SykVSyx
Well-Known Member
Updates.
Down but never out
- Thread starter KnightRyder
- Start date
KnightRyder
Well-Known Member
I swapped the entire board. I haven't let the car warm up since it's still at the shop. I'm sure mine is fine. What's the typical issue?
RedRyder
Save the manuals
^If you own a 98-00, and swap in an 01-02 cluster, then the temperature gauge will not read correctly. Too hot if I remember right. But if you swap the whole circuit board like you did, you should be okay. That's what this guy did...
http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1013826#post1013826
http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1013826#post1013826
Last edited:
KnightRyder
Well-Known Member
doing some final touch-ups before paint on the rear bumper. i didnt take a before shot but it basically looked like 3 levels, the WW lip had its own shape/width, then the OEM bumper had its own shape/width, and then the tire rubbed away part of the OEM bumper so it was like 3 steps. i smoothed it all out to one clean sweeping line from the widest part of the WW lip out to the thinnest tip of the bumper. Pics are just before i did the final sanding on the new filler i applied (grayish color). And yes, i work on things myself at the shop too whenever i can because nearly everything i do to this car is DIY so when there's something i need someone else to do, i still try to be involved in the process.
if you're thinking that looks pretty flimsy at the corner, you're wrong. The bumper is fairly rigid by itself but im adding an extra bit of reinforcement to the corner for 2 reasons, stregth and to help get the very tip of the bumper to line up perfectly with the new flared out rear fender. im going to use Fusor 152 or something similar to bond a piece of 22gauge steel that i fabricate to fit perfectly into the corner as well as give me a solid mounting spot for the bolt that will hold up the bumper.
i'll also be reinforcing this mounting location with 22gauge steel because the bumper got a little soft here from the accident when the force of the impact popped the clips out.not to mention this bumper/lip combo in addition to the body filler on this thing make this a super heavy bumper.
Rear bumper, side skirts, mirrors, door handles, C-Pillar Bar, and Harness Bar are being primed and painted in the next couple days.
Meanwhile, the body of the car and the carbon fiber pieces have had ample time to cure so they're being wetsanded now and cut/buffed to a mirror shine.
It looks like i may have the car home by next weekend. then i can start fabricating the SiR-T front bumper and eventually have that painted too to complete the outside.
if you're thinking that looks pretty flimsy at the corner, you're wrong. The bumper is fairly rigid by itself but im adding an extra bit of reinforcement to the corner for 2 reasons, stregth and to help get the very tip of the bumper to line up perfectly with the new flared out rear fender. im going to use Fusor 152 or something similar to bond a piece of 22gauge steel that i fabricate to fit perfectly into the corner as well as give me a solid mounting spot for the bolt that will hold up the bumper.
i'll also be reinforcing this mounting location with 22gauge steel because the bumper got a little soft here from the accident when the force of the impact popped the clips out.not to mention this bumper/lip combo in addition to the body filler on this thing make this a super heavy bumper.
Rear bumper, side skirts, mirrors, door handles, C-Pillar Bar, and Harness Bar are being primed and painted in the next couple days.
Meanwhile, the body of the car and the carbon fiber pieces have had ample time to cure so they're being wetsanded now and cut/buffed to a mirror shine.
It looks like i may have the car home by next weekend. then i can start fabricating the SiR-T front bumper and eventually have that painted too to complete the outside.
kn0x47
Senior Member
love that color. can't wait to see the new front end
RedRyder
Save the manuals
Once you go red...
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
^ Haha!
Stellar progress Vimal, I await anxiously..
Stellar progress Vimal, I await anxiously..
puzzlemaster94
6GA Connoisseur
Looks beautiful. Can't wait to see it
KnightRyder
Well-Known Member
the car is now fully buffed so i started reassembling stuff like headlights, tail lights, front bumper, hood, trunk, etc...
w/ flash
w/o flash
since things are approaching the final stages finally, i covered the car to keep the freshly buffed paint clean, also allows me to start cleaning the filthy interior without fear of it getting dirty again which happens in a matter of hours inside a body shop.
kinda off topic but i'll share regardless, i came up on some used comptech headers from a CL-S last week, they're about 10 years old and the car was not garaged ever so they had a TON of rust on them, i picked them up for $400 plus i did the labor of removing these and installing stocks onto his car.
I let them soak for upwards of 24hours in a bucket full of "evapo-rust" (little over 1 gallon of fluid = almost $40). after 24hours the evaporust broke loose almost all the rust but i still hit it with a wire brush on the joints and flanges and 400>600 grit sandpaper on the pipes, then let it soak for another 12hrs to get the last of it off then i started polishing...
Before:
After:
w/ flash
w/o flash
since things are approaching the final stages finally, i covered the car to keep the freshly buffed paint clean, also allows me to start cleaning the filthy interior without fear of it getting dirty again which happens in a matter of hours inside a body shop.
kinda off topic but i'll share regardless, i came up on some used comptech headers from a CL-S last week, they're about 10 years old and the car was not garaged ever so they had a TON of rust on them, i picked them up for $400 plus i did the labor of removing these and installing stocks onto his car.
I let them soak for upwards of 24hours in a bucket full of "evapo-rust" (little over 1 gallon of fluid = almost $40). after 24hours the evaporust broke loose almost all the rust but i still hit it with a wire brush on the joints and flanges and 400>600 grit sandpaper on the pipes, then let it soak for another 12hrs to get the last of it off then i started polishing...
Before:
After:
![Prelude%205[1] (3)
Our 94 Lude](/forums/data/xfmg/thumbnail/2/2346-df75742f3bc2afeed48e1b8294ae7251.jpg?1695467880)
