Are you suggesting to try to grab the strut when the wheel is moving at 30mph? You can have that method!
Ill take the conversational, grab the stationary wheel on both sides and try to feel an movement both up and down and side to side.
Fast clicking noise while driving
- Thread starter TACORICAN
- Start date
Are you suggesting to try to grab the strut when the wheel is moving at 30mph? You can have that method!
Ill take the conversational, grab the stationary wheel on both sides and try to feel an movement both up and down and side to side.
GoldnKnight22
TWM:TLMF
LOL, WORD.
Driving car while on jackstands..... man, that's like the second time in a week it's been mentioned. no thx.
Driving car while on jackstands..... man, that's like the second time in a week it's been mentioned. no thx.
We drive cars on stands here at the shop all the time, but we arent reaching into the wheel well while the wheels are spinning. Also, I may not have read that correctly, (or completely, Ive been known to skip things), but what does the strut have to do with the bearing? The strut connects at the LCA, not the knuckle. You wont be able to feel anything wrong with the wheel bearing from there.
TACORICAN
Well-Known Member
Cool. I did put the car on jackstands and shook the wheel. No movement... I guess I'll continue my journey to find out what the problem is.... SHould i just forget about it and deal with it?
GlassJAw
Well-Known Member
That sounds to be a likely cause, possibly summin jammed in the cooling fins around the centre of the Brake Rotor hitting on the brake calliper. Or even a stone jammed in the ABS sensor wheel on the back of the hub hitting on the ABS sensor.
TACORICAN
Well-Known Member
Thanks all. I just noticed that the backplate behind the front rotor seems to be making contact with the rotor itself. I've just bent it back and will find out on my way home if that solves the problem.
x5carl3tMurd3rx
Well-Known Member
.....your kidding right?
TACORICAN
Well-Known Member
I've checked everything and even the backplate behind the rotor, everything seems fine. Noise still there and now even louder when on the freeway. (Its not the CV since I've checked those and heard that noise before). So I've ruled out the possible bad CV Axle. The noise now at high speeds is like a deep BUZZ noise which comes and goes. I've put the car on jacks and tried checking the hub for any movement, there is non... 
I'm giving up. Time for new car? Oh and now the trunk rattle.
Thanks to all for the responses!
I'm giving up. Time for new car? Oh and now the trunk rattle.Thanks to all for the responses!
How about this. Jack up the offending side, take the wheel off, pry the pads off the disc or lift the caliper. Handbrake on and gearbox in neutral.
Turn the disc by hand to see if you can get the click that way. At least one or 2 full revs. Turn it forwards, then backwards.
If you do, then it must be the wheel bearing or axle - but you replaced the axle right - so unlikely that
If no click, then it must be in one of the parts you just took out of the equation - tire, disc, caliper, pads - balance weights etc. or worse, tranny.
Could it be something in the wheel well area touching the tire once every rev - is the tire round (i.e. no eggs). No Nails etc
You seem to have eliminated the obvious, so ...
Turn the disc by hand to see if you can get the click that way. At least one or 2 full revs. Turn it forwards, then backwards.
If you do, then it must be the wheel bearing or axle - but you replaced the axle right - so unlikely that
If no click, then it must be in one of the parts you just took out of the equation - tire, disc, caliper, pads - balance weights etc. or worse, tranny.
Could it be something in the wheel well area touching the tire once every rev - is the tire round (i.e. no eggs). No Nails etc
You seem to have eliminated the obvious, so ...
