Time for a tune-up! I need the following!

[kn0x47]

3)my car springs are going bad. stock ones are getting bouncy

my car isnt yours...i know what i wanna and should replace..thats why i put no *****ing or moaning O_O!

 

[CanadianEh48]

haha word.

you need struts, not springs

 

[finch13]

Well its about time for me to tune up my car! i have the stock f23 four cylinder and will need the following

1)New/Refurb Alternator
2)New/Refurb Fuel Pump
3)Complete Coils (Please no generic brand shi* idc how much you will defend your $60 coils)
4)Temp. Sensor
5)New/Refurb IAVC
6)New/Refurb Radiator
7)Oxygen Sensor
8)New/Refurb Cat. Converter

OTHER RANDOM THINGS
1) Cluster
2) Leather Front Passanger Door panel...grey/tan
3)Power Passanger Seat! grey

plz no *****ing or moaning...just lemme know ur price.. Best if you were in socal area i am located in Long Beach.

since i must explain myself apparently..

1)My lights dim so easily...even when i just signal a turn..dont wanna pay autozone 300 for a new one...dont feel like servicing my own
2)Having cold starts
3)my car springs are going bad. stock ones are getting bouncy
4)my **** is out..wont go up on cluster
5)rather get a new one
6)leaks a little...sealed it...feel more comfortable with a new one
7)guess what...yea i got a CEL
8)also throwing out a CEL

my car isnt yours...i know what i wanna and should replace..thats why i put no *****ing or moaning O_O!

We're only trying to help you save money, clearly you are misguided.

1. Because you're lights are dim, you think the alternator is junk? Have you verified it's charging? Sounds more like a battery issue since the alternator is only there to keep the battery fully charged, not power your goddamn car.

2. Again, if the pump is making noise it's working. Ruptured diaphragms and/or weak springs in fuel pressure regulator cause hard starting.

3. Springs maintain ride height, shocks & struts control the bounce.

4. Drive to Honda, spend $30 for new, OEM sending unit. Done. No one is selling that kind of **** on here because that's just pain stupid.

5. It's the same amount of work to remove and clean the IACV vs. installing a new one. Save yourself some money. Never heard of them failing on the F23, but they sure do like to clog.

6. Again, go to Napa and spend $100 on a new radiator. People aren't going to sell their used radiators on here because... they're junk and not worth the hassle.

7. Call up Denso and get their part number (different than Honda's) and buy one on eBay. Just like buying OEM, but not through the dealer.

8. P0420? Grab a pair of 18mm spark plug defouler/non-fouler's made by "HELP!" at Napa or any parts store (DIY on here). They're usually in the random **** aisle. The P0420 just indicates that the cat is just out of the computers range of efficiency. Likely only to be ~100 ppm over limit. Obviously, if your state has tailpipe emissions testing, opt for the new cat.

 

[LX_F23A1]

We're only trying to help you save money, clearly you are misguided.

1. Because you're lights are dim, you think the alternator is junk? Have you verified it's charging? Sounds more like a battery issue since the alternator is only there to keep the battery fully charged, not power your goddamn car.

2. Again, if the pump is making noise it's working. Ruptured diaphragms and/or weak springs in fuel pressure regulator cause hard starting.

3. Springs maintain ride height, shocks & struts control the bounce.

4. Drive to Honda, spend $30 for new, OEM sending unit. Done. No one is selling that kind of **** on here because that's just pain stupid.

5. It's the same amount of work to remove and clean the IACV vs. installing a new one. Save yourself some money. Never heard of them failing on the F23, but they sure do like to clog.

6. Again, go to Napa and spend $100 on a new radiator. People aren't going to sell their used radiators on here because... they're junk and not worth the hassle.

7. Call up Denso and get their part number (different than Honda's) and buy one on eBay. Just like buying OEM, but not through the dealer.

8. P0420? Grab a pair of 18mm spark plug defouler/non-fouler's made by "HELP!" at Napa or any parts store (DIY on here). They're usually in the random **** aisle. The P0420 just indicates that the cat is just out of the computers range of efficiency. Likely only to be ~100 ppm over limit. Obviously, if your state has tailpipe emissions testing, opt for the new cat.

wise words from the god of 6ga

 

[dwn2thalastroac]

We're only trying to help you save money, clearly you are misguided.

1. Because you're lights are dim, you think the alternator is junk? Have you verified it's charging? Sounds more like a battery issue since the alternator is only there to keep the battery fully charged, not power your goddamn car.

2. Again, if the pump is making noise it's working. Ruptured diaphragms and/or weak springs in fuel pressure regulator cause hard starting.

3. Springs maintain ride height, shocks & struts control the bounce.

4. Drive to Honda, spend $30 for new, OEM sending unit. Done. No one is selling that kind of **** on here because that's just pain stupid.

5. It's the same amount of work to remove and clean the IACV vs. installing a new one. Save yourself some money. Never heard of them failing on the F23, but they sure do like to clog.

6. Again, go to Napa and spend $100 on a new radiator. People aren't going to sell their used radiators on here because... they're junk and not worth the hassle.

7. Call up Denso and get their part number (different than Honda's) and buy one on eBay. Just like buying OEM, but not through the dealer.

8. P0420? Grab a pair of 18mm spark plug defouler/non-fouler's made by "HELP!" at Napa or any parts store (DIY on here). They're usually in the random **** aisle. The P0420 just indicates that the cat is just out of the computers range of efficiency. Likely only to be ~100 ppm over limit. Obviously, if your state has tailpipe emissions testing, opt for the new cat.

1. I replaced the battery...yet it is not holding a constant charge...figured it wuld be the alternator.

2. Recommended from my mech..

3. yea i mixed the two up..thought id hit two birds with one stone

4. went to autozone..said they have one for 119. guess they tried to play me -_-

5. I hate reaching my damn hand back there i broke my right hand so its :icon_gay: no not gay..fuked up

6. i was thinkin someone would have a new one..on here to sale for cheaper...hence why i had it say new

7. same with temp sensor...

8. Yes we have that testing...fck smog test! im in cali

THNX for the advice though finch

 

[dwn2thalastroac]

a alternator does not cost $300. i got a 90 somethin amp for $80 from autozone

check it out

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...DisplayName=External+Engine&_requestid=111184

i would love to go to your autozone ;]

 

[finch13]

1. I replaced the battery...yet it is not holding a constant charge...figured it wuld be the alternator.

2. Recommended from my mech..

3. yea i mixed the two up..thought id hit two birds with one stone

4. went to autozone..said they have one for 119. guess they tried to play me -_-

5. I hate reaching my damn hand back there i broke my right hand so its :icon_gay: no not gay..fuked up

6. i was thinkin someone would have a new one..on here to sale for cheaper...hence why i had it say new

7. same with temp sensor...

8. Yes we have that testing...fck smog test! im in cali

1. Could be a parasitic draw on the battery when the car is off. Any electrical accesories you have hooked up that might not be wired properly. Basically, stick the leads of multimeter between the positive battery cable and the positive battery terminal while the keys are out of the ignition, doors closed, etc. A draw of more than ~50mA would be considered excess. Alternator should charge between 14.2-14.6V when car is on (measure between battery terminals) and battery voltage (healthy, charged battery) should be 12.0-12.4V with engine off.

2. I still think a fuel pressure regulator would cure the problem. If it's only cold starts where you have issues, it all points to this. Fuel pumps usually fail during all kinds of driving situations.

3. No need to replace springs if there's nothing wrong with 'em. Might as well put the money towards something else.

4. The engine coolant temperature sensor might be a bit more spendy. There are 2 sensors right next to each other on the passenger side of the cylinder head: an engine coolant temperature sensor that feeds the ECU and a temperature sending unit that feeds the gauge. I paid $20 for an aftermarket one, it should be around $30 from the dealer.

5. You'd have to reach back there either way. It's almost easier to just remove the upper intake plenum and give it all a good scrubbing. Might even be a DIY on here.

6. I don't think I've ever seen a radiator for sale on here, doesn't hurt to try though.

7. I'd make sure it's a Denso O2 sensor. Most parts stores carry Bosch ones and Bosch sucks for everything except relays.

8. Definitely go with a new cat then.

 

[dwn2thalastroac]

1. Could be a parasitic draw on the battery when the car is off. Any electrical accesories you have hooked up that might not be wired properly. Basically, stick the leads of multimeter between the positive battery cable and the positive battery terminal while the keys are out of the ignition, doors closed, etc. A draw of more than ~50mA would be considered excess. Alternator should charge between 14.2-14.6V when car is on (measure between battery terminals) and battery voltage (healthy, charged battery) should be 12.0-12.4V with engine off.

2. I still think a fuel pressure regulator would cure the problem. If it's only cold starts where you have issues, it all points to this. Fuel pumps usually fail during all kinds of driving situations.

3. No need to replace springs if there's nothing wrong with 'em. Might as well put the money towards something else.

4. The engine coolant temperature sensor might be a bit more spendy. There are 2 sensors right next to each other on the passenger side of the cylinder head: an engine coolant temperature sensor that feeds the ECU and a temperature sending unit that feeds the gauge. I paid $20 for an aftermarket one, it should be around $30 from the dealer.

5. You'd have to reach back there either way. It's almost easier to just remove the upper intake plenum and give it all a good scrubbing. Might even be a DIY on here.

6. I don't think I've ever seen a radiator for sale on here, doesn't hurt to try though.

7. I'd make sure it's a Denso O2 sensor. Most parts stores carry Bosch ones and Bosch sucks for everything except relays.

8. Definitely go with a new cat then.

sounds like a plan my man, thanks for the suggestions. I hate going to autozone nowadays...always try to get u to buy some random things when u check out -____-

and a bukkake for you trash talkers

 

[finch13]

No problem. We're here to help/save you some money!

All you guys got cum on your faces! Ha!

 

[f23accord2000]

i paid 13 bucks for a temp sensor at napa get a new one!!!!!!!