THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen accord!

retroshark

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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

since your motor is an obd2 model, i would recomend buying an obd1 prelude intake manifold. it will save you all teh trouble of having to convert an obd2 3-wire iacv to a 2-wire iacv. you will need to have an obd2-obd1 conversion harness and that should be all yuou need.
 

retroshark

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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

as far as i know, hondata will not work. it did not work on my car and i could never get the datalogging to work right.
 

retroshark

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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

Hondata can be used on OBD1 or OBD2...

Also, the OBD1 injectors are not needed. You never choose injectors based apon the "OBD1 equivalent car"...you choose the injectors based on the ECU of choice.

The P28 (which comes from a 92-95 Civic Si) uses Saturated Injectors. If you use Peak and Hold injectors (the ones with the Resistor Box), you run the risk of burning your injector drive circuitry in the ECU.

The reason for this is because of how the ECU uses electrical current to tell the different types of injectors, saturated vs peak and hold, to open:

A saturated injector is one thats full of voltage and has a fairly high resistance. The resistance value for this injector will usually be in the 7-14 ohm range. Because of the resistance is high in these injectors, very little current is used to open them.

A peak-and-hold injector is one that must be fed a signal of high current in order to quickly open to its maximum flow point, and then uses a slightly lower amount of current to hold it open. (This is what type most higher flowing injectors are.) These injectors usually have a current of 2 to 4 ohms.

When you have a saturated injector driver trying to drive a peak and hold injector (Like using a P28 to run OBD1 Accord Injectors), you will have several problems:
1) The saturated driver may not be able to generate enough current to even initially open the peak and hold injector reliably.
2)Even if it can open the peak and hold injector, the saturated driver will probably not be able to maintain enough current to keep the injector open for the full pulse width.
3) The saturated driver will try and maintain that high current full current for the full pulsewidth. In other words, it's trying to "peak" for the whole pulsewidth. It never drops off to the "hold" level.
4) The driver can damage itself by continuing to try to drive more current than it was ever designed to.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/2269/untitledpe3.png[/IMG]

Here is a good reference list to what type of injectors come from what car:
http://www.allmotorhonda.com/techpages/injector.htm



i use peak and hold injectors with a resister box with my p28. i drive the car daily, and have no fuel issues.
 

AFAccord

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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

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AFAccord

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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

A lot of this info is out-dated/inaccurate.
 

BadgerType

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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

then....mine updating info then
 

AFAccord

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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

then....mine updating info then

I'll probably put together a how-to soon. I don't want to undermine Retro's writeup, but my point is that I converted succesfully, without ANY of the following parts, which most people have calculated out to around $400.

retroshark said:
OBDI honda resistor box
OBDI injector clips that match your injectors
Injectors from an OBDI car (easiest i found was a set of DSM injectors)
OBD1 F22 Intake manifold, complete with all sensors
OBD1 IACV (if not included with manifold)
F22 Fuel rail for manifold
OBDI IACV plug from wiring harness
98-02 Accord Haynes manual
92-97 Accord Haynes manual (for refference)

I still have one very minor issue with a PWM circuit that I hope to figure out tonight, but it in no way affects the way the car drives.
 

JcL

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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

Hello!!!

But to turn an accord 6th to OBD1, is it necessary to change all that???

Does it do to itself entodos the F series or only in the F22, F23??? The mio is a F18B2.....

I only intuition that changing the ECU into an OBD1 and the harnnes already was quite I prove, not????


Regards and graces(thanks)
 

AFAccord

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Re: THE Ultimate, end-all guide to doing an OBDII to OBDI conversion on a 6th gen acc

Hello!!!

But to turn an accord 6th to OBD1, is it necessary to change all that???

Does it do to itself entodos the F series or only in the F22, F23??? The mio is a F18B2.....

I only intuition that changing the ECU into an OBD1 and the harnnes already was quite I prove, not????


Regards and graces(thanks)

My swap consisted of initially just swapping the ECU. You can get the car to idle fine by manually adjusting the throttle stop.

I eventually just purchased the Blacktrax IACV adapter plate and OBD1 IACV. Also, If you have a 2000-2002, you'll have to do some wiring to make the coolant gauge work. 2000+ uses a PWM to drive the gauge, whereas 99 and older use traditional steady state voltage like OBD1, so it those should work fine.

I'd imagine this would also pertain to your motor as well.
 
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