Tire wear *Updated 12/12 w/ pics PAGE 2

[RedRyder]

Re: Tire wear

Finally got around to poking around the suspension on the front. Everything looks be in order, except for this bushing. Could this be the problem? I can rotate the bar easily with my hand. And can just the bushing be replaced, or the whole assembly?

Driver side:

Passenger side (not quite as bad):

I also noticed the very inside of the front driver side tire was worn much more than anywhere else. The tread looked normal, just the inner most treadline closest to the sidewall seemed to be more heavily worn. Same on the passenger side, but not as bad.

I am pretty positive it is not the shocks, I increased the damping stiffness a month or so ago and it’s been tight and handles nicely.

 

[kn0x47]

yeah those need to be replaced. you'll have to replace that whole arm. its really easy to do yourself. just make sure you mark the point where that arm is screwed to. you'll have to get an alignment afterwards..

 

[001Stunna]

Thats your tie-rod, also what can affect your toe(in/out). So if the ball-joint on there is loose then it could justify the woobly feeling, and the irregular wear. I would say replace them both as they're not that expensive and you'll need to get an alignment after anyz.

Better then doing one, getting an alignment only to do the other one later on and get an alignment again.

 

[RedRyder]

Thanks for the replies guys, it would be great if this did get rid of both issues.

I will be replacing this on both sides, but do I replace the inner/outter tie rods, or just the outers? I’m guessing it’s #8 in this diagram, but what I see from TAS looks different…

Majestic:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...+(V6)&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FRONT+LOWER+ARM


TAS:
Inner (same both sides?): http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=2853541
Right Outer: http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=2853541
Left Outer: http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=2853561

TAS has two Left Outers, ^that one and this one: http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=6371178

I’ll take a look at my Haynes manual after work.

just make sure you mark the point where that arm is screwed to.

What did you mean by this, Jon?

 

[001Stunna]

You need to replace the outer tie rods.

#10 #12

10 53540-S84-A01 END, R. TIE ROD
12 53560-S84-A01 END, L. TIE ROD


...check your upper and lower ball joints while you're at it just in case.


Also what kn0x47 meant is that if you're doing this yourself; count how many turns it takes to spin the old one off and/or make a mark where the current outer tie rod locks. That way when you put the new one in it'll be roughly the same as the old one and your toe will not be all over the place while you drive to the alignment place.

From TASAUTO you can buy their generic brand
http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=6371177&d=1220&p=1
http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=6371178&d=1220&p=1

or OEM brand
http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=2853561&d=1220&p=1
http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=2853541&d=1220&p=1


VIDEO if you are DIY'ing

 

[RedRyder]

Thanks for the replies, guys. Read over this in my Haynes manual and got the feel for it.

I have been feeling pretty under the weather since the 26th, and it's cold outside and I have no garage, so I will be taking my car somewhere to get this done since I want it done sooner than later. Dealer quoted ~$400 to do it, Tire Discounters quoted $230 so I think I'll go with them.

If I added in lower ball joints, TD said it would be $194 per side (parts & labor) to do it, so total for ball joints and tie rod replacement would be around $645. Does that sound reasonable?

 

[001Stunna]

Thanks for the replies, guys. Read over this in my Haynes manual and got the feel for it.

I have been feeling pretty under the weather since the 26th, and it's cold outside and I have no garage, so I will be taking my car somewhere to get this done since I want it done sooner than later. Dealer quoted ~$400 to do it, Tire Discounters quoted $230 so I think I'll go with them.

If I added in lower ball joints, TD said it would be $194 per side (parts & labor) to do it, so total for ball joints and tie rod replacement would be around $645. Does that sound reasonable?

You were quoted $230 for 2x OEM Tierods and labor?
When i did my tie rods and upper arms(using my parts) i paid $70 labor + 80$ for 4 wheel alignment. If your quote includes alignment then yea its worth it, if not...they seem to have a tad high labor rate. It also depends if they go by the book rate though or "how long" it takes them rate.

However from what i can tell, the "shop" rate for tierods is 2hrs for both sides, and the lower balljoints are valued at 3.5hrs for both sides

 

[RedRyder]

^Yeah, ~$230 total for tie rod work. Breaks down like this...$59.29 per tie rod so $118.58 in parts. They have labor as 30 minutes per side so $85 for 1 hour of labor...this comes to $203.58. Then tax and supplies added in brings the total to $229.82.

I feel okay with the price for replacing the tie rods, just not sure about the ball joints. What are the signs of them going bad, or are there warnings?

 

[001Stunna]

^Yeah, ~$230 total for tie rod work. Breaks down like this...$59.29 per tie rod so $118.58 in parts. They have labor as 30 minutes per side so $85 for 1 hour of labor...this comes to $203.58. Then tax and supplies added in brings the total to $229.82.

I feel okay with the price for replacing the tie rods, just not sure about the ball joints. What are the signs of them going bad, or are there warnings?

ahh touche, forgot to think about possible taxes.
As for the lower balljoints, i usually check mine once a month using the 12/6 and 9/3 test for the tierods. A shop usually will use a prybar to check for free play. If doing the above, and making sure the boot isnt torn or grease leaking then they might be good still.

Crazy enough I'm at 230xxxkm with the original ball joints as far as I can tell, and i even have 2 new OEM ones waiting to go on but everytime i've checked them they still feel nice and tight.

 

[RedRyder]

^Gotcha. So jack up the car and push/pull with my hands at 12/6 and 9/3 and if there's no play then chances are the ball joints are still good. I'll have the shop test it too, but I feel like they'll just advise to replace them regardless, lol. Though I've had good experiences with TD.

I did have a torn cv boot a year or two back on the driver side, but had it replaced before winter so no salt, etc got inside. Guessing that's unrelated to this though.