Valve adjustment question

[finch13]

There will be some tick... the adjustment specs are designed around thermal expansion of the rocker tappet and the valve stem, plus enough clearance at operating temperature and top dead center to make sure the valve will always fully close.

Assuming the valve guides are in decent shape, there shouldn't be a whole lot of wear on the valve seat. None of my Hondas have ever had valve lash that was tighter than spec and the jam nut on the rocker has been the only thing to tighten up over time.

 

[RichBinAZ]

So the video is of a 4 cylinder, but you say your V6 sounds the same. Also, where you had the camera resting at the beginning, I thought I could see a loose nut on that car... but perhaps it isn't your car so it doesn't matter.

My V6 started to make a slight valve ticking noise at around 40-50K miles. "The book" says don't adjust till 105K miles, unless they are making noise. Well "the book" IS WRONG.

The V6 engine is a screw and locknut design, not hydraulic lifters, not shim over or under bucket designs. These need to be adjusted about every 10 K untill they settle down. But adjustment is free as long as you do the labor.

The first adjustment I did they were all loose, some over .020 loose. The 2nd adjustment 10K miles later I needed to adjust 1/2 of them again. and the third adjust another 10K later, just 1 set were still out. So yes, go ahead and adjust them. Go easy on removing the plastic covers and grease the grommet holes before putting them back on. I had 1 grommet pin snap off.

I used a thin coating of RTV on the metal intake manifold gasket (find 2) to re-seal it, that way I didn't have to replace that part. Majestic shows the list price at $15, but sells for $11 + shipping. Local dealers charge about 10-15% above MSRP so expect to pay $20 for that gasket if you want to replace it.

The valves in the back are a pain to get to, (hurts my knees anyway) but just be patient and do them. Unbolt that bracket for the big hose. It helps.

Rich