Car isn't starting after storage!

juiCyyaccOrd

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So before I stored the car, I was having a problem with the starting issues.
It drives but every time I turn off the car, I wouldn't be able to turn it on again. So I would have to boost everywhere I went. With that being said, I just stored it and fix the problem later (which is now) lol.

We thought it was the ground, so we re-did the grounding, and it's still not charging properly. Still have to boost every time we need it on. Trickle charged and everything. It's a brand new battery...could it be the alternator?

Any feedback would help, thanks!
 

Brad2274

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yeah it could be the alternator, but i would narrow things down first and do a full overnight charge on the battery.
i had the same problem and had a newer battery, brought it in and it was like half charged, and the alternator isnt made to charge a low battery up to full, only to keep it charged up, so that's why i thought it was the alternator.
but my alternator was acting a little funky so i bought a j35 alternator for $45 because i wanted to upgrade anyways(used j30 one as core :lawl: he didnt notice) after a full battery charge i havent had a problem since
 

RedRyder

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So it does crank? And it's not fuel related. I'd do what Brad said and see where that gets you.
 

SykVSyx

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Judy,

I would look in to getting a J35 alternator.

If you get it from Standard Auto, it comes with a life time warranty.
 

FNCONE

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Sounds like a parasitic draw. New battery and does not start? Please try these steps
(multimeter needed)

When you got your new battery did it at least start once or twice? Then overnight you needed a jump start? Or did it not even want to start with a new battery?
If it started at least once with your new battery then overnight died try these steps,...

FIRST rule out the alternator is charging. Jump the car if needed and check the voltage at the battery should be a good 14v. (shut off car after a few minutes let the battery charge and remove positive terminal)

Second make sure the wire going from the alternator to the fuse box is tight also from the fuse box to the positive is tight.

Make sure the battery terminals are CLEAN and the starter wires are not corroded.
(which should be fine because with a jump your car starts, I believe it might be a draw like mine had)

These 2 steps are with the car off.

1. Disconnect the positive from the battery. Check how many volts the battery has. Hopefully it is around 9 on your battery.

2. Now check for voltage with the positive on. Does the voltage drop? Like from 9v to 4v? WITH the car off!!. (remove Positive) If it does, start pulling fuses from the engine bay fuse box. If you pull a fuse and it still drops but it back in and try another. I would begin with the fuse IGN. ( I had a similar issue) Once it doesn't drop (from 9v to 8v is fine, 9v to 3v is NOT) You have found the parasitic circuit draining the battery. If it does end up being the ignition fuse, I might have your solution. (took me hours to find and once I got alldata I found the *****)

Let me know how those steps go.

***Obviously these steps are assuming your swap and charging system are ok. (Which I think they are, I believe its a draw) Remember diagnosing electrical is not easy or fun, Online makes it even more tedious. Not being able to be at the car or wires makes it a guessing game for all. I'am not a mechanic but I'am an electrician. This is just my advice***
LOL
 

Jimsun

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Follow these steps and write it down on paper.
Steps.

1. Measure the battery voltage via the (-) and (+) terminals with a Digital Multi Metre (DMM). What's the Voltage?

2. Boost the car. So the engine is running.

3. Get the DMM and measure the voltage across the battery terminals again. Is the voltage higher or lower than step 1?

4. Rev the car to a higher RPM than idle (2-3K RPM). What's the voltage? Did it peak? ie. won't go higher than a certain voltage?

5. Turn the car off. And monitor the voltage of the battery. Write it down. 5 mins later, What's the voltage? Was there a significant change?

6. Measure the voltage again. Write down the voltage and start the car. Did it start? If not, whats the voltage?

Post it and let us know what the numbers are.
 

juiCyyaccOrd

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yeah it could be the alternator, but i would narrow things down first and do a full overnight charge on the battery.
i had the same problem and had a newer battery, brought it in and it was like half charged, and the alternator isnt made to charge a low battery up to full, only to keep it charged up, so that's why i thought it was the alternator.
but my alternator was acting a little funky so i bought a j35 alternator for $45 because i wanted to upgrade anyways(used j30 one as core :lawl: he didnt notice) after a full battery charge i havent had a problem since

voltage test, wheres it start, wheres it stop

So it does crank? And it's not fuel related. I'd do what Brad said and see where that gets you.

Judy,

I would look in to getting a J35 alternator.

If you get it from Standard Auto, it comes with a life time warranty.

Sounds like a parasitic draw. New battery and does not start? Please try these steps
(multimeter needed)

When you got your new battery did it at least start once or twice? Then overnight you needed a jump start? Or did it not even want to start with a new battery?
If it started at least once with your new battery then overnight died try these steps,...

FIRST rule out the alternator is charging. Jump the car if needed and check the voltage at the battery should be a good 14v. (shut off car after a few minutes let the battery charge and remove positive terminal)

Second make sure the wire going from the alternator to the fuse box is tight also from the fuse box to the positive is tight.

Make sure the battery terminals are CLEAN and the starter wires are not corroded.
(which should be fine because with a jump your car starts, I believe it might be a draw like mine had)

These 2 steps are with the car off.

1. Disconnect the positive from the battery. Check how many volts the battery has. Hopefully it is around 9 on your battery.

2. Now check for voltage with the positive on. Does the voltage drop? Like from 9v to 4v? WITH the car off!!. (remove Positive) If it does, start pulling fuses from the engine bay fuse box. If you pull a fuse and it still drops but it back in and try another. I would begin with the fuse IGN. ( I had a similar issue) Once it doesn't drop (from 9v to 8v is fine, 9v to 3v is NOT) You have found the parasitic circuit draining the battery. If it does end up being the ignition fuse, I might have your solution. (took me hours to find and once I got alldata I found the *****)

Let me know how those steps go.

***Obviously these steps are assuming your swap and charging system are ok. (Which I think they are, I believe its a draw) Remember diagnosing electrical is not easy or fun, Online makes it even more tedious. Not being able to be at the car or wires makes it a guessing game for all. I'am not a mechanic but I'am an electrician. This is just my advice***
LOL

Follow these steps and write it down on paper.
Steps.

1. Measure the battery voltage via the (-) and (+) terminals with a Digital Multi Metre (DMM). What's the Voltage?

2. Boost the car. So the engine is running.

3. Get the DMM and measure the voltage across the battery terminals again. Is the voltage higher or lower than step 1?

4. Rev the car to a higher RPM than idle (2-3K RPM). What's the voltage? Did it peak? ie. won't go higher than a certain voltage?

5. Turn the car off. And monitor the voltage of the battery. Write it down. 5 mins later, What's the voltage? Was there a significant change?

6. Measure the voltage again. Write down the voltage and start the car. Did it start? If not, whats the voltage?

Post it and let us know what the numbers are.

thanks for all the help guys!

turns out my battery was garbage...the voltage was dropping...i guess after storage my battery died even with the trickle charge.

so i replaced the battery and now it's all good again.
 

danmccormick87

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Glad to hear your CG is up and running! Batteries tend to be either a hit or miss here lately, guess production isn't what it used to be.
 

RichBinAZ

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Some trickle chargers don't really work. Had a problem with my sons bike battery, the trickle charger said all was good, but the bike acted like the battery was bad.
Put it on a proper charger in the 2 amp range (bit high for a bike battery, but it auto reduces) and it worked again, held a charge etc.
With the price of batteries spiraling out of sight, it's worth having a decent charger.
 
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