1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
Ok I will check that out tomorrow! but I cannot figure how to change that big jump in "idle% vs target" guess car needs to be connected and running in order to mess with that?
car wont start,AEM EMS installed
- Thread starter 1NonlyAccord
- Start date
if you click in the table, use the arrows on the keyboard to highlight different points. then press plus or minus to change the values. you can bring up the table view by clicking the blue arrow and clicking the table view or table/graph view. I usually like the table/graph view so that you can see both.
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
should I start at that spike or from the 1st and work my way over?
hotaccord243
Well-Known Member
I was out of town and had to catch up at work super late last night, apparently it sounds like you got it pretty much covered akoutmos.... sorry I was so late in on this.. bachelor party over the weekend kicked my a**. LOL.
But that's the problem I was having is when converting it I found out it doesn't do it correctly, that and parameters changed between the two programs and versions of AEM.
The idle is the easy of the fixes as akoutmos said, it sounds like/looks like you have to start playing with that spike to get it to run/idle smoothly. It also seems like your Idle base target seems to be sitting higher than it should be in my opinion...
Was the car misfiring at all? Akoutmos - you think it has to do with making sure the AEM EMS is synched with actual timing on the car to make sure that it is retarding/advancing correctly off of the timing map?
The fuel is key as well, do you have an a/f guage to make sure that the fuel is correct in corresponding to the a/f ratios? That would help smooth out alot of things as well.. as i notice the fuel map appears a little on the rougher side...
I'm back in town and will keep a closer eye on this thread and chime in more that i'm around now.
But that's the problem I was having is when converting it I found out it doesn't do it correctly, that and parameters changed between the two programs and versions of AEM.
The idle is the easy of the fixes as akoutmos said, it sounds like/looks like you have to start playing with that spike to get it to run/idle smoothly. It also seems like your Idle base target seems to be sitting higher than it should be in my opinion...
Was the car misfiring at all? Akoutmos - you think it has to do with making sure the AEM EMS is synched with actual timing on the car to make sure that it is retarding/advancing correctly off of the timing map?
The fuel is key as well, do you have an a/f guage to make sure that the fuel is correct in corresponding to the a/f ratios? That would help smooth out alot of things as well.. as i notice the fuel map appears a little on the rougher side...
I'm back in town and will keep a closer eye on this thread and chime in more that i'm around now.
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the help guys! I have not had any time today to go out and mess with it.I got a new puppy and she is a handful at the moment.1st time leaving her alone while i went to work today,so im making sure she feels loved again since im home.
the shop never emailed me back,so ill probably end up calling them once work slows down or i get a free second.
the shop never emailed me back,so ill probably end up calling them once work slows down or i get a free second.
Hey buddy, good to have u in the thread
The ignition timing sync was never done. If you go into the full list in AEMPro, you can see all the hidden parameter values. The ignition fixed is at -17 degrees. If synced properly it should be near 12 (cuz that is where the mark on the crank is for syncing ignition). If you have a copy of the tune, u'll notice that the ignition map is identical to the F22B base map that AEM provides. The guy didn't even touch it! All that he did was change the breakpoints for load and do a crappy job tuning the fuel, and a crappy job setting the idle. It's actually a good thing he didn't sync the ignition timing because the motor would have def blown seeing as it is actually applying ignition timing for vacuum in boost. Only reason it works is because the motor is running retarded throughout the map which offsets the high ignition timing.
As for fueling it looks like the guy just did the auto fuel tuner....which usually gives you that spotty look to the fuel map :/. I always do fuel maps manually by reading the log files and using a wideband. Fuel is very easy to do. Especially if you are running boost compensation tuning.
BTW, are you running on a V2 EMS?
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
I have not messed with the car yet,but do you think AEM has AC options?Its weird ac button stopped working
1NonlyAccord
Well-Known Member
ok,had to go get a new Optima battery..Car cranks right up after rolling over like 10times.
idle is 2500K and very loud and annoying.
AC does NOT work even WITH Factory ECU..so some fuse or issue there.
Re-gapped my plugs to about .0025-7,think it solved the bogging issues.But car dosnt feel very fast even at 7psi.
I cannot get the idle to come back down no matter what number i change,so its something else'
idle is 2500K and very loud and annoying.
AC does NOT work even WITH Factory ECU..so some fuse or issue there.
Re-gapped my plugs to about .0025-7,think it solved the bogging issues.But car dosnt feel very fast even at 7psi.
I cannot get the idle to come back down no matter what number i change,so its something else'
hotaccord243
Well-Known Member
Thanks bud!
I noticed right off the bat that the ignition was half-a**ed.... that he didn't even touch it, that right there made me speechless.
The fuel was the second thing I checked into, and just like the ignition, was half-a**ed as well, and done horribly wrong. That is the easiest way to do it, is using a wideband a/f gauge, you can tell what areas of your map need adjusting (richer/leaner) and adjust certain areas accordingly to the a/f. Once you get it close you can start working on top end areas, and smoothing out the map for a better flow. Hands down probably the easiest thing to do, I agree.
I am running the AEM v1 with AEMpro, which explains why it basically takes me a little longer working in AEMtuner, due to the change in layout, locations of things, and parameters need some separate calculations to get them convert. I started that but you beat me to it, which I was glad cause it was a huge PITA.....
As far as the AC, that has to be with the system, like you said Monty, and un-related to the standalone.. I would guess a fuse, controls, or just something sporadically gave out.
The idle is something different, especially if it doesn't react to you changing the parameters in any of the idle adjustments in the AEMtuner. When in the idle area of AEMTuner, one thing I noticed is under the box to the bottom left labeled "Options-Idle". The standard out of the box values were never changed from the Idle FB above/below RPM, and set at 400/1700. I would suggest playing with these a little.
There should be a target idle graph that should come down even further after the coolant temperature increases and that should help keep your idle down. The other thing as we talked about before the idle % vs Target should not increase as RPM's increase initially. It should decrease to keep your idle down during the lower end of RPM's, say to your "target RPM" or where you want it to idle (i have mine dip down from 35 to about 30 up to 700 RPM) and then slowly increase to maybe just shy of 60% once you get up to 3000rpms.
I don't know if this would help but here is a view of the AEMPro version of my setup so far after I adjusted things to get my idle smoothed out:
As you can see the difference in the idle% vs Target table between the two, and the Idle target base is pretty much the same after converting from C to F or F to C.... Took me a second to catch on to that. ha.
The other thing I noticed is in the box labeled "options - Idle trim" there is two boxes I think you should input values in.
-The high idle above VSS should remain 0.
-The High Idle RPM offset should have an input depending on what you want to do here. Basically this is there where your AEM will/should automatically adjust your idle when it is high/low by the increment set in this box. I have mine at 100rpm, due to the fact that I don't like the offset to kick in and RPM's to be "jumpy" and have a huge swing here. I would think since nothing else is reacting, I would think that you would have a higher input than me to try to offset your extremely high idle of 2000rpms
- The high idle wait time, you can just put in here .5 seconds react time so your car doesn't over/under idle, but quick enough to catch it.
Lastly if nothing else seems to work, check, remove, and clean your IACV as that could be the determining factor. That could either be dirty/faulty/bad connection somewhere that could cause the connection not to be made.
Maybe even a difference in inputs on the AEM v2 vs the v1 and some things are not being changed over correctly and causing these problems?
Hopefully this helps explain a little and is easy to understand and help out.... and my fingers are tired...
I noticed right off the bat that the ignition was half-a**ed.... that he didn't even touch it, that right there made me speechless.
The fuel was the second thing I checked into, and just like the ignition, was half-a**ed as well, and done horribly wrong. That is the easiest way to do it, is using a wideband a/f gauge, you can tell what areas of your map need adjusting (richer/leaner) and adjust certain areas accordingly to the a/f. Once you get it close you can start working on top end areas, and smoothing out the map for a better flow. Hands down probably the easiest thing to do, I agree.
I am running the AEM v1 with AEMpro, which explains why it basically takes me a little longer working in AEMtuner, due to the change in layout, locations of things, and parameters need some separate calculations to get them convert. I started that but you beat me to it, which I was glad cause it was a huge PITA.....
As far as the AC, that has to be with the system, like you said Monty, and un-related to the standalone.. I would guess a fuse, controls, or just something sporadically gave out.
The idle is something different, especially if it doesn't react to you changing the parameters in any of the idle adjustments in the AEMtuner. When in the idle area of AEMTuner, one thing I noticed is under the box to the bottom left labeled "Options-Idle". The standard out of the box values were never changed from the Idle FB above/below RPM, and set at 400/1700. I would suggest playing with these a little.
There should be a target idle graph that should come down even further after the coolant temperature increases and that should help keep your idle down. The other thing as we talked about before the idle % vs Target should not increase as RPM's increase initially. It should decrease to keep your idle down during the lower end of RPM's, say to your "target RPM" or where you want it to idle (i have mine dip down from 35 to about 30 up to 700 RPM) and then slowly increase to maybe just shy of 60% once you get up to 3000rpms.
I don't know if this would help but here is a view of the AEMPro version of my setup so far after I adjusted things to get my idle smoothed out:
As you can see the difference in the idle% vs Target table between the two, and the Idle target base is pretty much the same after converting from C to F or F to C.... Took me a second to catch on to that. ha.
The other thing I noticed is in the box labeled "options - Idle trim" there is two boxes I think you should input values in.
-The high idle above VSS should remain 0.
-The High Idle RPM offset should have an input depending on what you want to do here. Basically this is there where your AEM will/should automatically adjust your idle when it is high/low by the increment set in this box. I have mine at 100rpm, due to the fact that I don't like the offset to kick in and RPM's to be "jumpy" and have a huge swing here. I would think since nothing else is reacting, I would think that you would have a higher input than me to try to offset your extremely high idle of 2000rpms
- The high idle wait time, you can just put in here .5 seconds react time so your car doesn't over/under idle, but quick enough to catch it.
Lastly if nothing else seems to work, check, remove, and clean your IACV as that could be the determining factor. That could either be dirty/faulty/bad connection somewhere that could cause the connection not to be made.
Maybe even a difference in inputs on the AEM v2 vs the v1 and some things are not being changed over correctly and causing these problems?
Hopefully this helps explain a little and is easy to understand and help out.... and my fingers are tired...
