EscoStylez
Well-Known Member
This is amazing
Slap Happy (Fabrication Content)
- Thread starter MoneyPit
- Start date
Brad2274
Well-Known Member
so why did you just do tac welds not a full bead? i guess its probably strong enough but i think id want the full bead just to be sure
Fundillo
Well-Known Member
You have custom UCAs? Any pictures of what they look like?
Do you have any pictures/measurements of the cuts?
Do you have any pictures/measurements of the cuts?
hiddengamer7
Well-Known Member
He did do a full bead, he just didnt post pictures of it rough. Look at the final pictures, you can see the ground down full bead in them.
KnightRyder
Well-Known Member
in light of your recent mod, which im not sure if you've posted here or not, you could probably benefit from this big time to get that front down more.
Fundillo
Well-Known Member
exactly! hahah, i would like measurements on the cuts because this 3 inch hole helps, but not enough :/
LowerMyCG5
Well-Known Member
Sh.it i still get tapping and i have about a 3inch hole
SykVSyx
Well-Known Member
Well now, Jake.
I hope you patent this type of thing. Seems to meet you ha e some solid fab skills.
Looks fantastic.
Definately appreciate your innovation.
I hope you patent this type of thing. Seems to meet you ha e some solid fab skills.
Looks fantastic.
Definately appreciate your innovation.
Thank you!
When you're welding sheetmetal, you can't run a full bead or the metal will warp d/t to the extreme heat that a bead generates. To avoid warpage, the tack weld is placed and the metal is allowed to cool in-between tacks. Although I didn't post a final picture, before I grinded/glassed the tower, the tacks were completely continuous around the box, and tack strength = full bead strength at that point.
I have some pictures laying around somewhere, I'll dig 'em up. I basically bought a set of Chassis Tech pre-fab arms, but they were waaaaaaay to long, so I had to section the balljoint mounts in order to get them to fit under the tower. The end result is a beautiful custom arm that is very low profile with a fully adjustable balljoint integrated.
The section that I cut out of the tower was 4 3/4" wide at the apex, 5 3/4" wide at the base, and 4" long (basically the shape of the filler panel).
Since you're running the stock arms, I bet you are hitting the front of the strut tower after you cleared space for the top. There's almost zero room in that spot, so you should pull your wheel and take a look inside the strut tower to look for the contact location.
Haha, there's really nothing to patent, it's just a different approach to something that a bunch of people have already done. Thanks for the kind words though Derek.
