Euro R CL-1 SWAP

FunnyVictor86

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hey glass, i was pondering ... ok i noticed that true euro-r's are dual exhaust ... but what size is the piping? ... i have 2 1/4 piping at the moment and i think it's choking up the motor
 

GlassJAw

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2-1/4" flattens out to 2-3/4 and splits into two after the rear support, has 2 Silencers in the mid section, and 2 mufflers out the rear.
It has stainless piping from factory too would you believe??
Apparently the cheapest and most effective mod is to enlarge the exhaust collector to 2-1/2"
 
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FunnyVictor86

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yea that's what i was thinking ... my hopes are to get a header with a 2 1/2 collector ... 2 1/2 hi flo cat to match ... and either finish it off with a hi flo muffler that looks stock or keep my ws1 and paint it satin black

... ok so i still haven't fixed the eng. temp ... i was busy this weekend trying to diagnose my brothers eclipse gsx without an obd2 scanner because i lent it out to a unreliable friend ... how did it go, F A I L ... so now i'm back to the accord, i have an aftermarket gauge but i still want to fix the one on my gauge cluster ... so does anyone have the pinout for the gauge cluster ... i'm mainly looking for the eng. temp color code/pin off the cluster, not the ecu ... i could have sworn i seen it somewhere but can't find it using the search engine for the life of me

2001 EX F23a4 5spd [if it matters], thanks in advance
 
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GlassJAw

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Does the OBD2 test connection under the dash still work on your car Victor?
I would definitely consider getting 2-1/2" exhaust on the car if you are going to stick with a single exit exhaust!!
Interesting thing I found out on the weekend..... my friend has genuine JUN headers for an H22A and the collector is only 2-1/4" - I was thinking it would be 2-1/2" as everyone says thats what is best, But JUN certainly know their stuff when it comes to H22A's!!
 

F23A1AT

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yea that's what i was thinking ... my hopes are to get a header with a 2 1/2 collector ... 2 1/2 hi flo cat to match ... and either finish it off with a hi flo muffler that looks stock or keep my ws1 and paint it satin black

... ok so i still haven't fixed the eng. temp ... i was busy this weekend trying to diagnose my brothers eclipse gsx without an obd2 scanner because i lent it out to a unreliable friend ... how did it go, F A I L ... so now i'm back to the accord, i have an aftermarket gauge but i still want to fix the one on my gauge cluster ... so does anyone have the pinout for the gauge cluster ... i'm mainly looking for the eng. temp color code/pin off the cluster, not the ecu ... i could have sworn i seen it somewhere but can't find it using the search engine for the life of me

2001 EX F23a4 5spd [if it matters], thanks in advance

I think this may be what you are looking for I found it in one of the many 5spd swap threads. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b230/Nerdpolice/Honda wiring/0002vsscircuit.jpg Look on the left side of the diagram. BTW Drift posted that image so maybe he can give some more info on it. GL
 

FunnyVictor86

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Does the OBD2 test connection under the dash still work on your car Victor?
I would definitely consider getting 2-1/2" exhaust on the car if you are going to stick with a single exit exhaust!!
Interesting thing I found out on the weekend..... my friend has genuine JUN headers for an H22A and the collector is only 2-1/4" - I was thinking it would be 2-1/2" as everyone says thats what is best, But JUN certainly know their stuff when it comes to H22A's!!

yes the obd2 test connection still works perfectly ... i don't know whether i want to go dual or keep a single exit exhaust ... i agree JUN knows their stuff, my plan is to eventually get some JUN cams ... i just need to figure out whether i plan to stay N/A or Boost, but that won't be anytime soon

the car runs really healthy but i'm not 100% happy with it ... i still need to do a lot of work to my exhaust system ... half my exhaust manifold is from euro r and half of it is from a regular h22 ... my cat is gutted ... and of course the 2 1/4 piping is too small

out of curiosity ... how much does your euro-r weigh? ... my car needs to go on a diet


I think this may be what you are looking for I found it in one of the many 5spd swap threads. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b230/Nerdpolice/Honda wiring/0002vsscircuit.jpg Look on the left side of the diagram. BTW Drift posted that image so maybe he can give some more info on it. GL

yes i think this is it, thank you ... ok so from my understanding the eng. temp signal/sender goes straight to the cluster? the wire being yellow/green stripe?
 

F23A1AT

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I don't know how it runs to the cluster/ECU exactly. I just remembered seeing that and went "ah that's what he's looking for".
 

GlassJAw

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i just need to figure out whether i plan to stay N/A or Boost, but that won't be anytime soon

out of curiosity ... how much does your euro-r weigh? ... my car needs to go on a diet

Go turbo..... then you can live my dreams for me HAHA!!
I wanna get Mahle Golds, lower the compression to 9.0:1 and run some boost.

Car with Half a tank of Gas weighs roughly 2822lbs (1280kgs) which isn't too bad for a stock car I guess??
I reckon with a major diet I could get it down to the vacinity of 2425lbs (1100kg) or less??
 

FunnyVictor86

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Go turbo..... then you can live my dreams for me HAHA!!
I wanna get Mahle Golds, lower the compression to 9.0:1 and run some boost.

Car with Half a tank of Gas weighs roughly 2822lbs (1280kgs) which isn't too bad for a stock car I guess??
I reckon with a major diet I could get it down to the vacinity of 2425lbs (1100kg) or less??

one day man, i was thinking high compression + low boost and a hell of a tune but i've already come this far, might as well do it right

doubt it, i'm not positive but i think usdm 6ga weights roughly around 3200-3400lbs depending on model ... i know it says it on the sticker on driver side door jam ... i wonder if the weight on there is actually accurate
 
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