F23 NA BUILD 200whp or bust.......

michaelp4283

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It doesn't shake and rattle yet, but i've experienced poly motor mount shakes before, not a drawback IMO. Header has the stock sized collector I believe, I'm actually replacing a dented one with another after I smooth out the ports. Is there info on here for a DIY 2.5 collector mod like you've done? I'm running an OBX cat and a Hayame catback and an APEXI WS2 mufler. I have a nice flat black 2.5 muffler from Vibrant waiting for possibly a Kteller 2.5 exhaust if I can figure out the 2.5 collector mod. As far as problems go, I'm taking everything to King Motorsports to be built so I hope I'll be avoiding any major mishaps. Will be tuned with Hondata. I think the power band will be acceptably streetable. Its still a long stroke SOHC with short gearing so I doubt the low end will be inadequate for smooth take-offs. Just my speculation however, I really don't know that from experience. Is there any reason with the right cam and the head its got, that it can't keep up with G23's?

What size collector on the header, and what size catback?




Is there a reason it already shakes and rattles? lol




I don't know what the power band will look like. I'm really curious myself to see how it turns out.




Undoubtably so, but there are 100 places for things to go wrong when you're assembling a motor from scratch. If everything goes well, it should be plenty reliable. But if something isn't done to correctly, it will usually show itself in the first few thousand miles.
 

AFAccord

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EDIT: I just typed all this out in the quick reply box, and hit "post", and it went back to nothing! I thought I'd lost it, but went back and forth a couple times and reloaded, and it finally posted it up. Phew!!


Collector Mod...

http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/general-tech/82408-how-header-collector-mod.html

I'd use a V-band assembly to connect it to the rest of the exhaust.

http://www.racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=106

You'll want 2.5" or better sized exhaust if you're making over the 200whp mark. I was looking at Kteller's kit, but later decided to save some money and piece together a kit myself. Here's all you need.

-Two 4' straight sections from Summit Racing.
-Two 90 degree mandrel bends.
-Two 45 degree mandrel bends

Mandrel bends from http://www.mandrel-bends.com

**** Hondata.

It has the right makings for a good build. I'll be watching anxiously.

As for G23's... Non-VTEC, easily. G23 VTEC, I doubt it. Just comparing numbers. Even if you make over 200whp, G23 VTEC's make 240-260+. The F23 head simply doesn't have the great aftermarket support (S2 IM, Euro-R IM, Hytech, SMSP, RMF, DTR exhaust manifolds, etc.) that H22's have. Bisi has helped out with some F22A head/F23 blocks though, and they've made 270whp and better. We'll just have to see!
 
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michaelp4283

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You're a great help AFAccord. I am so tempted to try that hardweld cam but I'm leaning towards a custom 2.2 right now. I want to keep the RPM's down, so my hesitance is based on thinking the increased duration would shift the powerband upward too far for my liking. I DO NOT want to rev to 8K even though I'm sure it means more power. I'm trying to get a clearer idea of what exactly the different cams would do for MY application. Aggressive, but far from "peaky" power is what I'm looking for.....I want to feel some authority in around-town driving. This is not an all out drag race car, nor am I shooting for the highest whp possible (though my thread title may contradict that a bit) I don't know how much longer the valve needs to be open when the head flows as well as it does. After you tune, you'll probably be making close the power I set out for, and I'd be pretty happy with whatever extra whp my head should be capable of making. I know in the end, I'll be happier if my powerband is flatter.
 

michaelp4283

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ordered pistons today. went with custom Wiseco 86.5 with lightweight pins and skirt coating. -7cc compression. I should be low to mid 11 range compression.
 

BlkCurrantKord

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Are your specs on file with Wiseco? I'm going through them also when the time comes, but with -3.5cc.
 

michaelp4283

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specs on file? I suppose they keep a record of what they make. the specs were determined on the phone with their sales rep and he was very helpful. went over every calculation and possibility. The -7cc was spec'd based on the milling of the head, aftermarket head gasket thickness, and reduced combustion chamber volume of 48cc vs 50.
 

mraw112

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-7 is going to take alot of milling on the head to get you to mid 11s. especially with cams, I bet your going to have valve to piston contact from milling the head that much. you should really get something around -3 to 0
 

michaelp4283

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I changed the order to -5 cc. Honestly anywhere over 11 under 12 will be fine use the zeal calc with 48cc head
 
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