What'd you do to your accord today?

[HondaLuver83]

Wider bearing clearances are more of a result of engine wear than oil viscosity, but thicker oil does kinda help speed up that process. Thicker oil can be used on old tired engine with low oil pressure.


If I were you, I would take the engine out, take the block to a machine shop and have them install new piston rings and hone the block. Have them check bearing clearances before the rebuild to determine how healthy your bottom end is. Should be fine, unless you ran out of oil before or low on oil.

Im not sure why your rings are bad, could be from your oil change habits. Usually hondas can go 200,000+ before any real oil burning occures. The bearing clearances hold up quiet well I've seen with older hondas during a rebuild.


I have a 87 nissan pickup with almost 300,000 miles on the original head and block. It didnt even smoke and only burned about 1/2qrt of oil every 4k. I bought it from the original owner who only used mobile 1 10w30, so I did the same and changed my oil about every 4-5k. Truck didnt even smoke, I kinda regret selling it. But it does prove, frequent oil changes, or using synthetic is a great way to protect your engine.

 

[DrOwZee]

i smiled at her and tried not to think about buying new rims

 

[9450erick]

Wider bearing clearances are more of a result of engine wear than oil viscosity, but thicker oil does kinda help speed up that process. Thicker oil can be used on old tired engine with low oil pressure.


If I were you, I would take the engine out, take the block to a machine shop and have them install new piston rings and hone the block. Have them check bearing clearances before the rebuild to determine how healthy your bottom end is. Should be fine, unless you ran out of oil before or low on oil.

Im not sure why your rings are bad, could be from your oil change habits. Usually hondas can go 200,000+ before any real oil burning occures. The bearing clearances hold up quiet well I've seen with older hondas during a rebuild.


I have a 87 nissan pickup with almost 300,000 miles on the original head and block. It didnt even smoke and only burned about 1/2qrt of oil every 4k. I bought it from the original owner who only used mobile 1 10w30, so I did the same and changed my oil about every 4-5k. Truck didnt even smoke, I kinda regret selling it. But it does prove, frequent oil changes, or using synthetic is a great way to protect your engine.

exactly i ran out of oil once
i had barely got the car frm it sitting in the garage for bout 4years, with auto tranny slipping. had to do schedule maintance/ all fluids/ got a great deal @ dealership for all that stuff. 1 month after i had everything done i decide to check ma oil level with the dipstick. NOTHING!!!!!! i put the dipstick in about 4 times just to make sure my eyes werent tricking me. drove the car to the nearest autoparts store nd purchased wat i thought was the best motor oil(royal purple) bought 2 quarts nd i barely made it, to top off on oil. went home jacked the car to find a leak in the frm the drain plug not being tight enough. ever since then iv been burning oil. i will never, ever let the dealership touch ma car ever again. they just cant be trusted. wat should i be looking @ in terms of damage to the bottom end?
alot of ppl say that our bearing are the strongest part of our motors/ but our rings are the weakest part

 

[HondaLuver83]

exactly i ran out of oil once
i had barely got the car frm it sitting in the garage for bout 4years, with auto tranny slipping. had to do schedule maintance/ all fluids/ got a great deal @ dealership for all that stuff. 1 month after i had everything done i decide to check ma oil level with the dipstick. NOTHING!!!!!! i put the dipstick in about 4 times just to make sure my eyes werent tricking me. drove the car to the nearest autoparts store nd purchased wat i thought was the best motor oil(royal purple) bought 2 quarts nd i barely made it, to top off on oil. went home jacked the car to find a leak in the frm the drain plug not being tight enough. ever since then iv been burning oil. i will never, ever let the dealership touch ma car ever again. they just cant be trusted. wat should i be looking @ in terms of damage to the bottom end?
alot of ppl say that our bearing are the strongest part of our motors/ but our rings are the weakest part

The dipstick has two marks, the top one for full and the lower mark. The car is not starved of oil until the oil line reaches below that lower dot.

Its about 1qrt difference between the lower and upper dot. You said you needed 2 to raise it to the top mark, which means you starved the car of oil by 1 qrt.

In all honesty, I would just toss the engine. If you ever replace the engine in the future, take the old one apart just for kicks. You might be able to salvage the head, have a machine shop measure bearing clearance at the cam shaft and caps.

I would probably just keep running a thick oil until the engine finally decides to die, you may be able to get a lot more usuable miles out of it. But I would keep a look out for a cheap long block until then.


long block are pretty cheap for our car. You could just transfer everything over to the new one, or buy a used engine with everything in it already and offset the cost by selling every single salvageable part inside and out of your old motor.



Its a good habit to check your oil level before starting after your car has sat extended periods of time, and its even better to pour1/2qrt through your engine before starting and then doing and oil change once its warmed up.


Your oil light should have indicated a drop in oil pressure being that low on oil. Its the red light on the lower left of ur cluster.

 

[9450erick]

The dipstick has two marks, the top one for full and the lower mark. The car is not starved of oil until the oil line reaches below that lower dot.

Its about 1qrt difference between the lower and upper dot. You said you needed 2 to raise it to the top mark, which means you starved the car of oil by 1 qrt.

In all honesty, I would just toss the engine. If you ever replace the engine in the future, take the old one apart just for kicks. You might be able to salvage the head, have a machine shop measure bearing clearance at the cam shaft and caps.

I would probably just keep running a thick oil until the engine finally decides to die, you may be able to get a lot more usuable miles out of it. But I would keep a look out for a cheap long block until then.


long block are pretty cheap for our car. You could just transfer everything over to the new one, or buy a used engine with everything in it already and offset the cost by selling every single salvageable part inside and out of your old motor.

it still runs great though. no vibrating, really steady.
i dont want to tear it down until i have the money to rebuild the whole bottom end with new aftermarket pistons for boost.
should i do a compresion test to see where it stands/ i know i wont know the full effects of starving the engine until i tear i down nd check everysingle thing but that will tell def give me an idea if the motor is healthy

 

[2001V6Coupe]

Post pix if you have them. Small little things...even a wash...whatever you want.


A couple days ago I had to remove my front window tint because of the ticket I got. I only paid $35 and I removed it myself with a hand held steamer.

Downgrade FTL!

$35 for an 8% tint? You got off good. Statey hit me up for $250 for mine. Just curious. Did the cop make you remove them or did you make that decision yourself?

 

[hondachik]

Morimoto hid retro-fit on jwong512's car

and removed jwong's amber tail corners

I'm really feeling that, it looks really really nice. I wish I had someone that lived in my area to help me do something like that.

i used it cause i have a blown ring(mayb more), which is causing me to buy motor oil every other week
well according to ma dad, nd the dude frm pepboys a lil thicker might help it from not burning that much
this is my 1st time using 10w40 so probably next oil change i will do 10w30/ always been using 10w30

Same here. It seemed that when I used the thicker oil such as 10w40, it did leak out slower. The oil used to be so bad that it was leaking out maybe 2 or 3 quarts a day, but now I can get 5 quarts to last me maybe a month now. However I told my BF that the oil has been leaking in my car since I got it, however I never paid attention to it because it was a slow leak, and I would still get regular oil changes.

However a month or two ago it was leaking out as fast as I stated. So now I'm worried on if I get another oil change (since it's back leaking slow again), if that will help? Or he says the filter is prob just clogged up now. I've always used Fram filters on this car and Castrol High Mileage 5w30 oil. I think this last change I used synthetic, and I don't know if that's what did the seal a little worse for me?

The seal I need is only like $30 (from what I hear), but it's the labor I hear that is going to kill me. The only reason I found out the seal was leaking so bad recently is that I would try to engage VTEC, and the car would sputter and almost cut off...then the check engine light came on. Now the check engine light has went off by itself, but the maintenance light is on (indicating oil change). Whereas when the CEL first came on, it wasn't. But it still leaks, just slowly. & I have about another mth until I'm able to get it fixed.

went outside my house to look for my honda, wasnt there and went back in the house.

Lol. Did you call for it? Maybe if you yell out that you have new parts it'll come back home.

that will work, but it wont really hold up long. thicker oil will compensate it for a while till the bearing clearance widen up for more thicker oil.

I thought soo....



@HondaLuver83...

I got a ticket in maybe March for my tint being 5% and I caught a $145 ticket so you are lucky. I wasn't required to take the tint off, and I just paid the ticket before my court date. I'm assuming he was just being a d*ck by trying to get quota and pull me over for SOMETHING (because my radar detector let me know of his radar) since he couldn't get me for speeding. To this day, I still have it on, and I'm promising you that he's seen this but hasn't said anything yet. *knocks on wood*

 

[CanadianEh48]

removed stock 17mm hollow RSB and endlinks in preparation for the 20mm solid and Moog endlinks.

picked up the last parts i need for my retro!

 

[NashvegasCG]

hondachik, if you were going through 2-3 quarts a day: approx $22. after the first day that car would have been to the mechanic. this is obviously not a slow leak. you probably could have saved your money and had your issue fixed. you do realize that you spend(t) $631 a month on oil if this was true. geez. time to break out the bicycle. Filter clogged.. not likely, sythetic having negative effects, even less likely. hopefully you will continue to use synthetic now that you've started. some people go back and forth.. which i feel is a bad idea... some believe that it doesnt matter and will tell you to do that.

 

[HondaLuver83]

$35 for an 8% tint? You got off good. Statey hit me up for $250 for mine. Just curious. Did the cop make you remove them or did you make that decision yourself?

it still runs great though. no vibrating, really steady.
i dont want to tear it down until i have the money to rebuild the whole bottom end with new aftermarket pistons for boost.
should i do a compresion test to see where it stands/ i know i wont know the full effects of starving the engine until i tear i down nd check everysingle thing but that will tell def give me an idea if the motor is healthy

eh, to be honest. I wouldnt do anything with that engine. Have you ever torn an engine apart? You have bearings on your crankshaft that the piston rods attach to. They have very tight tolerances, running out of oil ruins the surface on the bearings and the crankshaft itself. Your head has the camshaft, and bearings are built into the head and there is caps over them holding down the cam. Those are probably damaged too. Sure you can get everything polished and balanced again, but that cost money.

Your car can seem to be running fine, absolutely does not mean everything is fine. I bought a car from the auction with a blown engine, no average joe would have known it, since im honest, I just sent it back because I dont want to sell anyone that junk. It had a rod knock only heard under load and with a keen ear. Compression was still great, didnt burn oil either...but I bet oil pressure was beyond the service limit.

Your better off buying a used engine in good condition and use that to do a turbo build. Like I said earilier, keep using the thick oil if it helps and keep driving the car easy. It still probably has some service life left.