^no the driver mount is a metal brace that hooks to the actual mount where the rubber bushing is all that is being fabricated is the metal brace. i have a one of drift's mounts and the work is top notch i can vouch for him
My f23a1 recently died on me..needing a new engine so since i was already planning on it..ill just swap in the h22a..thing is im not sure which u did because i didnt read the whole write up...but did you do the obd2? or 1? im trying to do obd2..so i was wondering when doing obd2 do you still have to go thru the trouble of all that wiring and everything else?..re-routing...i heard just the motor mount on the right needs to be changed...howd you do that? and there is a jdm obd2 right? they say those are a helluva lot cheaper
P.S.- Im more over on Driveaccord.net and i already have a post over there...so if you could kindly help me out..
how about you read the whole thread first
if nick wanted to have people ask him multiple questions about his swap, he would not have documented this thread so well
02-02-2006, 08:34 PM
Ok, so you had to deal with the same problems I did. Did you wire in the knock sensr correctly with the shielded wire? It cant see any stray voltage or you will see a KS code. Same goes with the CYP and TDC, both are to be sheilded. Do you have any idea as to what temp you are running? Because if the ecu isnt seeing a ect signal it will go into limp mode.
To check codes, (in the USDM ecu at least, I dont know about the JDM ecu) ground out pin number D4 and if the CEL is wired correctly, it will prodice flash codes.
If its wired in right, which Skunk2 kindly did for me, you can run codes the exact same way all the OBDII guys do,
[insert paperclip jumper in OBDII port]
1 Heated Oxygen Sensor
3 MAP
4 CKP
5 MAP
6 ECT
7 TPS
8 TDC
9 CYP
10 IAT
12 EGR
13 BARO
15 Ign output Sig
16 Fuel Inj
17 VSS
20 ELD (Electrical Load Detector)
23 KS
41 HO2
43 02/Fuel Supply
Not knowing how you did the wiring makes it really hard for me to help you. When I was doing my wiring I had (and have) all the wiring diagrams from both cars, so I could wire it exactly how honda has it. But I dont know what you have going on, so. . .
I actually spent the time the other night going through my diagrams and mapping out what the skunk2 harness should have done from pin to pin. Its in a Excel format, I can send it to you if you PM me your email address.
Could a check engine light be caused by the water temp on the cluster not functioning? I put in an aftermarket water temp gauge after my swap cuz I couldnt get it reading, but every now and then while driving the check engine will pop on and I keep forgetting to do the little jumper to check it.