluminum foil was my friend haha Also I have a blue LED strip under the driver and passenger dashboards. I know, a little rice, haha but they only come on when opening the door, then dim out with the dome light. I like it. I just posted a few pictures in my album. It's all white LED's with some blue accents. I also have a stock deck, cause I love it, and did that as well. F'n pain in the a** haha. But I love tinkering...

 

[xci.ed6]

You have had the car too long to know what speed is.

So, I will give you a simple solution.

OEM suspension, lower 1.5"
Replace struts with springs
align
OEM rear sway bar
-other stays if 'ok'!

Engine: turbo stock motor, keep boost ~6psi. It will be fast!
For fuel use a 3 bar map (IIRC: oem somewhere), double of the oem injector size is ~450(?) so DSM had some, Eclipse , use Apexi VTEC thing to setup tune.

If you think the engine might die, get another stock(!) one. Put it in the back corner of the garage. Cover it. Wait.

Yeah, cheap, I modded an old CRX like this and it lasted more than 40,000 miles. It might still be alive, the last owner doesn't know where it went/what happened/who -might- own it...

[edit: ****, forgot, engine went at 30k, New one was still truckin turbo'd when I lost it. ~170k on the clock when I lost it]

 

[bluelights81]

Was wondering if you guys had any experience with a BBK 70mm TB? Also by increasing the throttle body, would work need to be done on the intake? I just picked up a used intake manifold for dirt cheap and am going to be cleaning, polishing and prepping it. Would like to know if a bigger TB would work.

 

[xci.ed6]

not really.
A tb restricts air, because it is supposed to, 99% of the time.

A bigger one...imagine stock, you have 0-100% throttle based on flow (not pedal) new TB is like 0-125% based on the original...

So what use do you have for 25% more?
Won't it be flowing all it can, before you can get to wot?

Bigger TB does have a reason, but until you can get from factory 150hp to something like 185hp...useless.

Oh, and I/H/E will probably get that to ~165hp maybe ~175hp, so it's still short...

 

[bluelights81]

Well considering my above mentioned build and HP goals (300-350) and boost, was wondering if the 70mm would be worth it.

 

[xci.ed6]

Once you get into boost, it becomes harder, density and stuff.

Easiest way to tell put a boost gauge before and after TB, see any difference between them while WOT, upgrade it.