Need Advice for F23A4 Turbo Options

[bluelights81]

the A4 is the ULEV motor. And out of curiosity, why do you say it wouldn't be worth it? If I wanted to stay in the range of 6-8 psi, what features of this motor wouldn't hold? Again I'm brand new to this, so looking for solid info. Are the stock internals of the engine different than the A1?

 

[danmccormick87]

the A4 is the ULEV motor. And out of curiosity, why do you say it wouldn't be worth it? If I wanted to stay in the range of 6-8 psi, what features of this motor wouldn't hold? Again I'm brand new to this, so looking for solid info. Are the stock internals of the engine different than the A1?

It's has a few different properties than the standard F23, and the ECU is tuned for lower emissions and more efficiency. Regardless of all of these things, unless you were converting the different components to that of a A1, tuning would be almost pointless for the cost. Even if you didn't need to worry about inspections, you'd still have to piggyback and try to tune the A4 ECU. Most tuners would tell you to convert to either a full standalone or wouldn't touch the efficiency ECU. The motor is almost identical to the A1, but the electronics aren't, so remember this if you need to worry about emissions control. As pulled from Wikipedia, "This engine has a different exhaust manifold, a more restrictive intake manifold and cylinder head, and a 32-bit ECU which uses an AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) oxygen sensor when compared to the F23A1."

 

[chaby_91]

It's has a few different properties than the standard F23, and the ECU is tuned for lower emissions and more efficiency.

All f23 engines are tuned for low emissions. That's just a tune.

Regardless of all of these things, unless you were converting the different components to that of a A1, tuning would be almost pointless for the cost. Even if you didn't need to worry about inspections, you'd still have to piggyback and try to tune the A4 ECU.

No

Most tuners would tell you to convert to either a full standalone or wouldn't touch the efficiency ECU.

Yes, because they're much better.

The motor is almost identical to the A1, but the electronics aren't

What are those different electronics?

so remember this if you need to worry about emissions control. As pulled from Wikipedia, "This engine has a different exhaust manifold, a more restrictive intake manifold and cylinder head, and a 32-bit ECU which uses an AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) oxygen sensor when compared to the F23A1."

So the more restrictive IM and head and ulev tune still only reduced the engine's power per 2 hp and 2 ft/lb of torque. These engine already have a wideband O2 sensor. IDK if he can use it to tune, but if he can, he just saved $200+.

He could just build an a1 while the a4 stays in the car and swap the engine when it blows up. Because that's very likely to happen.

 

[agginline86]

edit: Nvm

 

[cmgreensr]

No logical reason for an f23 of any variant to blow on 6-8 psi. Since you are in SoCal which is in another world emissions wise, why don't you find a reputable tuner in your area and ask their opinion on piggybacking or on what needs to be done in your area. A lot of the members here live in areas where they have the ability to go obd1 or run a stand alone. This will cause you to get several different opinions that don't take into account your local laws.

 

[chaby_91]

First, his info shows New Hampshire, not SoCal. Second, any engine that's not built for FI will eventually blow when boost is applied for these very logical reasons : general wear and added stress. This engine has not been designed to withstand such additional forces.

He could baby the engine, but then what's the point of boost if you're not using it.

Much research needs to be done by OP before he can boost anyway.

 

[bluelights81]

So considering I build the internals of the motor up, is the AEM series 2 plug and play ECU an option? It does use the existing ECU. On their website, they list a part #30-6050. It's about $1440 which is pricey, but my question is, can it be done? And pass emissions? It claims to use all the stock sensors, and if that's the case, and everything is running okay once tuned professionally, there would be no CEL issues, which like I stated is an automatic failure.

 

[chaby_91]

So considering I build the internals of the motor up, is the AEM series 2 plug and play ECU an option?

Internals and ecu are entirely separate and don't affect each other. This is where tuning comes into play.

It does use the existing ECU.

No it doesn't. It replaces it. EMS stands for Eniging Management System. It is an ECU.

On their website, they list a part #30-6050. It's about $1440 which is pricey, but my question is, can it be done? And pass emissions?

EMS are expensive. My first post from this thread has a link to a website where they sell it for a bit less. Cars have a "list" of what should come out of the exhaust and how much. You will not be able to boost your engine and pass emissions. To do that, I suggest keeping the stock parts and install them when going to inspection. It really isn't hard and you can do it yourself with basic tools.

It claims to use all the stock sensors, and if that's the case, and everything is running okay once tuned professionally, there would be no CEL issues, which like I stated is an automatic failure.

I do not have personal experience on that subject, but iirc, I read somewhere that you won't have CEL problems. You might want to talk with NASOHC. He used this EMS with his build. Maybe he can take the time to answer your questions.

 

[cmgreensr]

I stand corrected, I looked at the poster directly above mine. Either way, there have been several members run low boost for long periods of time but of course, building before turbo is always the best option, not disputing that.

 

[AFAccord]