Nuke Rooster F/I engine build
- Thread starter Nuke_Rooster
- Start date
Nuke_Rooster
Member
just posted a little update*
couple more questions:
any high flow oil pumps for the f23?
also i still need some things if anyone has them for sale:
intercooler
wastegate
piping
obd1 parts (intake tps ecu etc)
couple more questions:
any high flow oil pumps for the f23?
also i still need some things if anyone has them for sale:
intercooler
wastegate
piping
obd1 parts (intake tps ecu etc)
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
Don't need any more flow than the stock pump, but it can be modified slightly and possibly improved a little. Check out Mark's blog entry here on how he filled in some of the extra cavities and smoothed the transitions like the D-series guys do.
BTW: Your TPS will work fine with an OBDI conversion. The only thing that you might want to make things easier is an adapter plate to mount an OBDI IACV on your manifold.
BTW: Your TPS will work fine with an OBDI conversion. The only thing that you might want to make things easier is an adapter plate to mount an OBDI IACV on your manifold.
Nuke_Rooster
Member
great stuff thank you sir.
now that im reading this i think im going with the balance shaft delete kit as well. at first i was skeptical but after some research seems like a worthwhile endeavor.
A part of me still feels that having the balancers is going to reduce crankshaft vibration. so if they are removed they might cause more unnecessary stress on the internals at high rpm.
how do you guys feel about it?
now that im reading this i think im going with the balance shaft delete kit as well. at first i was skeptical but after some research seems like a worthwhile endeavor.
A part of me still feels that having the balancers is going to reduce crankshaft vibration. so if they are removed they might cause more unnecessary stress on the internals at high rpm.
how do you guys feel about it?
Last edited:
Russianred
Snail Spools You!
I got some parts, I'll PM you.
I feel that removing the balance shafts is perfect. I also feel that a fluidampr or similar performance pulley should be used.. None of that billet aluminum crank pulley crap.
I feel that removing the balance shafts is perfect. I also feel that a fluidampr or similar performance pulley should be used.. None of that billet aluminum crank pulley crap.
AFAccord
Well-Known Member
The vibrations in the crank are different from the vibrations that the balance shafts counteract. How high do you intend to spin on stock rods anyway? I don't feel the need to spin the engine much higher than the stock redline with boost for two reasons.
1. The stock cam (and most regrinds) won't make power above the redline.
2. It's simple to increase the boost for more power versus the potential risks and wear from revving higher.
I never had any measurable rod stretch or bolt stretch revving mine to 7,000rpm daily, but I don't think there's any reason to spin higher than that with an F23 top and bottom end. That being said, I've seen nothing to indicate that the OEM crank dampener is insufficient for those rpm's. I've only heard of two F23 bottom ends with harmonics issues using an OEM dampener, and those had H22/F22 heads revving over 8k regularly. A fluidampr would be nice to have, but I personally don't feel there's any advantage to running one within our stock rpm range. If you're using a billet pulley, obviously you're asking for trouble.
