rear end problems???

[finch13]

But its not, its the 350 in the trunk.

You're really killing your options with not calling a company and only wanting to spend 200.

You're best bet is calling ground control or eibach and asking for a stock spring rate in the front and something like 300-400 lb./in. in the rear. You'll probably need good aftermarket shocks in the back though. So you're looking at probably $300 or so

 

[Fuzz]

I don't think you are going to like this answer, but this is the best one I can give.

Take some weight out. Build a new box, get rid of some subs, put the battery back in the front of the car (Btw, unless its a forklift battery, it only weights about 35 - 40lbs).

OEM Springs, and even aftermarket springs are designed to hold the weight of the vehicle. When you throw an extra 300 to 400lbs in the rear of the vehicle it causes the springs to compress more, therefore giving you the "sagging" look.

The reason why someone would have recommended coilovers is because of the ride-height adjustability of Coilovers. You would be able to set the front of the car an inch or two lower, while leaving the rears at stock height. With the sagging rear end it would make it look level.

Depending on the type of Coilover kit, you will have a problem doing this however. First, the stock shocks won't be able to take it, so you'll be forced to buy new shocks.. I recommend the Koni Yellows (Sports). Second reason: Depending on the type of kit, when you lower the front, it will lower it by loading / compressing the front spring This compression however is static, because it is adjusted like that. The rears however are going to be loaded because of the weight, but when the weight shifts, the load will change and the car will handle very very badly.

You could however get some Koni's and the Ground Control Coilovers, and order a stiffer spring in the rear than you have in the front. The stiffer spring will support more load.

All in all, there is no cheap and simple fix. You are looking at spending close to a thousand dollars in suspension, or 300 - 400$ if you "cheap out". You can't just wedge in those 5 dollar sping spacers either, because you will have to wedge in almost the full spring, which at that point you might as well just weld a solid bar instead of the spring.

BTW. I have subs in my car, I'm an audio nutjob and I do a ton of audio installs. You don't NEED 4 Subs of that size in your car to get good sound. Its pointless because you can only move so much air in the car at any given time. I've had 10s, I've had 12s, I've had 15s. I have 2 12"s right now, and the difference between my two 12s and my single 10" is almost nothinjg. The only reason I did it was so I could run different frequency ranges.

 

[michaellane]

I don't think you are going to like this answer, but this is the best one I can give.

Take some weight out. Build a new box, get rid of some subs, put the battery back in the front of the car (Btw, unless its a forklift battery, it only weights about 35 - 40lbs).

OEM Springs, and even aftermarket springs are designed to hold the weight of the vehicle. When you throw an extra 300 to 400lbs in the rear of the vehicle it causes the springs to compress more, therefore giving you the "sagging" look.

The reason why someone would have recommended coilovers is because of the ride-height adjustability of Coilovers. You would be able to set the front of the car an inch or two lower, while leaving the rears at stock height. With the sagging rear end it would make it look level.

Depending on the type of Coilover kit, you will have a problem doing this however. First, the stock shocks won't be able to take it, so you'll be forced to buy new shocks.. I recommend the Koni Yellows (Sports). Second reason: Depending on the type of kit, when you lower the front, it will lower it by loading / compressing the front spring This compression however is static, because it is adjusted like that. The rears however are going to be loaded because of the weight, but when the weight shifts, the load will change and the car will handle very very badly.

You could however get some Koni's and the Ground Control Coilovers, and order a stiffer spring in the rear than you have in the front. The stiffer spring will support more load.

All in all, there is no cheap and simple fix. You are looking at spending close to a thousand dollars in suspension, or 300 - 400$ if you "cheap out". You can't just wedge in those 5 dollar sping spacers either, because you will have to wedge in almost the full spring, which at that point you might as well just weld a solid bar instead of the spring.

BTW. I have subs in my car, I'm an audio nutjob and I do a ton of audio installs. You don't NEED 4 Subs of that size in your car to get good sound. Its pointless because you can only move so much air in the car at any given time. I've had 10s, I've had 12s, I've had 15s. I have 2 12"s right now, and the difference between my two 12s and my single 10" is almost nothinjg. The only reason I did it was so I could run different frequency ranges.

thanks for your input but yes the battery weighs 98pounds. it has enough reserve power for 3800 watts and a AH rating of 134 and to be honest if you switched from one 10 to two lower level 12's off the same amp you should have gained a few decibles period. i hit a 138.7 with my single 12 and now still using the same amp i am in the 140's with the 10's. my car has MORE than enough space to run these subs and actually i can run 6 of them just fine in a 8th order bandpass. i know my audio just fine i dont know anything about the car though...this is why i am on here and not caraudio.com





SO SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT! I HAVE 350LBS IN MY TRUNK AT ALL TIMES will getting a stiffer spring in only the rear work?

 

[michaellane]

But its not, its the 350 in the trunk.

You're really killing your options with not calling a company and only wanting to spend 200.

You're best bet is calling ground control or eibach and asking for a stock spring rate in the front and something like 300-400 lb./in. in the rear. You'll probably need good aftermarket shocks in the back though. So you're looking at probably $300 or so

do i have to switch out the front also??? i mean the front looks fine

 

[michaellane]

well first off im a noob...i dirve a 2002 honda accord ex V6 4 door.

in the back i notice some sagging due to the extra weight (350pounds to be exact) and maybe just old age of my car??? i have a few hundred pounds in the trunk at ALL TIMES (audio). so pretty much i just want to fix the sagging the safest and cheapest way possible. i dont race my car or anything like that. it is a daily driver and thats all. and the ride already kinda sucks i guess from the crap in the trunk. and yes its 350 pounds THIS IS THE CORRECT WEIGHT and i dont want to change my set up at this time...

some people have told me that i should get stiffer springs and that would fix it? and some people have told me to get coilovers? and some on here say to just get some new OEM springs??? i dont know which to get and why i would choose either one. any and all info would help out a ton!

thanks

 

[Fuzz]

SO SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT! I HAVE 350LBS IN MY TRUNK AT ALL TIMES will getting a stiffer spring in only the rear work?

Did you NOT Read the REST of my Post??

You are NOT going to get any better answer than that. Plain and simple, there is NO Cheap Way to Fix this. You spent thousands on audio, you have to be prepared to spend some money on Suspension. Read my post, spend some money.. problem fixed.

End of Discussion.

 

[michaellane]

well could i just buy the yellow koni shocks for the rear and coilovers for the rear and not touch the front or do i HAVE to do the front as well?

 

[SykVSyx]

You're using a V6 to deliver pizza!

I can understand if there is a time guarantee, you'd need the power to get you there!

Seriously though, if you don't plan on really modding the car, sure, get some OEM shocks/springs if need be.

Since you seem to have quite the system in it, then maybe upgrade to some aftermarket shocks/springs that won't give you too much of an aggressive drop if that's not the look you're going for.

 

[RedRyder]

I would be weary of having different suspension components between the front and rear. It is recommended that they are uniform.

 

[Fuzz]

When you replace suspension you do it in pairs.

When you CHANGE or MODIFY Suspension you do it ALL AT ONCE. Putting a Stupid Stiff Rear and Uber-Soft Stock Front is ASKING for a problem.