Gallowlight
Member
Hey All,
I'm new to this forum, been on DriveAccord for a bit, but need more specific help.
I have a 2000 V6 Coupe with 300k that's been sitting for a while while I revamped the fuel system (Brake/Fuel Lines, Tank and filler/fuel hoses ect many things).
I have this issue we've been diagnosing. Idle for this guy has always been outta whack (read Idle high at cold start then drop), but drivable and reliable. After driving again after sitting, I would get an intermittent P0505 for the Idle Air Control Valve. Moving the car while in storage would get an occasional P0335 for the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Code only came on rarely.
We replaced the IAC valve, cleaned out the throttle body and IACV passages. We still got a temporary P0505 after replacing it, so we burped the coolant system. Still idling erratically in Neutral/Park. It would stutter at around 1,500 and hang there, or it would rise, fall, rise, fall and it moved was +/- 500 rpm. Car would sometimes struggle to start and kept stalling out. No codes would be thrown initially. twice over the last week we got a Crankshaft Position Sensor code after hours of driving and diagnosing. We further cleaned the idle air screw itself (bit of carbon buildup), as the adjustments we made to it did nothing. I checked the EGR for carbon buildup and it was clear.
We replaced the Throttle Position Sensor. We set it to a positive value based on data on our SnapOn Ethos Scantool. If there are specific values to set it too, please tell me. The old one had a -.6% value. We assumed a positive value was needed if the negative value was causing the issue.
On cold starts, it runs beautifully. Idle is where it should be (about 800/900ish) is the best we got. Driving great, no issues. But if you park and do a thing and come back and the engine still has some heat, it will either give you a cranky start but start then stall in gear, OR not start and crank and struggle to start. I had to drive home doing engine stands (gas and brake at the same time) to keep the RPM up and from stalling out.
We're debating replacing the main relay first(based on inspection), then the Crankshaft sensor (for possible intermittent failure), and possibly reinstalling the old IACV to see if anything changes. Does anyone have any suggestions or can give me some voltage/draw readings so I can further test the CKP/IACV/Main Relay? Many many thanks
I'm new to this forum, been on DriveAccord for a bit, but need more specific help.
I have a 2000 V6 Coupe with 300k that's been sitting for a while while I revamped the fuel system (Brake/Fuel Lines, Tank and filler/fuel hoses ect many things).
I have this issue we've been diagnosing. Idle for this guy has always been outta whack (read Idle high at cold start then drop), but drivable and reliable. After driving again after sitting, I would get an intermittent P0505 for the Idle Air Control Valve. Moving the car while in storage would get an occasional P0335 for the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Code only came on rarely.
We replaced the IAC valve, cleaned out the throttle body and IACV passages. We still got a temporary P0505 after replacing it, so we burped the coolant system. Still idling erratically in Neutral/Park. It would stutter at around 1,500 and hang there, or it would rise, fall, rise, fall and it moved was +/- 500 rpm. Car would sometimes struggle to start and kept stalling out. No codes would be thrown initially. twice over the last week we got a Crankshaft Position Sensor code after hours of driving and diagnosing. We further cleaned the idle air screw itself (bit of carbon buildup), as the adjustments we made to it did nothing. I checked the EGR for carbon buildup and it was clear.
We replaced the Throttle Position Sensor. We set it to a positive value based on data on our SnapOn Ethos Scantool. If there are specific values to set it too, please tell me. The old one had a -.6% value. We assumed a positive value was needed if the negative value was causing the issue.
On cold starts, it runs beautifully. Idle is where it should be (about 800/900ish) is the best we got. Driving great, no issues. But if you park and do a thing and come back and the engine still has some heat, it will either give you a cranky start but start then stall in gear, OR not start and crank and struggle to start. I had to drive home doing engine stands (gas and brake at the same time) to keep the RPM up and from stalling out.
We're debating replacing the main relay first(based on inspection), then the Crankshaft sensor (for possible intermittent failure), and possibly reinstalling the old IACV to see if anything changes. Does anyone have any suggestions or can give me some voltage/draw readings so I can further test the CKP/IACV/Main Relay? Many many thanks