JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 03/12/2012)

[jdmcg3]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

Why? You are aware that Mahle Gold pistons work with the H22's FRM sleeves correct? Is there a reason you can not use them?

Might I suggest that you could be over-thinking this build a bit. I know I do the same thing with my build from time to time, but I don't have the plethora of parts available that you do with the H22, so I'm kind of forced into . Why re-invent the wheel? Here's some things that go through my head regarding your build...

- Block guards are best used to control cylinder movement for high-hp/high RPM engines when sleeving or aftermarket blocks are out of your budget. If you plan to run high compression with big cams and make high-rpm power on a budget, why not just use a block guard and call it a day?

- I would double check, triple check, and quadruple check P2V clearance before I milled the head .040" with domed pistons. Mahle's pistons can be had for $400 or less. I would see if they don't make one for your desired compression. If it's as simple as $400 to have a custom piston made to your liking, I would save yourself the headache of trying to shoehorn various square pegs into a round hole.

-Trying to put an F23 crank in an H22 block with F20b rods will put your pistons .2" above the deck, yielding about 25:1 compression if it were even possible.

Hope this helps.

like i said.. i was still in the process of doing the homework.

but ive found my best route would be to use f23 crank with f23 rods.
and i dont wanna use after market parts in the block so that i can compete in any class. nor do i wanna buy another set of pistons after already buying type-s pistons. and i am rethinking this whole build because i went a saw my buddies k20 swap the other day.. its a beast. i want something to compete against him. also my other good friend is starting a high compression LS nonV build and another is doing a h23vtec build. i dont wanna be the slow one in the group. and i want something unique and well thought out and put together. and im also rethinking things so i can find away around having to mill the head.

and yes you do not have to sleeve with mahle gold pistons.

i know response is kinda outta wack in the order i replied to your statement. but i got alot on my mind right now.

 

[AFAccord]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

Using F23 Rods and crank in the H22 block will put the Type-s piston .040" out of the hole, and yield 13:1cr if it even fits. With H22A pistons, you're still out of the hole, but compression is down to 12.5. If you reuse your H22A4 pistons, you'll have a nice 11.7cr, but again, the piston is above the deck. I don't think any of these will work. Even so, fitting the F23 crank into the H22 block would be a pain. I imagine you'd have to notch the block a hundred different ways to provide clearance.

If you're trying to 'hang' with your buddies in their lighter platforms with K swaps, you'll need a G23 VTEC and LOTS of weight reduction. That would require K20 pistons, so again, that option is off the table. I think you need to rethink your goals, define them better, and start from there. You might have to cut your losses with the Type-S pistons unless you want to simply run an H22 Type-S.

 

[jdmcg3]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

okay so after playing with the numbers (correct ones finally) and talking to the local performance shop. they said it wont work with out lots of modds. they said they tired it about two or three years back in a 01 prelude. so this idea is out the window. i was way over thinking things. as my high school coach would say.. "youre trying to throw the ball before you even fielded the ball" haha. so im now selling the type-s pistons and lookin into buyin some mahle gold pistons. im looking for 12.5 c/r. it would be a much easier way to reach the compression i want rather than doing the crank and rod swap or milling the head.

 

[AFAccord]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

okay so after playing with the numbers (correct ones finally) and talking to the local performance shop. they said it wont work with out lots of modds. they said they tired it about two or three years back in a 01 prelude. so this idea is out the window. i was way over thinking things. as my high school coach would say.. "youre trying to throw the ball before you even fielded the ball" haha. so im now selling the type-s pistons and lookin into buyin some mahle gold pistons. im looking for 12.5 c/r. it would be a much easier way to reach the compression i want rather than doing the crank and rod swap or milling the head.

Things are going to be much less complicated from here on out.

 

[bagoon316]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

so what is the new plan of attack?

h22 crank/rods/pistons?

 

[jdmcg3]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

so what is the new plan of attack?

h22 crank/rods/pistons?

f23 crank. custom rods. type s pistons. as of right now this is where i stand for my game plan. but may change. ive even put thought into changing the build all together and going boosted g23. idk. im gonna take a break from the build for a little while.. and just work on the car it self. its in need of some body work.. and full paintjob. and i really need to upgrade suspension.


but heres a quick question about cranks...

is a larger crank (being f23 in this instance) gonna give me a higher redline.. or smaller crank (being h22a4)? i know its not by much.. but i read something about this a couple weeks back and didnt really pay any mind to it.. and now i cant find that thread again over on honda-tech. i believe if my memory is right.. than a larger will.. but recreational activities dont help. so i may be wrong.

 

[AFAccord]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

Theoretically, a K20 rod would be short enough to put the pistons well below the deck, and milling the head up to .035" could bring you up to ~11.5cr.

Using a stroked (bigger) crank, is going to lower your redline because the piston has to travel farther and with greater speed, causing greater stress on the rods. You can surely run it as high as you wish, but with the greater stresses of the bigger stroke, reliability flys out the window. This, in combination with the shorter rods you'll HAVE to run make for a worse r/s ratio than a stock F23, which means even more issues with higher RPMs. Any rod you run with the F23 crank will have to be a short rod (not good). This is exactly why Bisi designed the new F23 rod/piston combo with longer rods, and compensate with a shorter compression height on the corresponding piston. Better geometry makes for less side load, less wear, better mechanical efficiency, and a more reliable motor for higher RPMs.

 

[jdmcg3]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

thank you for a great answer.

 

[bagoon316]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

when did bisi come out with the new f23 rod/piston combo?

think you are talking about the f22/h23 long rod piston combo. i was just on his site a couple days ago looking for f23 parts and didnt see anything. saw a few things like cam regrinds and the heat shielding gasket.

 

[AFAccord]

Re: JDMCG3's N/A H22 Build (Last Update: 12/11/2011)

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39567