nice.... but cant build view thread, needs log in
Didnt realize you wouldn't be able to view it sry I can post some more info on it.
What crank is he using to get a 2.2l?
Here is the info behind the build for you on extacly what he was deciding to use when building it.
so me being down for a while got me looking for new **** to "do", bad news ehhh
yeah so after lots of looking around, research, some thinking, some math i came up with something that hasnt been done yet and that sealed the deal in that i need to go BIG!!!
so here is the game plan for the next round:
new motor build, my current motor is a 2.0L with a 88mm stroke crank, 150mm steel rods and a 9.5:1 compression pistol, fairly straight forward stuff. now i wanna do a 2.2L aluminum long rod high compression motor for e85-e98 (if i can get my hands on some)
what im doing to get there is im gonna use a custom 94mm crank which is 6mm longer than what i have now, then 156mm ALUMINUM rods, and a super short (in height) 10:1 compression piston. reason for the longer crank is cause it will add displacement. what that will do is flow more air which will give me a nice bump in torque as well as spool my new turbo about 10% quicker than the old 2.0L motor.
now let's be clear i never liked the 2.3L 4g63 motors and i still REALLY don't, reason is by throwing a 100mm crank in there with the avg off the shelf rods like everyone around here does is that it will throw the rod angles off and then you become really limited to revs and who the **** wants that? sure you can rev a bit higher but the higher you go the more wear you put into it and a normal 2.3 will be at the same level of "stress" at 7500rpm's as either my 2.0L or my new 2.2L will be at close to 9000rpm's
here is where im going a bit more different, im gonna use a 6mm longer rod, reason for that is that when you go to a longer stroke crank you are changing the angles of the rods therefore you are putting more side stress on them which is not good and also increase piston speed (this is not so good, think about how fast those pistons move up and down and how those poor bearings get abused). so according to my math here by doing this set up with the 6mm longer rods it would bring the angles back to where my 2.0L motor was so i should not have any extra stress limiting rpm's which is the problem with "stroker motors". ideally you want a rod/stroke ratio around 1.55-1.8, this motor will be 1.71 r/s (where a 2.3 is closer to the low side of that while the 2.0L and my new 2.2L will be at right around 1.7 and for example a long rod 2.0L will be at 1.77). I'm also planning on using aluminum rods cause well they are lighter, and cost the same as the nicer steel rods, simple enough. my Oliver steel rods in my current motor weight in at 575grams with ARP rod bolts, the aluminum R&R are 495 grams each with bolts.
then there is pistons, right now i have a normal sized ROSS forget piston with a 9.5:1 compression ratio, stock evos run 8.9:1 CR. i wanna go to 10:1 so another .5 bump, this will increase response, as well as makes the motor more efficient both on and off boost. the piston will also be much shorter with the rod pin sitting much closer to the top of the piston which brings the weight of the piston down by 40 grams each and also brings most of that weight closer to the center so less weight outside. so thanks to the extra displacement and higher compression this motor should feel like an N/A car off boost around town but yet with a 10,000 rpm redline
now the turbo, i'm gonna go for the PTE6262, with the extra displacement i should in theory be able to see full boost around the same rpm as with my current set up but with a bit more top-end.
so hopefully i will have it all done and together by the end of the summer/fall time but that depends more on my knee deal, i would rather leave the car in the garage right now for a bit while i go out and ride but if im down for a bit then who knows, **** will get finished much quicker. everything has been ordered. i think i might have a break in may so possibly do most of it there if i can but i would rather focus on the other stuff and have this to mess with when i get some breaks along the way, no rush. my last motor build i did it in 3 days from when i drove it to the shop, pulled everything out, rebuild and drove out but i dont think i will be doing anything like that this time
so yeah, high revving stroked 2.2L aluminum long rod high compression motor! this exact set up has never been done before, there has been a few similar ones done using a 4g64 block but not exact same as im using my current 4g63 block since i already have it and i dont want to have to deal with adapter plates for water/oil pumps as well as some other things like a weird head gasket and such.
disclamer for the haters:
now before this comes up, yes my car is in perfect conditions right now and there was no NEED for all of this, nothing was broken, no blown motors or any of that bull****! i actually went for a drive around this weekend and then pulled it in the garage and started pulling the head. i just want to do something different, i really enjoy working on the car and this is a chance to learn more about it! i could never be and will never be the type that drives it to a shop and says "make it fast" i wanna be part of the whole process and like to do things on my own so i can learn a thing or two in the process. the motor that is in the car right now (which again is perfectly fine) was built by me at FootHills Performance and it made nearly 600whp for the past year but it's time for a change
i also wanted to do this all in the open and make a build thread (this one) where i will post pictures and such of everything along the way, maybe it will bring on a discussion and new ideas and maybe someone will learn a thing or two along the way so why not...
so in short in case you didnt wanna read it all above, the current car is working perfectly but i want some more, and to do something a bit different and here comes the 2.2L which to me was a nice middle ground compromise between a larger displacement motor that does not limit itself in revs while being a bit different than most.
all parts are on order and on the way here, while the custom one off pistons are being made and should be here in 2-4 weeks
pictures to come, and feel free to post any questions, ideas, etc...
Here is his parts list also:
Chassis Dyno Model
Dyno Dynaymics Dyno w/ 1.15CF
Drivetrain Modifications
BRP Built 2.2L Long Rod Motor w/ 10:1cr (1.7 rod ratio)
Manley 10:1CR w/ Custom Compression Height Pistons
GSC 156mm Steel Long Rods
EAGLE 94mm Stroke Crank w/ Custom Oil Holes
ARP Main Stud Kit
ARP L19 Rod Bolts
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
O-Ringed Block Deck Surface
Clevite Main/Thrust/Rod Bearings
OEM Evo IX Gasket Kit
AMS CNC'd Race Head with:
GSC S2 MIVEC Camshafts
Supertech 1mm Oversized Valves
Supertech Dual Valve Springs
Supertech Valve Guides
JAM Big Bore No Tick Lifters
ARP L19 Head Studs
Kiggly Racing: HLA Pressure Regulator
HKS Adjustable Exhaust Gear
AEM EMS Standalone ECU Tuned on e85 by "TheBoostCreep"
AEM 3 Port EBC Controlled Through AEM Standalone ECU
AMS GT850 Turbo Kit (AKA PTE 6262) w/ 5Bolt 0.63a/r Hot Side, double ceramic ball bearing, air cooled
AMS Tubular Exhaust Manifold
Tial External Wastegate
AMS TBE (with test pipe)
AMS FMIC w/ Cast Endtanks
AMS LICP
AMS UICP
AMS 4" Intake Hardpipe w/ 4" K&N Filter
AMS Under Cross Member Bar With Solid Motor Mount
FIC BLUEMAX 2150cc High Impedance Ball & Seat Injectors
Twinlab FPR
AMS Fuel Rail
AMS Mini Battery Kit With Odyssey PC660 Mini Battery
AMS Poly Passenger and Trans Motor Mounts
AMS SS Braided Clutchlines
AMS Solid Underhood Shifter Bushings
Driven Innovations Intake Manifold
CBRD 1/2 Width Radiator
Flex-A-Lite 12" Slim Electric Radiator Fan
Buschur Double Pumper
ALLSTAR Oil Catch Can
AWDmotorsports 2 Piece Aluminum Drive Shaft
WOT Ported 65mm Throttle Body w/ Works T/B Seals
Jack's Built 5 Speed transmission w/ Evo VIII 3rd and 4th Gears, Double Bronze Synchros
Jack's Built T-Case
Exedy Cerametalic Triple Clutch
BR Aluminum Diff Solid Side Mounts
BR Solid Rear Diff Support (Mustache Bar)
TIAL BOV
Sparktech COP Ignition w/ M&W CDI Box
Vanata Built Starter
Vanata Built Alternator
AEM UEGO Gauges
Gates Timing Belt
EVO RS Accessory Belt
BRP Oil Cooler Delete Kit
BRP Modified Oil Pump
ALL Stainless Steel bolts In Engine Bay
All AN Fuel and Oil lines
Handling Modifications
Megan Street Coilovers
Chargespeed +20mm Wide Body Front Fenders
BRP Rolled Rear Fenders
Enkei Nt03+M 18x9.5 +27offset w/ Custom 15mm Spacers for the Fronts (effective offset +12mm). in Orange
Nitto NT05 Tires in 265x35x18
ARP Extended Wheel Studs on Fronts
Buddy Club Extended Lug Nuts
AMS Rear Trailing Arm Delrin Bushings
Megan Racing Lightweight Rear Control Arms w/ Poly Bushings
Giro Disc Front and Rear 2piece Rotors
Giro Disc Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Giro Disc Magic Brake Pads
Interior Modifications
Alpine Head Unit w/ iPod Hook Up
AEM Gauges
Exterior Modifications
Rexpeed RallyArt Style Carbon Lip
Rexpeed Vortex Generator
Seibon DRY Carbon Fiber Trunk
12% Tints all Around
Orange Wheels
Black Brembo Brake Calipers
Orange Engine Valve Cover
BRP Blacked Out Headlight Housing
Other Modifications
100% BRP built to the last bolt at FootHills performance
lots and lots of weight reductions
Dont know if there is a way to allow you guys view the thread without loging in but I will try and figure it out, if anyone know please let me know. Thanks
sick.............................
