Howd'y Ya'll, KC here and i modded'ddid'd my Accord

[PumaFumé]

Just wanted to make my first thread and say "HI!"... Can't wait to really get bang'n on the forums.. This is my first one and i love my car dearly..

Currently i own a '99 Accord LX; it has NGK Blue Wires, NGK V-Power Plugs and a monster Ractive Ram Intake with a K&N Filter...(new cap & rotor, new pcv, new rad hoses, new brake pads in front, adjusted shoes in rear, replaced 2nd'dary O2 sensor)

im looking to do some more modding to the car..but i WONT do it unless it gets me better gas mileage..If it hurts i wont do it...FOR MY CAR!! B E Z U FREAKS!

thats why i join'd this forum, b/c i love my car and i want to make it more efficient..

Would a egay ching-chang header help out at all? my friend is a welder so he said he can make me w/e i want as far as a test pipe goes...

i dont want to turbo the car, its an automatic and i rather buy a new car, than convert it to stick..

I have steelies (15'') and 17'' alloys w/low pro tires, i <3 the 17's i painted them myself but for winter i need new all seasons for the steelies...any suggestions?

since i rotated my tires, my car pulls to the right.. think its jsut the uneven tire wear on the car from putting the rear tires in the front, i kno thats making me lose gas mileage...

I just installed new injectors (my friend gave me an extra set from his job so i sent them to Injector Rehab to get flow'd and clean'd) While i was doing the change over, i noticed that i cannot locate my fuel filter..

I just changed my oil to 20-50 with a S2k filter, ive been burning oil since the motor has about 140k on it, i am led to believe it is the rings.. still need to do a leak down...but the thicker oil should help me not burn it so much..I did a sea-foam cleaning in March of '08 and i only did it thru the brake booster hose, and in the gas tank.. thats all! but DAMN did it burn alot of smoke out..(i hope i didn't burn off all that carbon which was saving my rings from letting blow by come past the ringlands) (i think it did)



SO! MY QUESTIONS ARE:

How can i improve my gas mileage for the boat that i drive?

Do we have a fuel filter? B/c i can't find mine? is it in the fuel tank? Is changing the fuel pump sock going to be worth the headache of doing it in my driveway on my back vs more mpg?

Is my ram air really not as good as my buddy turning it into a cold air? how do i make sure i dont hydro-lock my motor (THE CHEAP WAY! **** AEM's $400 bypass valve)

How can i tell if i have the better or worse of the F23 motors?

How hard is it to do a water pump and timing belt?

Should i do a valve lash?

If i get drop springs do i need to buy camber adjusters? Do i need to upgrade the struts when i get the spring or the stock struts fine? if so which ones do ya'll suggest to buy? front & rear?

Once i get new rubbers and drop the car, do i need an alignment?

Do i need a new thermostat?

Do i need new rings?

Will my car throw a code if i put in a test pipe with headers? would a gutted cat be a better idea with headers? Passing inspection is no big deal!

WOW! i think thats it, thank you all for reading my entire thread if you did, and if you comment ya'll will get rep'd 4sho!

thnx so much..

<3
xoxo

 

[f23accord2000]

well first welcome and also ,you already are on the right track of getting the car good gas miles, just keep up on the oil changes and changing the fluid and also on the automatics change the tranny fluid ever 20k with honda fluid, and secound a header i dont have it i dont see the reason why people have them ,they make more noise and they kill low end which we want to gain cause we are 4cyl so header,and also fuel pump you dont have to change them unless there is something wrong put a fuel additive like chevron techron fuel system cleaning and sea foam her
>spark plugs and wires you did so your all set there
> check into the thread about the taking the resonater out and do a drop in K&N filter in your stock unit to me its the same as a SRI and you get better gas mileage,
>also if your not mechanicly inclined dont try to do the timing belt by your self, me i do all the work my self and left the timing belt to the prof its about 350 bucks to 400 with water pump done and its a 3 hr job

but good luck and welcome

 

[bigcoz]

I just changed my oil to 20-50 with a S2k filter, ive been burning oil since the motor has about 140k on it, i am led to believe it is the rings.. still need to do a leak down...but the thicker oil should help me not burn it so much..I did a sea-foam cleaning in March of '08 and i only did it thru the brake booster hose, and in the gas tank.. thats all! but DAMN did it burn alot of smoke out..(i hope i didn't burn off all that carbon which was saving my rings from letting blow by come past the ringlands) (i think it did)

Welcome to the site!...i think 20-50 is too thick,even for 140k....did they do a compression test on your motor? What about head/valve cover gaskets,when was the last time you replaced those?

BTW where you from in NY?long island,upstate,the boroughs?

 

[indowanksta88]

why are u so worried about gas mileage? a full tank is less than $30 rite now.

 

[A-cord]

20-50 oil is pretty thick.. it's gonna work your motor real good.. i'm sure it's really cold up in NY right now and 20-50 isn't a good idea. are you having any trouble turning your car on in the morning?

welcome.. since it's your first time on the forum, it's a really good idea to use the search function

why are u so worried about gas mileage? a full tank is less than $30 rite now.

lol you can't be serious.. thinking like that is just going to make the whole energy crisis worse.. after seeing gas hit $4 a gallon.. you can't take anything for granted. people really shouldn't be easing off and driving aimlessly just because gas prices are at 1.60/gal.. until the whole economic crisis is solved, gas prices can sky rocket at any moment.

 

[SpEeD LuNaTiKz]

Welcome to the 6GA fam and I'm sure you can find all the info you need here, I also have to agree that the oil seems a little thick especially in the winter.

 

[PumaFumé]

well first welcome and also ,you already are on the right track of getting the car good gas miles, just keep up on the oil changes and changing the fluid and also on the automatics change the tranny fluid ever 20k with honda fluid, and secound a header i dont have it i dont see the reason why people have them ,they make more noise and they kill low end which we want to gain cause we are 4cyl so header,and also fuel pump you dont have to change them unless there is something wrong put a fuel additive like chevron techron fuel system cleaning and sea foam her
>spark plugs and wires you did so your all set there
> check into the thread about the taking the resonater out and do a drop in K&N filter in your stock unit to me its the same as a SRI and you get better gas mileage,
>also if your not mechanicly inclined dont try to do the timing belt by your self, me i do all the work my self and left the timing belt to the prof its about 350 bucks to 400 with water pump done and its a 3 hr job

but good luck and welcome

i am pretty mechanically inclined and id do it w/my friends so if i was to about mess up, they'd stop me before i do...so the timing belt and water pump is somthing i wont pay someone to do it..but do i need to do a thermostat during that time frame?

i did seafoam my car and i do use fuel additivies..
but those wont clean my fuel filter or fuel pump sock..?

i have a SRI and the stock intake box is long gone.. (i think)

here is my BIGGEST thing about changing the auto tranny fluid.. my buddy says DEFF dont do it, he is a full blown mechanic, and he sees so many transmissions fail b/c the owner changed the fluid in them.. he told me basically the fluid acts as a detergent, and it eventually becomes so saturated you dont lose any material thus saving your auto tranny.. so when you change the fluid, your losing all the carbon (err w/e its made out of) losing the stuff thats still making it all work..

i would do it if i did it all the time, but i can honestly say i dont think it was ever done.. should i start now?

and would headers hurt me in gas mileage? i just want my car to be better...merging onto highways is another thing i want to improve on my car..and i CERTAINLY dont care if my car makes noise b/c of i/h/e..

well to answer the oil question, a VERY reliable source (Chameleon) who works @ a VERY VERY reputable shop near me suggested the 20-50, i kno its thick and i kno it works my motor good, no start up probs..

Welcome to the site!...i think 20-50 is too thick,even for 140k....did they do a compression test on your motor? What about head/valve cover gaskets,when was the last time you replaced those?

BTW where you from in NY?long island,upstate,the boroughs?

im from long island...

Why would i replace my headgasket or my valve cover gasket? they dont leak.. and i did state that i still need to do a leak down test still...

 

[bigcoz]

Why would i replace my headgasket or my valve cover gasket? they dont leak.. and i did state that i still need to do a leak down test still...

I wouldn't know, i had to replace mine when i got the car,@ 70k. Sorry didn't read that you didn't do a compression test, however i wouldn't recommend running 20-50,unless you have insane mileage....140k isn't alot. I had over 225k miles when i had my crown vic, and it ran just fine with 10-40

 

[PumaFumé]

I wouldn't know, i had to replace mine when i got the car,@ 70k. Sorry didn't read that you didn't do a compression test, however i wouldn't recommend running 20-50,unless you have insane mileage....140k isn't alot. I had over 225k miles when i had my crown vic, and it ran just fine with 10-40

ya the oil is the BIGGEST LEAST of my worries...

n no worries on the leak down dealy...

yah, my headgasket will get replaced when i/we (me n my clique think so)..they way i see it, if i replace my headgasket ima replace my rings, if i replace my rings i wanna put in a higher compression piston, and get a tune..

not realistic.. so alone it stays..

 

[Sketch o5]

welcome.

lower it