H22 VS. F20b which one to choose?????

Sonnick

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also what other parts would i need for the swap??? and i think ima go with the H22
Search :slap:

This has been covered about a million and a half times. Please..save yourself the drama/headache and just search. Type in Accord H22 swap in Google and you will get plenty of information.
 

S-spec

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The F20B is a destroked and debored H22. They are IDENTICAL otherwise. You can use H22 aftermarket bolt ons, like headers, stuff like that.

They both have 200 hp stock. The H22 has 160 tq, the F20B has 145 TQ.

The F20 screams all the way to 8200 RPM though, and comes with huge Prelude Type-S cams.

As for the replacement for displacement...MEHHH. I personally find my F20B Accord more fun to drive than my friends Prelude, that is more important to me, aside from the fact that I have spanked him from a dig and on the highway :D

As for the Trannies, Any H/F tranny will do. The OEM F20B tranny comes with an LSD, and has the same gear ratios as a USDM H22 Tranny.

Good luck, and have fun :) If you have any other questions that haven'T been covered, go for it.
 

lilcharlie

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ok well i done research and i found out the most of the swap is just a bolt on ,except: the drivers engine mount that i have seen and read that you can use it but have to modifie it alittle , the AC is a direct bolt on, power steering you have you have extend it alittle longer, ECU i read that there are 2 options 1) keep the obd2 by finding a 96 h22a ecu, there is no immmobilizer so itts basically plug and play 2) convert to obd1 by buying a harness the plug up a p13 ,p28 or any compatible ecu. that what i have read so far .is there anything else i need to know about the swap???
 

S-spec

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If you choose to go OBD1, which I think would be the best way to do it, you can grab yourself any P05, P06, P20, P71, P30, (or any other OBD1 chippable ECU). Don'T worry if it doesn'T come from a motor with VTEC, or auto/manual, whatever. If you have some1 in your area that knows what they are doing, they will be add VTEC capabilities to the ECU, convert from Auto to Manual if needed, etc.

F20B Specific: (I don't know which motor you are looking at right now...)

You can also use the JDM ECU. Its direct plug and play. (And the JDM units have no immobilizers) I wouldn't use an H22 ECU to run the motor. Take this from somebody who started with an H22 basemap, and saw personally how big of a change was made to make the motor run nicely. Its a good place to start though, just to get the thing running, but 11:1 compression, 2L less displacement, bigger cams, everything will be off. It will run, but it won'T run right.

Also, for the power steering, you will have to find yourself an H22 pump and bracket, and I would also recommend an H22 P/S line as well. I haven't come across ANY F20B with a P/S pump already on the motor. The stock crank pulley that comes with the F20B doesn't even have the track for another belt. I am not sure if its because the Accord SiR/SiR-T has NO power steering, or because it has electric power steering...

The mounts, there is nothing to modify. I used everything from the F23. Everything bolts DIRECTLY up. Its really a very straight forward install...

As I said before, its basically an H22 motor, (from the outside), so anything H-series or F-series will bolt on. However there are MINOR differences, as with the Powersteering Pump.

One thing you won't read about is the distributer wiring. Its not difficult, but its tedious for some. The F23 has a 4 wire connector into the dizzy. The F20B has a....7? or 8? I can't remember now. Reason being is that 2 sensors which are found in the F20B dizzy, are located on the crank on the F23. Those wires will have to be either extended, or, the easy way (and cleaner), just pulled out of the harness, rerouted withing the stock loom, and added to the Dizzy connector. (Looks OEM this way)

What I did personally is I ditched the dizzy that came with the motor, and opted for an external coil dizzy from a 92-96 Prelude, and wired THAT up. Just so in the future, in case something goes wrong with the dizzy, I won't have to REwire it up to replace the distributer.
 
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dreman

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I agree with S-spec and The F20b was also designed with electronic power steering so ya will have to ger rid of that.


If your planning to use the obd2 96 P13-a12 ecu your going to need a OBD2B to OBD2A conversion harness which is cheap but keep in mind if you want this ecu it will be hard as hell to find but can be found for some money. I might go back to OBD1 in the future if I plan to make much better power but I wanted to get this smog legal first and work from there.
 

lilcharlie

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ok cool thanks guys i think ima get all the stuff ready before i even buy the motor , (they have like 6 in the shop), also i dont have another car for me to be rollin in . i think ima do alot of more research because i want to do it right and im not in a hurry , but ima start posting pics of my whole swap in compleate detail to make it easier on other people thanks guys for your help, so i need the :

1) ecu
2)power steering bracket/line
3) modified the driver side motor mount

anything else??
 

BlkCurrantKord

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New header.

Call up Innovative Mounts, supposedly they make a D. side mount for the H22/F20B but its not listed on their site.
 

S-spec

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again...if you use the F20B, there is nothing to change on the driver's side mount. It originally comes from an Accord. I used the Original f23 mount, no modifications needed.

If you use the H22, then you will need the d-side mount.

The ps pump and bracket is only needed if you go F20B. With an H22, all you will *possibly* want to get is the line.

You don't absolutely need headers. The OEM ones on the JDM engines are Tubular anyway. Just checkif the jap scrap shops didn't cut the header collector flange off when you buy the motor as they so notoriously do.
 
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