Cylinder 1 Misfire (2002 4dr SE 2.3l f23a1)

Souryu · Jun 5, 2015

Hello everyone,

as you can see, I'm having trouble with my accord. It's been misfiring for the past 2 days (it happened a day after I changed the neutral safety switch).

Also, let it be known that 2 of my o2 sensors were throwing codes, and I'm about receive them in the mail in about 1-2 more days.

So, I go up to the autoparts store, my engine starts to misfire when I'm about to leave and so I'm pissed. I ended up replacing my pcv valve after that (it ended up being severely clogged, I've been burning oil for awhile and didnt even know why.) and I noticed that there's oil all around my valve cover gasket area, so I bought a new valve cover gasket and spark plug seals for the valve cover.

So having extra money I decided to replace my sparkplug wires, and nothing changes. My car seems to be misfiring at idle but when im on the road it feels perfectly fine and smooth, so I'm not entirely sure what it can be. The check engine light didnt come on for hours after I cleared the codes either (misfire in cylinder 1 confirmed happened again).

Sorry, about this wall of text but essentially I'm wondering if a distributor cap/rotor could cause just 1 cylinder to misfire, or if it's my o2 sensors that are causing a misfire (I was told that o2 sensors don't cause misfires but they can be burnt out by misfires)

EDIT: Also when I had a compression test done 6 months ago, they told me the sparkplug in cylinder 1 had oil on it ( I replaced all the plugs 5 months before that), and I haven't pulled that plug yet soo...
Any suggestions?

james'99 · Jun 5, 2015

Pull the plugs and see what you've got. Compare the condition of them. It could be that due to the PCV failure, the oil fouled the plug in cylinder 1. That is where I would start looking. If that is the case, a simple cleaning of the plug should do.

Souryu · Jun 5, 2015

Alright so the plug in cylinder 1 was white and coated, so were the others. I replaced them and cleared codes but it still feels like it's slightly missing. I just pulled off the distributor cap and I see oil in it by where the cylinder 1 slot is so.... maybe that's it? I'm about to replace the cap and rotor now.

xci.ed6 · Jun 5, 2015

coated with what?

As for the distributor, how are the blades? On the rotor is has a bit of copper where the spark 'jumps' to the cap contacts, check both. Hows wear?

As for oil, if they aren't worn check on how often, and how much, it gets oily. You can clean them if it isn't very bad, but you may need to do something about the shaft seal.

Souryu · Jun 5, 2015

Well the Sparkplugs were coated at the end (they looked white and smelled like fuel slightly) with carbon buildup, replaced them and it got better. Also let it be known that I've been burning oil for awhile now (changed my pcv valve and things got a lot better )

The rotor looked slightly discolored and felt a teeny bit rough on the metal part that touches the plug wires but i replaced the cap and the rotor, so my car runs fine now and it doesn't misfire but it shakes. Also, I cleared the codes and I just drove about two hours to run some errands (nonstop free way driving) and no CEL anymore.

Further inspection revealed that my front engine mount is shot but the engine only moves a bit when I Rev it up.

My o2 sensors are gone ( I have a high flow cat and o2 sensors ready to install in my car though just sitting in my room.)

Could the o2 sensors be the cause of the rough idle/shaking now?

EDIT: My only problem that I'm having now is a rough idle. (Shaky idle)

Sino · Jun 5, 2015

If you've been burning oil, it's likely there's a good bit of sludge in the intake/throttle body/idle air control valve.

xci.ed6 · Jun 5, 2015

Souryu said:
I've been burning oil for awhile now (changed my pcv valve and things got a lot better )

Check your compression. Really, with this issue, checking the compression will tell you if your engine is a lost cause, or recoverable.

I just drove about two hours to run some errands (nonstop free way driving) and no CEL anymore.

Great!

Could the o2 sensors be the cause of the rough idle/shaking now?

EDIT: My only problem that I'm having now is a rough idle. (Shaky idle)

Not really., you don't have a CEL, right? So the sensors are still working. You're not in 'limp mode', so it should be running fine. They might be nearly dead, but they're still alive. I'd do the mounts first. Watching the motor move means it's stopped. No load from moving about ton and a half, the car.

Souryu · Jun 5, 2015

Well I had my compression checked months ago and they told me in cylinder 1 there was oil on the plug way back when, but the compression was consistent (I have to find the readings but it was like 180s or 190s across all four cylinders)

I had a CEL up until a week ago for my catalyst system (bank 1 and 2 operating below efficiency standards) but then that and my neutral safety switch CEL randomly vanished. They came back 2 days ago but are gone again now. Its weird.

I'll do the mounts also but I already have new o2 sensors and a cat just sitting in my house. So yeah.

EDIT: Sorry I know I sound pig-headed probably. You're the mechanic here, so I appreciate all the advice that you and everyone else are giving me.

But what do you mean watching the motor move means it's stopped?